Have made a first sample of radiator bleed pipe banjo bolt with propper hole location and a new spacer to accommodate standart thicker copper washers. Also bolt is a bit longer so it uses all the thread length available in radiator so there is less chance of thread shearing. I made the bolt from brass to mach the radiator and prevent rust. Now just have to get new copper washers and try it out
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
2
Did you consider designing it to use O-rings instead of copper washers?
Won’t you still have galvanic corrosion issues because the air bleed tube is steel?
They’re certainly pretty. The hex of the bolt looks to be as-cast, but the threads are freshly machined. I presume you started with a brass bolt of larger diameter?
No I didn’t consider o-rings. I think copper washers will seal just fine as long as they are not those stupid paper-thin originals.
I have used hex brass stock and then machined the bolt from it.
Reg. Galvanic corosion I don’t see any issues here as banjo fitting itself is also made from brass (only the tubes are steel) and copper washers will have no issues with brass as well. Fitting in the radiator is also brass so there should be no problems with corosion.
At one point I contacted the manufacturer about the Bango asking if and corrections were made to its design. I was told then it was a replica. Who really know. Can recall the manufacturer now either.
Very nice. I love starting from hex bar - it feels like cheating and from the firsf touch of the tool it looks professional.
I’m in the process of fitting a 400 dollar Chinese ally rad and have hit a snag. Every tube and fitting is fine, the core looks great and the TiG work is robot perfect for a huge saving over a $900 stock part. The problem is that when they scanned the original to register every relevant interface and overall dimension to the high accuracy achieved, they forgot that the OEM tanks were pressed and therefore had slightly rounded shoulders where they made dead square 90’ corners by welding from flat sheet. On the XJ12 and presumably the XJS, Jag relied on the rounding to provide clearance from the sloping sides of the lower crossmember and to let the upper corners miss the captive nuts welded under the body sides where the top panel attaches. So now I have to cut and chamfer the bottom corners and hope that is enough so I dont need to do the uppers.