I guess the only wild card is how well that steel has bonded to the aluminum and whether or not using an impact wrench to walk it out will take the aluminum threads with it.
David. I hear what you’re saying but I don’t think it’s too bad. I can also dress the face of the aluminum a bit to insure a seal for the copper washer. Of course that’s dependent on me getting the damn fitting out.
Yep even if you can’t file it down far enough to make it flat again due to obstructions, a welder could easily build up the damaged area so you can machine it back to original. At this point I think time and many applications of PB Blaster are your best course. Consider Nick’s bolt idea while it stews.
Nick
I confess if my adapter looked as good as yours I would leave it in! Mine was badly corroded and I really felt it needed to get done. Yours looks reasonably sound, at least on the outside.
Just remember to keep your antifreeze fresh and at least 50/50 and your adapter will probably be fine.
With that said, I like your idea of welding a bolt, but mine is too far gone, and yours is too good to ruin!
From the picture it looks like you can’t get a socket on the thing because 1 flat is too close to the manifold. I wonder if you could sacrifice an impact socket by cutting out the area that is blocked by the manifold and a little bit more to allow for some turning. Impact sockets are extra thick so the business end may not tulip on you. If you can get it to move you can work something like PB blaster in there start working it with an open end wrench.
As a variation on the wax trick I’ve heated up stuck fasteners and then sprayed them with Something like PB Blaster. Many times that’s been successful.
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yeah. I know what you mean. It’s likely something pathological. The need to take something completely apart and restoring it to as new. The replacement nipples are cheap, like $7.50. I figured just as well replace it. Just had to get the old one off, is all. It has other plans. Think I’ll take your cue and keep the old nipple after dressing up the smeared corner.
https://www.sngbarratt.com/us/#!/English/parts/ee0b9839-d578-42cd-a5fa-05bc21768bb0
Nick
Generally I’m the same way. For a $7 part, just replace it. But sometimes, like this darn thing, it might be best to leave “well enough” alone…
Wanna swap manifolds? 
Good idea John. I had been thinking thin wall, but the thicker impact socket might be the way to go
you could slip a socket over the stub, and weld it to the TOP of the nut
the heat of welding will greatly assist get it out
If you try to take the fitting out, it will most likely take the threads with it. The fitting corrodes on the exposed threads. If it looks ok, leave it alone.
It’s a trick. They sell the nipples cheap, hoping you mess up your manifold.
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Ha! That’s probably why they sell steel ones, rather than brass.
All very interesting…I am at the same point on my restoration. I bought the replacement but haven’t got the old one out. I will watch with interest and am now considering leaving it in.
Good luck and keep us posted please…
At this point, it is obvious that Bob has no option other than to go ahead and remove the the adapter. Before installing the new one, I would suggest a liberal coat of antiseize or perhaps teflon tape so that in another 50 years, his grandson doesn’t run into this same problem.
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All is not lost even if the threads come out. Any competent welder can fill and tap it again. There is also likely a TimeCert you could buy and insert into new over bored threads. Or if you’re in a bodgy kind of mood, just JB Weld a brass one in its place and call it a day. It’s only got to hold back like 10 PSI right?
Yup. When I removed the adapter from the manifold that’s currently installed most of the aluminum threads came with it. The new adapter would screw in but it was a sloppy fit so I used JB Weld. Not going anywhere. Still, I’ll be replacing that manifold and carbs with this second set because it’s in fine condition.
…stuff’ll cure cancer, Im tellin’ ya!!!
On a similar topic…On removing my oil sump plug, it is apparent that the threads are stripped (cord wound on the plug)
Any suggestions for repair without removing the sump?
Cool cat has options. The repair plug is oversize, and the EZ drain can just be glued in place since it uses the original threads and shouldn’t need to be removed again.
https://www.coolcatcorp.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CEC&Category_Code=Oil
In all due deference, I used the e-z drain: it seeped at the slide, and if not hot, takes a loooooong time to drain the oil.