Update on my 72 xj6 {[[[{[ rear caliper issue ]}]]]}

so an update on the engine. I rebuilt my dizzy it needed a good clean-up… pretty greasy and no bottom seal. the engine runs great with the dual HIF carbs very easy to tune! and stay in tune. Now my problem is my drivers side rear caliper is kaput. I could not even turn the wheel by hand. I took out the bleed nipple to confirm my theory. the bleed valve was bone dry when, no fluid on it so I removed the main line to the caliper with some fluid coming out! I tried to retract the pistons back in to there housing but no luck frozen solid. MY question is looking in the Haynes manual it
refers to the removal of the whole rear end. now it seems like it may be easier to remove the whole unit then trying to work under the car on my head. any suggestions in doing this besides the safety issues which I’m well aware off. also on the subject would anyone recommend the vented discs or any other upgrades I should be aware of. thanks

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if the calipers are seized, high chance they will need reline or replace cyls or pistons, ( cant remember which way it goes on XJ)

Once the IRS is out, serious shipwrights disease normally takes over, with such things as replacing various seals, bearings, uni-joints, handbrake O/H…ie a complete rebuild… I did mine for $AU1400 in parts, and a lot of labor. If i was to do it again I would have the majority of parts blasted and powder-coated (saves so much time)

If the 46yr old rear end hasnt had a major O/H in the last 10yrs or so

Hi
There was a similar discussion at the end of 2017. Series 1 rear caliper removal. I’ve seen somewhere, which I do not remember right now, that you can switch to vented discs and then new caliper. Same of you others my have a better memory

Janne

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For some reason the individual removal of the rear calipers on the series 1 is not described, Sawyer…

…whether it is because it is impossible, unlike the later models, or impracticable is unknown? In any case; removal of the calipers requires removal of the brake pads - which requires pushing in the pistons. In principle, the pads can be forced out without depressing the pistons - but it is an uphill battle with limited access.

Likely, without brake fluid present, the pistons are corroded to the caliper body due to water ingress, and one should expect some serious overhaul, or replacement, of the calipers - as Jan mentions… - particularly sa both calipers may require attention.

As the brake fluid is transferred between the two calipers by a bridge pipe, which may be clogged, it is likely that both calipers are affected to some degree - and preparing for remedial action; you should also test the function of the other caliper, as well…

However, as access is very limited and brute force will not budge the pistons; removing the rear cage seems the only way forward. Consolation; You seem to have little option but cage removal - and the task will be sweetened somewhat if it can be combined with other necessary rear end work…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Tony: well that’s what I figured a major overhaul it might has well be, its just a part of owning a xj6 but better then a car payment lol

Jan: vented discs was one of the upgrades in a manual: and some writing about the key cut on early calipers to late calipers is how you can tell when buying a rebuild kit.

Frank the other caliper is working as should but cant rebuild one without the other. Kind of like the bloke that goes into the hospital to get is leg amputated! The doctor performs the surgery. and he talks to the patient in the morning after. and he says to Mr. Johnston the patient…" we got some bad news, and we got some good news! well what is it he replies." well we cut of the wrong leg" well what’s the bloody good news then! the doctor replies the other one is getting better…

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Can’t see why not, Sawyer - in your story, much could have been saved if the doctors had decided to do nothing…:slight_smile:

A main point is if the caliper can be changed with the cage in situ - which is definitely impossible if the pistons won’t budge. Overhauling one caliper in situ, if possible, saves a lot of work - and the other one can be tackled if it fails later. The point here is that the faulty caliper failed for reasons not likely to be associated with the caliper itself - the other one may be ‘flawless’…

But if the cage must come out; doing both sides is worth while. And the problem causing one caliper to fail should in any case be examined, likely related to the bridge pipe - which may not be accessible in-car…so…

Fitting vented discs at the rear is not practical, and not necessary - most of the braking is taken by the front discs. Whether it is worth while to fit vented discs at the front on a series 1 is a matter of opinion - unless you like high speed driving…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Hi Sawyer, I had an XJ series 2 and did the rear brakes with new rubbers, when I drove later to the garage for MOT the brakes has frosen on the dics. I did not know why and took it again apart and leave the car in the garage for a long time. Later I tried the car and smoke came out of the back. I did not knew what to do, but it was a flexible brake hose that was full inside. So the brake oil could get in the brake calipers, but not out. The brake hose cost only $ 20.
Frank.

Frank thanks for all your great information on doing this task. No high speed driving here in California, speed limit on main interstate HWY"s is 75MPH and 65 MPH inner Hwy"s.

Frank Lupker yes I had done this on my 1971 series 1, Has the calipers in the front had swollen and has you replied, in will let brake fluid pressure in but not out! My problem is the rear and there is no rubber brake lines leading to the calipers, They are all metal lines. Has frank Anderson explained “likely related to the bridge pipe”. thanks for your information Frank Lupker.

Hi Sawyer,

Just as some anecdotal evidence for pulling the cage, I recently did my rear calipers without removing the cage - it can be done but it SUCKS!. I only did it like that to avoid messing with the ancient exhaust on that car. It wouldn’t be so bad if you had a lift to do it standing up but doing it lying on your back is the worst!!!

~Mike
72 XJ6 (x2)
73 XJ6
85 XJ6
84 XJS

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Indeed, Mike - painful, but possible…

In this case; it is a Series 1 - and the description of the in-car replacement of rear calipers is not covered in the manuals. The reason for this is uncertain. I know of no differences with the rear cages through the Series run that would preclude the use of the later models’ caliper removal procedure to be used. Which doesn’t mean they don’t exist…?

The second problem is that he cannot budge the caliper pistons - which is essential for progress in-car…

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Hi sawyer10702.

I tried for a while to get the calipers out from under my car and iirc was hampered by at least one of the long screws snapping. It can definitely be done. Some early cars had removable plates in the spare-wheel-well which improved access so you could cut the car here to shed a little more light on the matter.

However. Dropping the cage isn’t as bad as it sounds. You just need to get the car up sufficiently high to pull the IRS out on a trolley jack. There are really just 8 bolts holding it to body plus the driveshaft to diff.

Downside to removing the IRS is that you will end up making it look nice and it’ll be out of the car for months perhaps.

Also for some reason new rubber mounts may not align with holes in your chassis legs and you won’t want to put the old ones back up if they have perished

Having removed rear calipers three times on a S1, I would only do it with the IRS out of the car. With a stock car the only hard part is getting exhaust pipe loose or just cut it… Needs to be firmly wheels blocked in front and lifted at least 18 inches and blocks put under the sides. It will come out of the car with a floor jack and just a piece of plywood under the IRS center. Be sure to replace the brake hoses at this time… front and rear and do a proper job of bleeding the brakes afterwards… start at RR. I would blow out the brake lines first to make sure all is clear of fluid, water and “junk”.

E brake servicing is the worst part, designed by Rube Goldberg and usually has worn parts inside that will need to be replaced. Cleaning and painting is time consuming and not seen by others.

Mike it is a real pain in the neck trying to do this without it being in the air! but it needs to be done.

Foxy99 I had to remove the cage. dropping the cage was a doddle! it only took about 40 mins…3 hours trying to get exhaust of was the exciting part…

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Roger that’s a nice job you did on the IRS almost a shame to put it back in and get all dirty again lol…IT is a sure thing to remove the cage. now I know why jag put the bridge pipe on the calipers much easier to separate the calipers then pull of drive shafts and all other bits to get the actual disc of. lots of parts, and the hand break units have to come out of the top of the cage. it is impossible to get this done with cage in the car it is so much more easier doing has the book says now I know why. its only then when you realize why the cage needs to come out.

So lads I have removed the IRS it was easy but exhaust was 3 hour job. So first thing has Frank Lupker had mentioned the rubber hose that goes to the rear brake line was blocked. After removing this I was able to move the caliper back… Has Frank Anderson had mentioned. the rotors are beyond there tolerances paper thing and broken around the edges pieces missing that broke off probably from getting hot so the cage needed to come out. so I can see what needs to be replaced. I noticed there are shims in front of the rotors and behind them so anyone can give me some insight on what I need to pay attention to in the rebuild…thanks for everyone’s help in doing this! it is much appreciated.

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I don’t think I’m going to far on this I’m not touching the rear end, or any other major stuff like hubs I’m going to give them some good grease, But has far has going to town there is a limit and it can get pricey, so what is not nackered it can stay, I will probably get new fulcrum seals. that’s it . this fucker will take all my beer money LOL