Turn signal switch repair (early style)

(John) #1

Recently my left turn signals stopped working, the problem was traced to the turn signal switch. So I decided to take it apart. In order to remove the switch, the steering wheel had to go off, but it wasn’t that difficult to get to the switch. After disassembly it was clear that old grease and dust was the cause of malfunction. After some cleaning and regreasing the switch was good as new. After reassembly switch also “feels” much better when switching. Few pictures of the switch internals:




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My first mystery part!
(Kirbert - author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.) #2

Nice! I think we need more of these how-to posts here. And we need some way to archive them and make them searchable.

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(scrimbo) #3

I had a friend that owned a big taxi company…he knew maintenance…He liked to use vas eline petroleum jelly to lube things like that and also the old style speedometer cables…said it was the best grease for that kind of stuff ???..nice photos.

(Aristides Balanos) #4

Yes I agree !
Before with the photo albums it was somehow possible, but with the new interface it’s not even possible to search for pictures…
Maybe a how-to separate section ?

(Ed Sowell) #5

See recent post in the News forum

(Greg) #6

I’m about to try this. My brights don’t work, nor my turn signals, and I’ve determined it’s the switch that is at fault for both. I’ve removed steering wheel and entire switch from shaft.

It’s imprinted on the metal do NOT remove two screws in middle. And the repair manual says in bold Caution: do not attempt to separate switch from mounting bracket.

Fixing the brights was easy, I just cleaned the points with Emory board.

Can I open this thing up to clean the turn signal switch and not ruin it?

(John) #7

As you can see from my pictures above nothing irreversible will happen if you remove the screws. Just be careful to catch all the small springs and pins that may fall out. Mine just needed good cleaning and regreasing.

(Greg) #8

Phew, before taking it apart, I found wiring diagram and tested it with my ohm meter. Turns out just corroded connection sockets. Gave it a good scrape/clean, and now it works.

Anybody else, the lime green wire is source. Green/white is left, Green/red is right (or vica versa).

Just curious why they bothered to put ‘do NOT remove screws.’

(Mark Lee (Pay Pal Patron)) #9

That’s what I did with my windows switches in the XJ6. but that was before I knew about this forum. The sunroof is acting up again, so I suspect I’ll probably be doing that again.

This is what I love about these cars. there isn’t any bit (that I’ve come across so far) that can’t be taken apart fixed and put back together. You gotta love it!

Nicely done!

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(John) #10

If you don’t know what you’re doing and unscrew these screws while the switch is on the car and not on the table, all internal springs, balls and pins will fly out to different directions and your chances to find every small peace and put this puzzle back together will be quite low :slight_smile:
Maybe Jaguar also wanted to boost up the spare parts sales: don’t take it apart, buy a new one :))))

(Mark Lee (Pay Pal Patron)) #11

To support their Service and Parts departments.

Common service part , the lucas ignition amplifier. Last time I looked I think the OE replacement is about $175.00US. Pop off the for screws and you’ll find a Delco - GM HEI module inside. I pop those out and replace with an MSD multi-spark equivalent HEI module for a Chevy small block V8 (and the matching MSD Coil. Makes a world of difference. Top tip!
Oh, and the point of that was the Lucas Ignition Module is also classified as a non serviceable part.
If it’s already broken I figure I can’t break it any more? right?.

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