I don’t know if this is an indication of the problem, but I think it might be. I just put my multi-meter on the two light green wires individually and tested them for continuity to ground. With the one probe grounded to the steering column and the other probe touched one at a time to the light green wires from the left and right indicator light, I had continuity on both wires.
So now it seems I have to figure out what is grounding them. Correct?
The LG wires will be grounding via the bulb filaments, rather than directly. Just a few ohms resistance, so barely noticeable. The other side of each bulb will be directly grounded, either because the bulb holders are tied to ground, or the BR and BW wires are tied to ground somewhere. Removing the dash top is not a huge job - just search the archives for how to do it. The more difficult bit is getting it back installed afterwards, as you need to hook up the pipes to the demister vents, which can be old and brittle.
Well this is why I wake up at 6am after retirement 
Bob let’s go slow
You rebuilt your steering column correct?
Your blinkers are working out side the car correct? Or they flash?
The only thing your not getting is the green arrows correct?
Remember you have WARNING flashers as well because it’s a series two!
If all the above is correct…
Put all your flashers back in place…
And if your blinkers all work but the green arrows…
It’s one of 3 things Which is easier with the dash top off …
1 the feed wire too the green arrows is not connected all the way at the bullets or it Pulled apart as you adjusted your turn signal
2 your a little A D D these days your little bulbs are not grounded to the green arrows which is in that harness, either fire wall ground our side footwell ground.
3 The wire is loose to the ROCKER switch on the center dash
Again this is only if you reset everything back to stock with old fashioned flashers and wiring
You sure you have two small bulbs in the arrows…
Then the grounds are it or…
Under your left leg. The billet connectors are loose
Again I’m repeating if everything is hooked up stock
With love, it’s nap time
Gtjoey1314
Bob,
Before you go to the effort of removing the dash top, I strongly you suggest that you first go looking for the lower ends of the BW (Black with white tracer) and BR (Black with red tracer) wires which should be in the bundle that goes to the steering column indicator switch. As you can see from the wiring diagram, they are supposed to have in line connectors to the LGY and LGU wires that go into the switch. If you disconnect each in line connector you will be able to determine whether the ground that is causing your warning lamps to come on all the time is coming from the indicator switch (in which case no need to mess with the dash top), or behind the dash panel (in which case prepare to remove the dash top). If breaking the in-line connectors stops the warning light flashing, your problem is with the way the indicator switch is wired. I’ve noted that the replacement indicator switches do not necessarily use the same wiring color code as the originals, so expect to spend some time deciphering which signal is which.
See my responses embedded in your reply above in ALL CAPS so that you can see my responses, I am not yelling…LOL
Xo I’m going the church at 5
Call me after
I think your missing something
I have an old original series 2 diagram
It’s a miracle chart
Will do.
As way of some additional deep background that you might recall. The PO apparently had a problem with the horn on the turn signal stalk. Rather than fork out the money for a new assembly (and apparently the top steering column section since he had stripped the threads by tightening too tight rather than replace the worn bearings) he cut the wires under the dash that went to the horn, and installed a button on the bracket that holds the ignition.
When I ripped out the button and ultimately the steering column to replace the turn signal assembly, the top section of the steering column, and the worn out column bearings, I repaired the wires to the horn. The horn now works properly with the indicator stalk and the turn signals work.
Now I find two cut wires to the flasher relay which explained why the green turn signal indicators on the dash didn’t work. I have used a transformer to show that the bulbs themselves are good, but they both flash with the turn signals, rather than one at a time with the use of the turn signals. It would appear that something is shorted out causing both to flash with the turn signals.
Oh boy there’s 4 wires I think we can fix this?
Grounds grounds grounds
Bob call I’m between rally’s!
Tomorrow 300 miles in the Etype
@j_limongelli @davidxk @John_Walker @L.Lynn
I finally figured out the problem after an hour or two of examining the under-dash wiring and the wiring manual that I purchased from Coventry Auto in the UK. The more I thought about the more convinced I became that the issue had to do with the wiring from the new turn signal assembly and how it connected to the hacked up wiring the PO had done to avoid fixing the damn horn button.
I pulled down the wiring (gently) from the hardura and took pics and traced each connection from the turn signal wiring harness to the auto itself. Finally after tracing each and every wire I realized that the two light green wires that go to the dash indicator lights were not connected properly to the wires they should have been connect to. When I installed the new assembly I didn’t have the wiring diagram at that time, so I disconnected one wire at a time from the old turn signal assembly and then connected one wire from the new assembly, ensuring that I connected the new part exactly like the old part. Which meant, if it didn’t work then, it didn’t work now.
When I realized that the indicator light wires were not connected to anything, I needed to find the wires that they should have been connected to, which were a black/white and a black/red wire. These two wires were no where to be found. It was at that time, I spotted a black wire that was plugged into a dual ground connector with black electrical tape on it. I decided to unwrap the tape and spotted the two wires (black/white and black/red stripped and wired to each other and plugged into the black ground connector. When I pulled them out and separated them, I used a set of alligator clip jumper cables to connect them to the proper turn signal wires…you guess it…everything worked properly.
Now I need to purchase the correct size bullet connectors, so that I can wire these two connectors up properly, but the mystery is solved and I really appreciate the input you guys gave me towards solving this issue.
PS. If any of you know where I can purchase the correct size bullet connectors, please let me know. The set I acquired online are smaller than what’s on the car and don’t work. I have many other crimp on connectors, but I’d like to use something that looks and acts more like stock.
Hi Bob,
I’m delighted to hear that you got it fixed! As far as the connectors are concerned I’m not sure where you can get them, you might call one of the companies that makes replacement looms for our cars and see if they would sell you a handful, Rhode Island wiring is the one that first comes to mind.
Cheers,
LLynn
try Triple-C Motors for bullet connectors. no personal experience, but I bookmarked it some time ago for some reason. they list the diameter, but I don’t know off hand if its right or not.
Bob,
Glad to hear you found the Black/White and Black/Red wires, and as expected a PO had grounded them erroneously. As for finding bullet connectors to do the fix correctly I can’t be any help. That said, if you do find a source, please post it here so that in future readers will benefit from your efforts.
-David
GREAT NEWS…To be honest you dont need the bullets you can use male/female connectors that are insulated and it will take two seconds with a crimper…
Once your blinkers worked, you know it couldnt be much more…
Keep going young man, wait till next week…
gtjoey1314
Sng has them. 1234567
I could not find them on SNG, but this source had them and the rubber connectors. I’ve ordered a few to keep in hand, so that the wiring looks more original.
Bob;
Congratulations on finding the wires, as I followed this you had some of the best give you suggestions, not me as I was just following.
When I did my car I used <britishwiring,com>. They have the proper colored wire and ends and crimping tools.
Regards, Joel.
Joel, many thanks. This store is just what I was looking for. I have added them to my bookmarks.
Bob
I think I know why your PO did that… because I am about to do the same.
The contact piece that sends a ground to the left or right arrow on the dash is loose or broken - as a result neither of my arrows work.
A quick ‘fix’ is to disconnect the black/white and black/red and ground them - this will cause both arrows to flash irrespective of what direction is selected.
Your PO may have done the same for the same reason - as I recall you replace the stalk unit and thus no longer needed this hack.
I could replace my stalk unit but if all that is wrong is that the arrows do not tell me which way I am turning that sounds like info I can live without for now.
I will at leave leave all the bullets intact and include a note for the next guy.
