In reply to a message from MattFurness sent Tue 2 Aug 2011:
Matt I think the hardest part is establishing a specification for
yourself, because there are so many options. Also because I was
converting a carburettor car I had to make a new wiring loom which
was not hard, but quite time consuming.
At the outset I wanted to go wasted spark ignition and elminate the
distributor. I also decided I would drive the system using a
toothed wheel on the crank and a crank position sensor. These
choices narrowed the options somewhat.
- The ECU - available as a kitset to assemble yourself, which
comes with very detailed instructions - or ready made. MS2 will
handle a V-12 fine, while the latest MS3 has more input and output
options, it’s optimised around sequential injection on a V-8 and
costs twice as much. Not necessary
- Toothed wheel for the crank (I could supply you this).
- Crank position sensor - I used a Falcon one, $20 or less.
- Mounting bracket for the above which you will have to make.
- Coil packs if you are going wasted spark. I used AU Falcon ones.
They are quite big and heavy, but the big fat blue spark will jump
a 50mm gap with a sound like a rifle shot and has to be seen to be
believed. Nissan Skyline ones are good too. Apparently V-6
Commodore coils are not so good and best avoided. If buying coils
from a wrecking yard insist on getting the 4 pin low tension plugs
and a short piece of loom. These plugs are impossible to buy. You
can’t get terminals either, but the plugs come apart and with care
the terminals can be re-used.
- Blanking plate for the distributor hole.
- Coolant temperature Sender (Bosch $25)
- Inlet air temp sender (Bosch $70)
- Throttle position sensor
- A wiring loom - if you are converting an injected car a lot of
the above hardware will be existing and will serve fine.
- Coil ignitors - I made my own but have since found there are
various Nissan and Toyota ones out there which are cheap.
- If converting a pre HE car you need a set of HE fuel injectors.
The pre HE ones are way to big for any sensible street application
and make it hard to get control over low fuelling requirements.
- An idle air valve of some sort. Again Bosch seems high on the
list of preferences.
- To get the best out of the system you want Wide Band O2 sensors
and their interfaces. I’m using NGK Powerdex, but Innovate seems to
be the main player there.
I think that fairly much covers it. To get six coil trigger signals
out of the ECU you need a few extra electronic components, but it’s
all explained in the manual and I picked these up at Jaycar for
less than $10
You will need fuel and ignition maps of course, but there are
plenty of people on this forum can help you with that.–
The original message included these comments:
How difficult is it to convert to this system??
And what hardware did you use ??
I am going to pull my engine out soon and am considering making
this change while I have it out.
I have refurbed my ignition system but I like the idea of imposing
full computer control over the timing and fuelling.
Neville S1 XJ12, Megasquirt ECU
Christchurch, New Zealand
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