Have just made an upgraded banjo bolts for V12 oil feed pipes. They have propper hole location when used with standard thicher copper washers. Also they are just a bit longer to compensate for thicker washers and made from stainless steel 
Sneak-peak picture below
Sweeeet. Ideally, itās a good idea to go a bit longer yet, beyond just making up for thicker copper washers, because the OEM arrangement really doesnāt catch many threads in the tappet block. Canāt go too far, though, because the hole isnāt tapped very deep.
you are absolutely right about the bolt lengthā¦ Also fitting a longer bolt with engine in car might be an aditional challenge as well 
Later I will post picture of old and new bolt side by side
Kirbert, here is the picture of the new and old bolt side by side. With thicker washers it will still be few windings longer so it should be nice fit.
Very nice work!!!
Yeah, that looks great!
Thanks guys!
Have tryed them out and all look good! There is enough thread in tappetblock to accommodate this longer bolt. And it definitely feels more safe when tightening.
I will run a small lot of those bolts to use up the stainless steel stock I have bought for making them so if anyone would like to have a set just send me a message 
Why are you making these out of stock? Wouldnāt it be easier to start with a SS bolt of the correct thread and shank length, cut to overall length, gun drill and cross drill?
Hi Kirbert,
Well this was my initial plan, but there are few reasons why it didnāt work outā¦
First I live in āmetricā part of the world and selection of imperial bolts here is limited.
Second - if you want stainless steel, selection is even less.
Third - bolts of this size usually have smaller size head and thatās no good for sealing with copper washer.
Ofcourse I could take a bigger bolt, but then I will have to machine everything the same way I do it now.
Actually first sample I was trying to make from a bigger bolt, but when I machined the bolt to smaller diameter, it didnāt remove the old thread completely as it was just a bit deeper, so then I went for a hex stock.
Hope you included a tool to install them at the fire wall, without having to remove the engine, that would be a real service!!! Best, JW
Well it is easier to change those bolts at the same time you are changing half moon seals. Also lifting the gearbox to tilt the engine just might give few extra milimiters of working space
Itās been a while, but IIRC itās not terribly difficult to install the longer banjo bolts if youāre willing to bend the oil line to do it! Basically, bend the oil line around a bit to get the banjo bolt into the banjo fitting, and then bend it back to get the assembly into position at the back end of the tappet block.
Or take it to the next level and replace the oil feed pipe with SS braided hose as I believe Iāve seen offered by one specialist.
Two things:
John, I would be interested in getting a pair of your upgraded bolts, I am assuming you are just re-manufacturing the ones at the back of the heads and not the lower one on the block, or the one into the oil pressure sensor. Looks like they have thicker washers and donāt tend to leak??
Second, does anyone know who supplies the SS flexible lines?
Thanks
I was just rereading this section in the Book. If you donāt want to bend the oil line to get the longer banjo bolts in, you can just unscrew the banjo connecting it to the pedestal ā or just unbolt the entire pedestal from the engine. Either way, you can then move the oil line around without bending it so you can get the banjos in.
Thanks, very nice looking kit. A little out of my budget range a this point.
Looks like Iāll have to be satisfied with the upgraded bolts.
Cheers
Hi there, I would indeed be interested if you still have some left.
Dave
Hi John,
Can I get a couple please, even better if you can provide the suitable washers as well!
Hi john,
Are you still selling these with the washers?
Ruben
