Uprated Tie rod pin and bush

(Ian) #1

I come across the uprated type of pin and bush a few months back , looking for some feedback from someone who has fitted them !
I can see 2 advantages , both maybe just small I don’t know ,
I , all metal construction , so long life
2, less play in the steering .

On the down side , they are more then twice the price of the rubber kind , and maybe the road surface may be transmitted through to the steering wheel more ?


(Phil.Dobson) #2

for me it was a no brainer having in the past had the orig rubber parts fail due to oil contamination.

(tapped) #3

I rebuilt mine with poly bushes from Prothane here in US. Car is not on the road, so no experience with how it’ll work…but was a straightforward retrofit. Poly bush enables full rotation of the pin unlike the stock rubber setup which twists and returns to center when released.

(DavidMK2) #4


I put standard pins in from a UK supplier, but this was the result after a 10 mile trip to the MOT station …

I replaced them with the PTFE type, double or almost triple the price, but so far they are looking good. I was worried they would be too hard, but with the normal play in the PS system, I am not sure anyone would ever notice.!!


(Pete55Tbird) #5

Ian, I replaced the rubber in the original pin-bush with Prothane poly bushes. See my pixs in
Jag lovers OLD photos dated April 30, 2011 Albums 157 to 168. Very cheap and very easy.
Except for the bright red color.
I am under the impression that the uprated all metal pins your picture shows require that the
holes in the center-link need to be reamed oversized. Pete

(Ian) #6

I know first hand the rubber now days is not what it once was , hope you got a refund David .
I will look into the fitting of the all metal ones , and take a look at the poly ones too .

Mine are fine at the moment , if I do change them it will be a end of year winter job !

(lindi) #7


no problem with the uprated items. I use them whenever required, no reaming or such things. Just a simple replacement and no difference concerning steering. In my own car since 10 years, which is heavily used.

Best regards

(Ian) #8

Just looked at yours Pete , I take it you use the old pins , and there is no metal bush for the pin to slide into ?
So the pin is a tight fit against the poly bush , I can see a wear problem there over time ,
The other thing I noticed , a shim would have to be made to stop the poly bush slipping out , as there is a gap between the bush and Arm !

The ball bearing kind would have no friction , that should make the steering lighter !!


(Peter Jan Rusch) #9

I converted to the upgraded version 10 years ago, stil ok. It has a nylon sleve where the pin slides on. At least no movement of the rubber anymore, that gave me trouble every MOT.

Regards, Peter Jan

(Ian) #10

Well we had some snow today , so no work :smile:

I have a few tie bars laying about so decided to get them out and pick the best one , to start to clean up , and get the old pin and bushes out .

I was very happily surprised to see one of them had the roller bearings fitted , along with a diffrent Idler , with a grease nipple on the top !

Spent a few hours cleaning them up !

Any one know about this Idler , it has LEPAZ 23919 in the casting ! !

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Ps Just found out , the Idler is early MK2 one , Jaguar changed them in 1963 , new ones have taper roller bearings , instead of just a thread on the shaft , so will fit the later kind !

(Phil.Dobson) #11

if you decide to replace the taper roller bearings can you us know where you get them from?

(Ian) #12

The later Idler has no play in it at all , so bearings are good , but the grease has gone hard , so it will just be a strip and clean job with new grease
If I needed new bearings I would go to my local bearing shop , as first port of call !

(Andrew Waugh) #13

I like that it has a grease zerk fitted.

I added a zerk to my S-Type idler:

(Ian) #14

I thought that to , most unlike Jaguar not to have added one , then again the movement is so little I guess they never thought the taper roller bearings would wear out , unlike a wheel bearing !
Like I said the later idler has no play in it , that’s some 50 years old , so once I serviced it no point in fitting a grease nipple in it , I won’t be around in another 50 years !
Oh but the car will I guess , less petrol engine , big electric job in it’s place lol
So may fit one :sunglasses:

(Ian) #15

I gave the idler a good clean and stripped it down , and cleaned all the old grease off .

Phil the bearings are TIMKEN , 03062 and 00050 , I had a look and you can still get them , a lot less on e-bay or other make !

The big washer goes on base of shaft , I got the order wrong :scream:

The felt washer goes in the holder :scream::scream:

(Phil.Dobson) #16

cool. many thanks. …

(tony) #17

the small top one, the 00050/00152X was NLA even a few years ago when I did mine.

I can see it available now, for $150-200 for a Timken!..or $1 from China

It doesnt seem like the top one takes much stress, so unless water has got in, should be ok
think I replaced the larger bottom one with a readily available Timken which was not expensive

(Paul Breen pay palled it) #18

Hi Ian, I have fitted these and like them. The old ones were flogged out and most of the steering impetus produced and upward movement and clunk. Been in for two years - existing ones just asking for a registration failure. Paul

(Ian) #19

Thanks for that Paul , it’s all back together now in a bag , waiting for the better weather to paint it all , in no rush to put it on , my rubber ones are fine !