Used F type purchase, hope I made a good choice?

With 2K was it a demonstrator or a trade-in? If the latter I would be asking WHY?

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The “Carfax” said that it was a corporate leased vehicle. It’s possible. My wife bought me a 2011 Corvette for my 60th B-day…{great wife} . Anyway, I sold it with 5k miles. My kids were driving it more than I was. And it was a manual. I should have bought an automatic. Anyway, my point is, it is possible to buy a super low mileage used car that isn’t a POS. Like any previously used car, you never know the entire history. New is always nicer but always more $$.
Also, what would you think is a fair price…it’s a CPO 2017, base convertible, silver, black interior, had an MSRP of $69k. Dealer is asking $46k. It’s been at their showroom for 40 days. I was going to offer $44k out the door…that would include sales tax, their dealer doc fee of $500.00, registration, plates. Am I too low? I have friends that would offer a lot less.
What would you guys offer. Keep in mind, it is cold in NJ right now. Convertible season is still a few months away.


I had bought a Alfa Romeo 4C that had been a leased car that had 1200 miles on it. Saved about $20K off the price of a new one. No problems at all except minor dash problem that was replaced under warranty.
My F type was a leased vehicle as are most of the resale cars by this Jaguar dealership. I would check their on-line inventory and watch as the prices would drop every 7 to 10 days. My car started at $44K and slowly dropped to $37K when I got it. Tried for a better deal but they would not budge. Car was there for about 90 days, other cars longer. They had another car with a Lemon law title for $29K with 16K miles, was going to buy it but paint was not in good shape. Under California lemon law they have to add another one year unlimited mile warranty.

I have a 2014 F-Type S Convertible. I’ve had three things go wrong with the car in the almost six years I’ve owned it so far.

  • The battery died in the first or second year and was replaced on warranty. I’ve had no problems with the battery since.
  • The “loud” valve in the exhaust system that opens up for more sound and fury stopped working and was replaced on warranty. No problems since.
  • The filler neck to the gas tank was too restrictive, which made it difficult to fill gas. It was replaced on warranty, and I’ve had no problems since.

Some niggles and annoyances:

  • The navigation system is useless. I stopped using it and switched to using the Waze app on my phone instead. This might have been fixed on later model years, I wouldn’t know.
  • There is nowhere in the interior to store my sunglasses. Major flaw, I know.
  • There’s a slight rattle from somewhere in the interior, and I can’t pin it down. It’s been driving me nuts for two years now.
  • The original Pirelli P Zero tires were only any good when brand new (I have the 20" wheels). Once they started showing wear (but nowhere near end of life), they became downright dangerous. I switched to Continental Extremecontact Sport and have been happier with those. Next time I might go for Michelin Pilots.


I bought one of those OBD-II dongles with Bluetooth and a cell phone app to keep track of my trips. Turned out it wasn’t compatible with my car after all, even though the manufacturer initially claimed it was. It mostly worked, but sometimes it would cause a “Transmission fault” error on the dash, making the car impossible to move until the fault cleared after a few minutes. After I removed the dongle, this error has never returned.


My dealer (San Francisco, CA) has been mostly good. My one frustration is that when I complained about that rattle in the interior while still under warranty, they never took me seriously. They’d always claim that they were unable to reproduce it. I call BS, they just didn’t feel like tracking it down. I do feel that the level of service and attention to detail has gone sharply downhill after Jaguar started pushing more volume with the newer models. Or, maybe that’s just me being a snob.

I’ve only tried the dealer in San Jose, CA once, they were nice enough.

I hope this helps. Good luck!

Frank, my16 storm grey coupe, brogue performance seats. I purchased this car last August from Glen cove jaguar with 30,000 miles, leased auto, single owner, car fax showed scheduled maintenance. Owner traded in for new f type vert. I’m kind of old school, not afraid of a 30,000 mile f type that could have issues. I figured any issues would be addressed in those 30,000 miles. Jag exterior and interior looked new. Glen cove replaced, before I took possession, two rear tires, rear discs and brake pads, flushed the brake system. They brought the jag to me (Hudson valley NY) the next day, explained the elite care, CPO conditions and went over the car, paired up my cell phone. Drove the car that night and over the weekend. Two days later the battery was dead and it was my fault for not confirming that the exhaust baffle switch which I knew was wonky was fixed. I called elite care, roll back arrived and had it sent back to Glen cove. They fixed the electrical short, replaced the battery and when done had them truck it back to me. I’ve since driven this great jag to New Hampshire, Vermont, Watkins Glen and places in Connecticut. I’ve driven close to 3,500 miles since with no issues. I will say I keep the battery charged with a Ctek battery manager whenever not in use. I love this f type, drop dead gorgeous and since I’ve owned a 63 e type coupe for 21 years that says volumes. That’s my 2 cents IMHO.

Howzabout the top of yer noggin?

Jus’ sayin.’


Thanks for all of the replies. I didn’t hear any " I had to get towed home" stories. That’s reliable enough for me!! I’ve been waffling between buying a C1 or a C2 Corvette {53-67} either as a restored car or as a project car. I’ll be retiring in a few years and will need a project or something to keep me busy. No more E Types. Love the car, but too many issues with body work and parts aren’t cheap. An alternator or a water pump or a starter is about $35.00 for an older Vette. Don’t even want to think what a S3 alternator cost these days.
I’ll be happy to push the “start” button on the F Type and away I go the bagel store on weekends. If I can’t check the oil with a dipstick, then I guess I’ll never have a reason to pop open the bonnet.
My Audi A5 was the same without a dipstick. However, the vestige of a dipstick hole was there with a plug in it. I didn’t keep that car long enough to do an oil change anyway. So, an F Type is in my radar now. I just wanted somewhat of an unbiased consensus from a group of knowledgeable owners. I figured that most F Type owners on this form probably had an E Type in their past somewhere.
Just don’t know what to offer the dealer. It’s the end of the month so I guess now would be the time to pull the trigger. Anyone in NJ use Paul Miller Jaguar in Parsippany for service? If you did, were you happy with them? I believe that they bought Morris Cty Jaguar in Madison which was there forever.
Let me know if you did. Thanks for your comments. It’s kinda funny because on the E Type forum, people were always asking technical questions on how to fix their E Types. I would imagine that this forum may have a bit of an older crowd?? I assume that there isn’t much that a civilian could fix on the F Type. Maybe it’s more of a support group…like AA.

That’s us. “My name is Gunnar, and I’m an F-Type owner.”

Since the car you’re looking at is a convertible, please make sure to inspect the convertible top carefully before you sign on the dotted line. A service tech once told me that the fabric sometimes chafes on the mechanism, and a new top is a cool $12k. Probably more now, that was two years ago.

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Just so happens I have both an E-Type and F-Type at the moment (I know, lucky guy). E-Type is in service garage getting ready for a 5 month tour around Europe this summer. I’m at Laguna Seca for two days of track time with my 2013 F-Type. Two different cars, but both still fun to drive. I bought the F-Type new from a dealer in Santa Barbara, but rather take it in for normal servicing in Monterey. Those guys seem to be a bit more knowledgeable. Strangely, the F-Type still has original batteries, but since I drive it a bit hard on the track, I’m on my third set of tires, and second set of brakes. My fault, not the car’s. The only other work outside of normal service was the replacement of a faulty brake sensor. It was a 10th of the price of replacing the brakes again, so I was a happy boy. Just past 30k miles, and still going strong enough to leave most other cars behind on the track…

Is it really a “true” fact that an F-Type convertible top replacement is $12000.00?
I just can’t wrap my head around that number. I would think that a 6cyl engine rebuild would cost $12k but a canvas top? Tell me it isn’t so. It’s making me thin twice about buying this car.
I believe that I paid around $1200.00 to have a Hartz cloth top installed on my 74 E Type 5-6 years ago.
My wife has a E350MB conv and every time that I raise or lower the top I’m amazed at all the mechanical doo-dads that make it work. It’s really a thing of beauty to watch. I assume that the F Type is similar in that respect but $12K still has my head spinning.
If a dealer gave me that price, I think I’d be driving with the roof down all year.

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Now that’s funny.
Speaking of no top, do you still have that beautiful Speedster ?

All I can tell you is that that’s what a Jaguar tech told me. I didn’t fact-check him, but that should be easy enough to do.

He told me this when he offered to inspect my car’s convertible top just before the warranty ran out. Since he seemed to be looking out for my interests, I took him at his word.

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Hi Gunnar,

Probably is true, but 12K is still insane.

A quick Google search shows that the top assembly is rather expensive at $8500 from one dealer. Install labor additional. However, the top cover which is the fabric is under $3000 (part only) new from the dealer. Most likely available aftermarket as the car has been out for a while.

That makes sense, and is a huge relief. The tech probably quoted the entire assembly because if there was a problem with chafing, the factory would replace the whole thing to avoid the problem simply returning right away.