Well, the job is done. Once again, as I have found with the older Jaguar models, the guy who wrote the instructions in the factory JTIS manual for this job never actually did one.
First you remove the ball joint nut. 18mm box wrench on the nut and 8mm box wrench on the end.
Then you break the 8mm wrench.
Continue with 8mm socket wrench
Continue with vise grips.
On the other side the 8mm hex rounded off and I had to cut the stud.
I left enough on top to get the pipe wrench on it.
The JTIS manual says now you just remove two bolts. Sounds easy enough, doesn’t it?
Nope, Ford in their infinite wisdom has made these bolts with an anti-rotation tab crimped on them so they won’t just unscrew.
You have to remove the nuts on the other side, i.e. under the hood (UK = bonnet).
The left front wasn’t too bad, 17mm wrench.
The right front has a bracket for the ABS brake system in the way, so you have to remove 3 bolts in order to move it just enough to get the wrench on the nut.
The right rear nut is where you can’t even see it, under another bracket for wiring connectors, which is held on with 3 bolts, but to get to the 3rd bolt you would have to remove the heater duct, so I found a very short 17mm open end wrench and undid the nut with that, 1/12th of a turn at a time.
The left rear nut is under the brake booster, and there is a vacuum hose in the way there, again 1/12th of a turn at a time.
These comments are for a Left Hand Drive car. I imagine with Right Hand Drive the same interference problems will be on the opposite sides.
Then you find the bolts won’t come out because the coil spring is in the way, so you have to take the shock absorber out.
Here are the four nuts holding the shock absorber and coil spring assembly at the top, 13mm socket.
But with the top nuts off you can’t just swing it out of the way, you have to take off the bottom bolt, 18mm and 20mm, but the sway bar link is in the way, so you have to take off the bottom nut on the link, 15mm box and 7mm socket, and swing the link out of the way.
I was so fed up with those tab bolts that I put one in the vise and knocked the tab off. There is a smaller hex under the main hex head, and the tab washer and round washer are crimped into it, so they won’t just go right back in. I filed the hexes down so the tab washer and round washer would fit easily into the hex head again. Now I could use a socket wrench on the bolt head instead of flipping that short wrench on the nut umptillion times. So I knocked off the tabs on the other 3 and filed them the same way.
You may ask, why not cut the tabs off short? But for all their faults, they do prevent the bolts from working loose.
All back together.
The new arms from Rock Auto were made by Dorman, part numbers 521-429 (left, from China) and 521-430 (right, from Taiwan), $134 for the pair with shipping, but the nuts they supplied for the ball joints looked kind of crummy so I used the old nuts.
Did you ever notice, there is no camber and caster adjustment available on these cars? Front and rear alignment is limited to toe-in which is just a few turns of a wrench. So don’t pay a lot for an alignment at a shop; they’re not really doing very much for it.