V12 crank damper for 6.0L

Moss France says the part is ordered when needed : no stock, no delay yet
Moss UK says not available
ordering from Moss USA may be the fastest option (if not the cheapest)

I’ll post back when I know more

edit on 09/21 :
their USA website is stating :
EBC9693 CRANKSHAF DAMPER, XJS 6.0 XJS 5.3 from (e) 8S.57572, XJ12 Series III from (e) 7P.59903 (Serpentine belt)
EBC9389 CRANKSHAF DAMPER, XJS 6.0 to (e) 8D.121470 N/A N/A
NHF1411AA/1 CRANKSHAFT DAMPER XJS 6.0 from (e) 8D.121471

while the Jaguar parts sites makes no reference to engine numbers, and states :
for 5.3 V12 From (V)139052 up to (V)179736)
EAC9693 C36013
and EAC9248 ↳EAC9693 for ABS 5.3 cars
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/278.900.1475.4895.21757/brand/jaguar/

and From (V)179737 Up to (V)226645]
5.3 V12 EAC9693
and
6.0 : EBC9389, then NHF1411AA
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/278.910.1498.5065.22363/brand/jaguar/

no answer yet from Moss Europe : I’ll try and ring them again

meanwhile, I found some other alternative replacement part for EAC-9693

MTC 7808 is shown on various places as a match for EAC-9693, so could be a faster option

How new such a simple part would be so problematic…
And not that cheap considering it’s just a piece of iron bonded to a piece of rubber.

indeed : it seems crazy to go into such pain to find the part
I reckon the limited market is the real reason, but jaguar didn’t help as they changed the part number along the years
If EAC 9693 can be installed on a 6.0, why create 2 more part numbers

The damper was changed to eliminate the cone, thus becoming a one piece damper with a parallel bore. Would probably have been viewed as a worthwhile move to reduce the number of parts but for the fact it occured so close to the end of V12 production.
Rebonding really is quite a simple process and seems to have worked for me for at least 8 years without issue.

I’ll go ahead and order one of those aftermarket EAC9693, so will need a cone
I got one from an older design damper, but the cone is brocken in 4 parts so unsusable :frowning:

I wouldn’t expect a cone to be hard to locate. At a pinch l would have one, for postage you can have it.

1 Like

not so many V12 in Europe compared to USA (fuel price and all that…)

thanks for the offer : much appreciated :+1:
I’ll have a look around here, and will get in touch if needs be

as I had no answer, I gave up on Moss, and ordered the part to the US seller, to get it delivered to my place in France (import tax and customs fees are still unknown, but delivery is expected around November 9th : i’ll keep you updated when times come

I reckon I’ll be missing at least one Woodruff key, since my car should have only one between crank and damper, so will order a pair :those are still available and cheap (compared to the other bits)

I plan to change all belts for new ones, and fit a new front crankshaft gasket (thanks to Aristides for the better version)
is there anything else I should take care off at the same time ?

What is this “better version” front crank seal/gasket you speak of? I re-read thread for info from Aristides but don’t see it. I just had to replace one on my XJ12 Series 3 and I could have sworn I already did it, and can’t remember (too many V12s), If I did already replace it, then the part I bought should have been a “better version” than what I installed!

One key included with cone sent Jean

1 Like

As long as you are in there you might ensure your fan has no cracks, and might replace the timing chain damper access cover. They get brittle. Some good ideas on replacing or securing that little cover are in this forum

1 Like

@baxtor thanks : that’s great
I may still get a spare, as I know I’m able to loose it and would spend hours to find it under the car

@JimD_in_Alabama
the fan seems in good condition, I checked it when I replaced the visco coupler., but still worth another check
I already replaced the little cover by a john_john aluminum version, and it seems to do a good job keeing the oil in the engine

@John6 : here is the thread where Aristides showed his gasket option

1 Like

@baxtor I got the cone this morning in the mail , in its protective wrap :
thanks again for the part and taking the time to send it to me :+1:

The crankshaft damper arrived a few days ago, and I went to pick it at the post office this morning
exactly as described : MTC 7808,


other refs are showing, here they are, if they can help others in the same search
OE VDP151 (10866) : not sure what they could relate ?

It is a perfect match with the said cone

for those interested in mainland Europe , total cost to get the MTC 7808 from the above link was a bit less than 200US$ (89$ for the part, 55 for shipping, 29 for VAT (??) , then import tax + fee 22€), so it seems a good alternative to shipping the old damper for refurb

“just” need to fit it to replace the busted one, not sure that’ll be fun

2 Likes

I finally managed to get working on this damper

getting all belts out

then the 2 x 2 screws holding the front V pulleys on the damper

the 4 screws looked almost new, while the 2 spacers look rusty : I reckon they’ve been replaced already

splitting the said front part from the damper pulley was surprisingly easy , using a flat screwdriver as a lever

the big 33mm bolts is in view
Loosening it will be the chalenge

the video is bad, but you can see that the said damper is really shot : I can turn the outside pulley by hand
VID_20240217_162002_short

1 Like

It’s good that you attended to this: @Craig_Balzer can tell you what happens with a bad damper.

While I needed to rebuild my balancer due to (dry) rotted rubber (after 32 years in storage), my major issue was with one of the two thrust washers being dealer-installed backwards, sending debris off of the crankshaft into the oiling system, which slowly destroyed the oil pump - further infected the oiling system with more debris while cutting a 1/4" deep gouge into the center main bearing surface of the crankshaft that ultimately resulted in a 6" long crack. (Wow - what a run-on sentence.) Result: replacement crankshaft, new thrust bearings, new oil pump.

Other than that (Mrs. Lincoln), the dealership did a fine job repairing the leak from my rear main oil seal.

1 Like

Ah… I misremembered it being a problem with the dampener.

I"ve been looking for a way to hold the crank in place while tightening the big pulley bolt (several options are available for loosening it, but reaching the 200Nm torque is critical so it stays there)

as the problem is the same for every car with the same kind of damper pulley, I went digging for options and after various measurements, I ordered a Volvo / Ford crankshaft holder tool
https://ctatools.com/products/7635

I received it today, the bolt pattern is the same , with 4 bolts 70mm apart, and 50mm opening in the center, for the bolt socket

first try seems to be fine, I’ll add some washers to spread the load and reach enough pressure (pic coming of the said tool, but I still expecting the 33m socket

2 Likes

sorry for the delay in feedback : work and small health issues went in the way

in order to get access to the damper pulley, I removed all belts,electric fan and its holder, all belts, and pulled the radiator as I noticed a small leak, it will go to a specialist for check / repair
I removed the main fan shroud , but left the fan (for now)

access from the top is ok, but not much view

from below, I was able to check the 33m socket and handle bar access

and the crank holding tool which goes inside the opening , while the bolts align with the damper pulley threads

all looked promising, but it’s a fail : the bolt head is too wide for the tool opening, :disappointed:

removing some metal doesn’t seem a plan, as it would weaken the tool
I may be able to use it by adding a thick ring between the tool and damper pulley, to clear the bolt head while I loosen it

I 'm about to use the starter motor to get the bolt off, and think again to adapt the tool for the refitting

A Toyota/ Lexus crankshaft tool may be a better option , as it gives more clearance to get the bolt out, while the 2 bolts pattern could match the 70mm of the pulley
https://www.amazon.com/Sunluway-Harmonic-Damper-Holding-Crankshaft/dp/B07Q29ZMMY

suggestions welcome, as I’m a tad afraid of the starter motor method