It sure does. I have to take a hand sledge hammer to reshape the lead hammer back to “normal.” If the lead works, and it does, why bother with more?
If ya get to be an eager beaver…
I would weigh the cost of having the parts for a frankenwrench made up and the time and trouble to assemble it vs. paying $300 delivered for Sarto’s knockoff spinner tool.
Of course, if it’s a fun project to build the frankenwrench then that’s understandable, but if it’s strictly a cost issue then the fabrication cost of frankenwrench would have to be quite low (like 1/5) for me to consider that option.
Dave
Good point, I will investigate the Sarco Tool. I imagine that it is a more compact design and that helps.
Thank You
One suggestion for OTS owners who are taking overnight+ driving trips - the nice aluminum carry case nevertheless takes up storage space that is precious in a trip-loaded OTS.
I ended up asking for the travel pouch later which Sarto kindly sent along. It saves space for the traveler.
To be honest though, once one gets handy with the lead hammer, relying on it for travel usage saves the most space of all options. So it can pay to learn how to use it even if one otherwise uses a tool to do the spinner work @home.
Dave
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Not that I would get one, even if I still owned a Jag, but $300 seems reasonable, and it sure is pretty!
And with the use of a 24" torque wrench it reliably mounts the spinner with a consistent amount of force.
Yes… if one does not have calibrated thwacks, it’s useful.
I got the arm calibration…
I’ve been using Sarto’s tool for several years and found that 185 ft lbs is all that is needed. It takes more force to remove them even with anti seize on all surfaces.
I use a tool I got at a car show years ago. “Knock off spinner tool” and I have used a propane torch once in a while. I believe it is available on line also. I use a breaker bar that is longer than the handle that comes with the tool…
On my Borranis and my Jags, I use the 6# Cook lead hammer. https://www.cookhammer.com/
I have also used a large truck axle socket, i don’t know the size for a Jag, only the Borrani size, which is smaller. It requires a 3/4" drive ratchet and a long cheater.I like to whack my wheels off the ground, tho’ I know that some disagree, and spin them with every hammer strike to even out the forces applied. Gray anti seize, of course.
One other trick i used on my Kirkham Cobra when faced with this dilemma was to have someone (thank you sweetie!) hold the brake pedal as hard as they can, while giving the KO spinner a couple of good whacks. Steve
What is a “Sarto tool”? I’m still whacking with a lead hammer LOL!
I might hafta get one…just to look at it!
Well, those parts are work of art. Looks like one would need a 3ft breaker bar. Add the cost of this and a TQ wrench and you have a very speedy" sum tied up in removing a wheel. Not to mention, will the breaker bar fit in the wheel Well?
A 250 ft-lb torque wrench will do unless the spinner is overtorqued. In which case break it loose with the breaker bar, re-tighten with the proper torque, and then no breaker bar is needed going forward. That wrench/spinner combo will still take up more space than a lead hammer.
I’ve written already that for travel, the lead hammer probably is a better solution when luggage space is at a premium (like in a OTS.) If one rarely removes the wheels, then the tool is a luxury item for sure.
Frequent wheel removers will have to remold their lead hammers periodically. If they use non-lead hammers, then they’ll mar their spinners. Pick your poison.
Dave
I’ve been using the same lead hammer since I bought my car in 2008. I’ve never had to remold it. I find that as the striking surface starts to get beat up and distorted, I can reform it with a steel hammer (I use a 22 oz. framing hammer) much like a blacksmith would do when working on a piece of steel or iron. As JM would say, YMMV
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Forging a hammer with a hammer: you ARE as smart as you look.
A 3’ cheater (¾" galvanized pipe) fits in the OTS boot and takes little useful space.