Trying to remove water adapter from intake manifold


(Robert Wilkinson) #46

Has anyone mentioned tapping the existing hole to fit a smaller barb? Could cut it flush with the flange using a Dremel abrasive disk, select the most appropriate tap size, then drill for that tap. Find a brass barb with the appropriate threads ahead of time. Threads can be tapered or, using a sealing washer, straight. Knowing the existing external threads (3/8 BSPP?) you can determine ahead of time what might work–a diameter between their minor diameter and the i.d. of the existing water adapter. Reduced flow but probably not any concern. IMHO, probably stupid idea.


(Erica Moss) #47

Bob, anything that won’t snake up is fine. I like the permatex Teflon sealant in a tube. I also like that old fashioned “Indian head” varnish. Put it on the fitting threads and also on both sides of the copper washer. Just put it on the last several threads since it pokes into the sump part way.

You could also JB it in but that’s a little extreme.


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #48

So here’s a bit of an update. I have the manifold sitting vertical, with the adapter on top. Every few hours I’ve been heating the manifold with my map gas torch at bit, then squirting in some penetrating oil where the copper gasket use to be. I’m hoping the repeating heating will both expand the aluminum around the fitting, and thin the oil, with the combination of those allowing gravity to pull the oil down into the threads.

I also made a run to HD and bought a 12 point std socket and a 6 point deep impact socket. At some point I’ll grind down the 12 point and see if I can get some movement. I may swing by a friends who has a long breaker bar too…

Wish me luck!


(Nick Saltarelli) #49

I’ll wish you science. Much better than luck.


(69 FHC ) #50

I did the same thing on the 2+2. Strangely enough, the judges never noticed. :rofl:


(Tom Peck) #51

I know you were looking earlier (Feb 4) for a brass replacement for these fittings. All available in US as well as from Guy Broad in UK (going by Jaguar part No.) are indeed steel.

I purchased brass hose barbs in BSPP thread (British Standard Pipe Parallel) from the Hosemaster in UK:


MHP06/10 3/8" BSPP x 5/8" ID Brass Hosetail Qnty 7 for 3.77 british pounds each, or about $4.86 each - better than the Jaguar part.
Being hose barbs, they have multiple ridges where the hose goes instead of the single ridge at the end of the Jaguar part. They are also longer. But they are brass, and they are the correct thread. I trimmed the length a bit, used new copper washers and they have been great.

On my '69 2+2 with Strombergs there are 6 of these fittings including one on back of water pump where heater return pipe connects.


(Philip) #52

I found that solution on cool cat and have ordered one…fingers crossed its a good long term solution.

Sorry for intruding on this water hose post; which has been fascinating to say the least. Lots of interesting ideas for removing. Dry ice is a good one. Its amazing how different people approach the same problem in different ways.


(Paul Wigton) #53

And now… the world knows.

There goes the value of your car… all that unoriginal drain plug.

:stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:


(Dzia) #54

Instead of grinding down a socket, try welding the socket to the fitting.

Gordon


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #55

Another update. Look what arrived today! My future. I found a brass 3/8” BSP hose barb. $4.75 tax and shipping included. From Walmart! As an added bonus, the hex is a smaller diameter, so I should be able to get a deep socket onto it and both install and remove with greater ease and confidence


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #56


(Robin O'Connor) #57

Definitely need to use some teflon tape on that as the sealing area is very much reduced.


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #58

I was planning on it


(tony) #59

I noticed from working on & dismantling various engines 66-72 that Jaguar reduced the size of that tap head, probably for that reason, maybe about '69 or '70


(Erica Moss) #60

Not only is the sealing area smaller the threads aren’t as deep. I’d be inclined to skip the washer entirely and try and seal with threads only. You can always try again with a washer if it doesn’t seal fully. I’m waiting for the triumphant announcement that the old one is out!


(David Langley) #61

That is a very strange fitting. There is no sealing surface at all, and no undercut at the end of the thread. Clearly not designed for use with a sealing washer. Looks just like a taper (BSPT) fitting but apparently with a parallel thread. Probably fine with some sealant/teflon tape at these low pressures though.


(69 FHC ) #62

Lots of different types of thread sealant out there; scroll down once the link opens for more options. . Plumbers have been using Rectorseal on both parallel and tapered threads for years

https://www.zoro.com/rectorseal-thread-sealant-175-oz-yellow-25790/i/G1910921/feature-product?gclid=CjwKCAiAwJTjBRBhEiwA56V7qymPNTisYlw3J8L8GQRhglO_in0eLGZxJPbuSkBqpC-DjB0RZuuUSxoCXJYQAvD_BwE

The following links might be helpful:

http://www.jgbhose.com/technical-reference-literature/thread-sealing-tips.asp

https://www.plantengineering.com/articles/guidelines-for-choosing-a-pipe-thread-sealant/


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #63

“I’m waiting for the triumphant announcement that the old one is out!”

So am I Erica, so am I. :blush:


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #64

So I ground down a socket today, and tried with no success to get the adapter to move… tomorrow I’m going to stop by a friendly shop and see if they’ve got a long breaker bar, or maybe use an air impact wrench on it.

One way or another this thing is coming out…


(Nick Saltarelli) #65

The brass replacement item doesn’t seem to me a better proposition than the steel replacement. Only an opinion. I’d prefer the security of the deeper threads, and the original aesthetic.

Change the coolant every few years and corrosion becomes a non-issue. The next time anyone should need to remove that nipple will be long after you’re gone.