I am very close to starting my jaguar 67 3.4 … after more than 10 years or more stopped … can someone give me some suggestions before starting it … I should change the oil … I should change the gas lines. I’m do it self…I not xpert but a like and I’m excited…
Hi and welcome (what‘s your name?),
looks good! There is a possibility that your valves could stick which would be very bad. I‘d remove the cam covers and remove the spark plugs. Pour a tablespoon of oil (or two) into the bores for lubrication. Also check the oil level. Turn the engine over by hand a few times and check if all valves close back nicely.
Then I‘d say you can crank it over a few times (expect 2-5 times, for a total of at least a minute) with the spark plugs still out and the spade connectors at the coil removed (on one side). As soon as you have oil pressure put everything back and good luck.
Oil change and fresh gas won’t hurt.
There’s a possibility that there is bad gas in the carburetors and lines. I‘d leave the lines if nothing obvious is wrong, have a fire extinguisher nearby. Don’t overtighten the cam cover nuts - if they leak oil you need to anneal the copper washers.
Search for a shop manual, workshop manual, bentley or even haynes. There’s not much you can’t do with one of those, and you can ask here for the rest and experience will continue on its own.
You have jackstands; I have seen people with lesser equipment turn out fine, so you’ll have a good time working on it.
Don’t overtighten the cam cover nuts - if they leak oil you need to anneal them.
Meant for the OP not you David.
Just to clarify it’s the copper washers that need to be annealed, heat to a cherry red and either air cool or dunk into water, they work harden, nothing you can do about it.
THIS IS CRITICAL!!!
Old gas and oil can cause valves to stick open, so I would strictly follow David’s advice.
Yup, I edited it. Could’ve said that better.
For me it’s really easy and beats buying new copper washers (that might not be that soft either). Just barely glowing or they melt.
My name Rigo…and thanks for all answer…just I’m waiting for some new parts …like ignition wire set and others…
Thanks to everyone to take time for reply…I will take seriously…
Have a Fire Extinguisher close by , needles are known to stick and fuel will come out the overflow pipes , a tap on top of the float chamber with a Spanner normally frees them up !
Instead of the copper washers you might try these Stat-O-Seal washers which have a built in sealing O ring. My shop recently used them on my engine overhaul and they seem to do the job. Had never seen them before, Not inexpensive but an interesting solution to oil leakage on cam covers. Here’s a link to Moss Jaguar but there maybe many other suppliers and they come in different sizes.
If the engine has not run in a long time there is a good chance of sludge/varnish/gunk in the fuel filter, lines and in the float bowls. When you turn on the ignition the fuel pump should run, your fuel filter (a glass bowl originally) should fill up and your float bowls should fill up.
When I bought my car it had only been run gently on flat surface streets once or twice a year for 10 years. When I started uphill the engine died. Then restarted and ran great until I went up hill again.
Turns out the paper filter in the glass bowl was blocking all the rust and gunk in the fuel line. It took months to clean all that out.
If you are having trouble in the fuel department you might take the tops off the float bowls and pour some carb cleaner in there. Be really careful remembering the order of the little washers on the top of the float bowl, for the overflow pipe. They are different and the order is important.
It will take a while to get the washers correctly seated on the banjo bolts to the float bowls. And the gasket at the top of the float bowl. You can get gasket and washer kits with replacements, maybe get a couple.
Also, there are two kinds of paper filters inside the fuel filter bowl. I prefer the ones with a clear flow path through the center, so that your fuel enters the bowl and is filtered on the way out towards the carbs.
You probably have an AED - Automatic Enrichment Device. The little gizmo on the side of one carb, with a wire going somewhere, originally to a temp sensor near the thermostat. That should activate when the engine is cold to deliver extra fuel. It is often wired to a switch to bypass the heat sensor.
Careful you get the new plug wires in the right order.
Report back on your progress. We have all been there.
Cheaper from McMaster-Carr, which is likely from whom Moss buys them.
Yes thank …I want to take all possible precautions …I’m thinking change the file lines and ignition wire…fuel filter bowl…I’m waiting for some parts to arrive …arriving the parts … I get to work. !!!..while I’m gathering information from the experts…like you…and others guys…
I’m sorry … what do you mean with float bowl. (. the glas bowl) ?? … or chamber float
Float chamber - but clean both!
I don’t know which you are asking about. I mentioned both. The glass bowl is the filter, it has no floating function. The float bowl is in your lower drawing, with the float actuated valve.
Ok thanks…so much…