I’m preparing the car for a repaint, not a full restoration by any means. I have the doors off and i’d like to know about removing the chrome thats near the top on the ouside of the door and extends past the door too. about 2 1/2 " wide. there are 2 phillips head screws at either end. can the chrome be "popped off the fasteners in the middle and replaced after painting. Not sure how it is fastened. thank you,
the extension would come off the same way?
Mr. Phelps;
The ‘Chrome finisher assemble’ is fastened to the door by 4 (four) rivet clips (BD.29334/1) {these are special 'pop rivets that have a clip head}. Remove the screws from either end and then ‘tap’ the chrome finisher one direction or the other, I think I tapped it from the ‘shut edge’ of the door as the access is better.
If you have the illustrated Series 11 manual from XKE books it is shown on page 419 top right corner. You need this book if you don’t have it.
Door before the rivet clips inserted.
Rivet clips and special washers (AW 105T) that I used under the rivet clips to allow the chrome piece to slide in easier and the backing washers used on the inside of the door to increase the ‘purchase’ of the rivet.
Rivet clips attached to the door. Now slip the chrome finisher onto the rivet clips and slide it forward and insert screws.
Good luck, Joel.
Hi,
FWIW on my ex 1E77372BW the screws were slotted and IIRC chrome plated. On that car the passenger door was 7mm (1/4" +) shorter than the chrome finisher so it has to be positioned very carefully.
But yes, pop riveted buttons in the channel is what mostly keeps it on the door. 
Cheers!
illustrated series “11” manual ? is that correct or an extra 1. I will look for that, we never have too many books! Many thanks. the “AW 105T” raises the clip just a bit I see. I am not familiar with washer designations, nor was i aware of such. Can you expand on that please?
Mr. Phelps;
The ‘Illustrated manual’ I mentioned (as I understand it) was conceived and put together by Richard Liggitt and is available at <xkebooks.com>, it is not cheap but not much for our cars is but it is worth it. Jaguar did not make one for the series 2 car. The book I have 'Jagur Daimler Series ll ‘E’ Type Open, Fixed head Coupe, 2+2 Models, was published in 2011 and he did supply some updates.
The book is also available from JCNA and if you are a member it can be purchased for a discount from them. Some of the parts suppliers now use his illustrations in their catalogs.
As for the washer ‘AW 105/T’ , I was able to get them from SNG. I used them under the rivet clip to allow the chrome piece to slide under the clip easier but the manual does not mention it for that purpose and it works well. The ‘backing washer’ can be purchased at a hardware store that sells pop rivets. The two washers are not the same.
Regards, Joel.
Awww, love those part numbers! 
(Pun intended)
It’s from the first post war system, I think it means a flat washer 1/4" BSF/BSW but that hole size is the same as 2.BA and 10-32 or some other (small) non-metric US size so there should be plenty to choose from. The MKV Spare parts catalogue explains the codex behind all the AW, FB, FN prefix part numbers. Sorry I could not verify it, I am in Switzerland at the moment and did not take that book with me, as much as I love it! 
I think I have a PDF on the laptop but need to catch a bus to Austria now…
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Pekka T.;
I have seen and have copied a identification guide for the bolts and screws for the E Type (and probably other Jags) but did not think this number was on that sheet so did not look. I assume you are referring to a different system that is used in the MK V spare parts catalog.
Happy travels.
Regards, Joel.
Joel and all, interesting stuff about the washer sizing. i have some BA wrenches and BSW too, as I also own Norton Motorcycles. there are some BSW bolts on the Jaguar here and there (carburettors for example). I am a member of JCNA so I will look to them for the book . I know very little about the series 2 cars, as the book was written for them would i still find material specific to my car??? I have manual shift transmission and 3 carbs… Braking the same? that’s a complicated area at the master and booster. i am fairly certain the series 2 uses different calipers…
Mr. Phelps;
The Series ll E Type book from <XKEbooks.com> is a exploded numbered diagram of the different systems of the car and an accompanying numbered parts list. You can look at examples on the xke web site. The book is not a repair manual or a ‘how to book’, for that you will need a ‘Bentley’ manual.
The Bentley manual will cover the procedures for your car but you need to read the supplemental material at the end of the chapter.
JCNA has some extra material on the A/C system and the emission material for the S 2 cars that I found helpful.
I know nothing about motorcycles other then the wrenches I use for my MG TC fit Norton cycles.
Regards, joel.
Just to clarify: Mr Phelps’ car is a 66 Series 1 2+2 according to the thread title. As such, the Illustrated Series 2 Parts Book will be of limited utility to him. Unlike for the Series 2, Jaguar did produce illustrated Parts Books for the Series 1 cars, though they do not have the level of detail Richard Liggitt included in his Series 2 book. As an aside, it might help in future if Mr Phelps included his model of car in the “My Cars” section of his profile to avoid future confusion.
-David
David;
You are correct as you usually are. I did not process the ‘66 series l’ as I should have.
Sorry for any confusion I may have caused for others.
Mr. Phelps does not need the book from xkebooks.com as it does not pertain to his car.
Regards, Joel.
I have added my car to profile pages, sorry to confuse. There were only 3600 series 1 2+2 so most are series 2 cars. I’ve been around Jag Lovers for years . the old site had my profile cars which included a couple XJ cars back then. I’m still trying to get rid of the Mr. Phelps tag, it was a reference to the “mission impossible” tv series. Steven Is just fine for me. Maybe someday i will fix that too, add a photo even! If I had a series 2 i sure would have that book, I’ve got quite a few Publications including the Bentley Official service manual, Haynes and a lttlle book by Ken Ball that’s pretty good . I do appreciate all the helpful folks here, and the archive search quite often has an answer as well… Those of you that add photos really make things clear, I’m hope to learn how to do that someday soon. Guess i will spend the 200$ on something else. I noticed the rivets holding those chrome fastener clips coming thru the back side. I bumped the chrome strip thats behind the door but it did not want to move so i may leave those two go. I am not removing my original interior, just replacing rubbers. Thanks again all.
removed both chrome strips but had to cut two of the screws. will need a remedy for that, going to try a left handed drill to remove the stub . does the short extension behind the door tap off the same way, which direction ???
With my Dec 66 roadster, I undid the 2 screws each side the chrome, but there were 3 dabs of black silicone that held the strip rigid.my body shop said this was often done to stop rattling. He had a self made tool which he let me use which basically looked like a elongated bent Stanley knife. This slid underneath the strip and cut into the silicone. Off in minutes!
mine had the pop riveted clips as Joel’s excellent photo and explanation. one clip broke off. those darn screws are the problem now but i am not working on that, have moved on the the steering column universal joint that needs replaced. the chrome will be off till after paint work is done. that silicone sounds possibly like a good idea. i am still wondering how to remove that 6 " piece at the front on the bulkhead…
The 6” piece behind the door doesn’t use the riveted “buttons”. Instead, the chrome pieces have pins that push into plastic grommets into holes in the quarter panels below the rear quarter windows. You should be able to gently pry them off.
Hi John, Thank you. you are in St Louis, yes? we met, years ago. XJ6 transmission… I will gently give it a try , id hate to screw them up but if possible i could do it. and yes its behind the door, it was too late when posted. Is that why we are suppose to take photos before disassembling?
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