I’ll wish you science. Much better than luck.
I did the same thing on the 2+2. Strangely enough, the judges never noticed.
I know you were looking earlier (Feb 4) for a brass replacement for these fittings. All available in US as well as from Guy Broad in UK (going by Jaguar part No.) are indeed steel.
I purchased brass hose barbs in BSPP thread (British Standard Pipe Parallel) from the Hosemaster in UK:
MHP06/10 3/8" BSPP x 5/8" ID Brass Hosetail Qnty 7 for 3.77 british pounds each, or about $4.86 each - better than the Jaguar part.
Being hose barbs, they have multiple ridges where the hose goes instead of the single ridge at the end of the Jaguar part. They are also longer. But they are brass, and they are the correct thread. I trimmed the length a bit, used new copper washers and they have been great.
On my '69 2+2 with Strombergs there are 6 of these fittings including one on back of water pump where heater return pipe connects.
I found that solution on cool cat and have ordered one…fingers crossed its a good long term solution.
Sorry for intruding on this water hose post; which has been fascinating to say the least. Lots of interesting ideas for removing. Dry ice is a good one. Its amazing how different people approach the same problem in different ways.
And now… the world knows.
There goes the value of your car… all that unoriginal drain plug.
Instead of grinding down a socket, try welding the socket to the fitting.
Another update. Look what arrived today! My future. I found a brass 3/8” BSP hose barb. $4.75 tax and shipping included. From Walmart! As an added bonus, the hex is a smaller diameter, so I should be able to get a deep socket onto it and both install and remove with greater ease and confidence
Definitely need to use some teflon tape on that as the sealing area is very much reduced.
I was planning on it
I noticed from working on & dismantling various engines 66-72 that Jaguar reduced the size of that tap head, probably for that reason, maybe about '69 or '70
Not only is the sealing area smaller the threads aren’t as deep. I’d be inclined to skip the washer entirely and try and seal with threads only. You can always try again with a washer if it doesn’t seal fully. I’m waiting for the triumphant announcement that the old one is out!
That is a very strange fitting. There is no sealing surface at all, and no undercut at the end of the thread. Clearly not designed for use with a sealing washer. Looks just like a taper (BSPT) fitting but apparently with a parallel thread. Probably fine with some sealant/teflon tape at these low pressures though.
Lots of different types of thread sealant out there; scroll down once the link opens for more options. . Plumbers have been using Rectorseal on both parallel and tapered threads for years
The following links might be helpful:
“I’m waiting for the triumphant announcement that the old one is out!”
So am I Erica, so am I.
One way or another this thing is coming out…
The brass replacement item doesn’t seem to me a better proposition than the steel replacement. Only an opinion. I’d prefer the security of the deeper threads, and the original aesthetic.
Change the coolant every few years and corrosion becomes a non-issue. The next time anyone should need to remove that nipple will be long after you’re gone.
I doubt if that is a 3/8" BSPP fitting which is 19 threads per inch. BSPP threads are not tapered and expect a copper washer to complete the seal. You don’t have enough threads to accommodate the washer, the threads don’t look deep enough, and sealing will be poor. Also, finding a British standard parallel pipe thread at Walmart would be something short of a miracle.
Mine all came out with a box-end wrench and multiple palm slaps to the other end of the wrench. If necessary grind down the area of the wrench where it interferes with the manifold.
Also good old plumber’s pipe dope would likely be fine.