Ok guys, I am ready to give up. I posted about cam timing,
and I appreciate the responses, but I am still nowhere. One
thing that I did check though was timing. I have a vacuum
retard on my 71 E type. I set my timing at 12 degrees at 850
rpm with the vacuum retard connected. After reading the
posts, I then figured that timing was a freebie check,
so… It is still set at 12 degrees at 850rpm, but will go
to 35 degrees at 4000rpm. So all is good? Not really. I have
a ‘‘A’’ on my damper in one spot, and a ‘‘B’’ in another. Well,
the ‘‘A’’ is the one I am using.
As a reminder, I advanced my timing (at the crank) by 6
degrees. I have headers, and used Total Seal rings. Other
than that, the engine is stock. But my headers will turn
orange above 2500 rpm. I have enrichend the fuel via a
change in needles, as well as now drilled my jets by .001
larger. The car falls flat on its face under load around
4800rpm, like it has a governor on it.
I now don’t know what to do. Break down and re-time my
camshafts, or as I am doing here, seek a step by step
procedure BEFORE it comes to that.–
Gene Holtzclaw
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Mon 10 May 2010:
have you tried an Air/fuel ratio gage in exhaust, to give
that information, to see if it is really lean,thru the rpm
range, 1st no-load then out on the road with an actual load.
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Mon 10 May 2010:
This is a bit of a ‘shot in the dark’ but you said that it flattens
out at 4800 rpm. Before going back over cam timing, take a look at
your fuel pump and filter, you may be fuel starved.–
rugg
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Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
4
Gene Holtzclaw wrote:
The car falls flat on its face under load around
4800rpm, like it has a governor on it.
Just for grins, take out your spark plugs and re-gap them to about
half the gap. Tell us if it makes any difference at all.
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Donald Fox sent Tue 11 May 2010:
I am more than willing to try any and all of these
suggestions. Before my engine rebuild, ignition was never a
problem as I have the Crane 3000 system with the PS60 12
volt coil.
I also replaced my fuel pump and filter (twice). The second
time going to a larger aftermartket fuel pump. I even
installed a fuel pressure gauge and fuel pressure regulator
in place of the non-return valve.
I presume I would have to have my headers drilled and tapped
to put in a o2 sensor to really check my fuel ratio?
I was mainly interested in knowing what, if anything I can
do to KNOW whether or not my cams are too far advanced
before continuing this seemingly endless trail.
I figure that if my exhaust valves are opening too soon,
then I am truly fighting a losing battle.–
Gene Holtzclaw
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Mon 10 May 2010:
Gene:
‘A’ is the correct mark for timing on cylinder 1A which is
the front cylinder next to the radiator on the right hand
side of the engine as viewed from INSIDE the car.
I’d go back to basics and make sure all the cam and ignition
timing are correct.
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In reply to a message from alex paterson sent Tue 11 May 2010:
Thanks, although that’s what I am afraid is my problem. I
know I advanced my cam timing at the crank by 6 degrees on
a effort to gain more low end
I Just wish there were a way to rule that out as I REALLY
hate having to tear it back dowm–
Gene Holtzclaw
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Tue 11 May 2010:
While it may or may not be part of the problem; are you sure that
the non-return valve should be removed?
I am curious as to what fuel pump you are using (only becaause I
have tried a Holley that ended-up being incredibly noisy)
There are A/F analyzer attatchments for the lm-1 that can be placed
in the tailpipe.–
The original message included these comments:
time going to a larger aftermartket fuel pump. I even
installed a fuel pressure gauge and fuel pressure regulator
in place of the non-return valve.
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In reply to a message from rugg sent Tue 11 May 2010:
I am not sure I should have taken the non-return valve out
or not, but it is only a spring loaded check valve. My new
fuel pressure regulator is the same thing, only adjustable.
I don’t remember the brand of the fuel pump, but it is no
noisier than the factory pump.–
Gene Holtzclaw
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Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
11
Gene Holtzclaw wrote:
I am not sure I should have taken the non-return valve out
or not, but it is only a spring loaded check valve. My new
fuel pressure regulator is the same thing, only adjustable.
Whoa, wait a minute. I haven’t been following this too closely, but
IIRC on the carb cars there is fuel pressure regulator at the carb
inlet that LOOKS like a spring-loaded check valve; if the pressure is
too high, it pushes the valve open and relieves back to the tank. If
you’ve removed this thing but left the line back to the tank open and
operational, your car definitely won’t run worth a rip!
I dunno what your new fuel pressure regulator looks like, but if it’s
an inline thing, it is NOT the same thing. It might work, I dunno,
but if it were me I’d prefer the relief type over the inline type.
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Wed 12 May 2010:
The first thing I did when I started trying to figure this
out was to put a fuel pressure gauge on it. (After replacing
the fuel pump). The pressure was all over the board during
revs. Stable at idle, but would go from 4 psi, to 1, to 2,
etc. I then went and got a adjustable (inline) fuel pressure
regulator for low fuel pressure (5 psi or less). It is my
understanding that the ZSs like 3 psi. I don’t know what my
fuel pressure is doing now under a load, but it does stay
stable now at all rpm ranges while sitting and revving it.
I went and got a vacuum gauge. I was advised to put a vacuum
gauge on it and go drive it. It should fall to zero under
full throttle, but should climb as the car levels out so I a
told. If it stays low, or zero, only 2 things cause this.
Restricted exhaust, or cam timing problems. I will find out
this evening, but I can rule out exhaust as I now have
headers, and a original ANSA exhaust system, The car no
longer sounds like the XKE I’ve always driven. Kinda loud,
but not annoyingly so.–
Gene Holtzclaw
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In reply to a message from Gene Holtzclaw sent Thu 13 May 2010:
I think that possibly without the check valve, the fuel is, for
lack of a better way to descibe it, by-passing the carb (but not
completely) and heading back to the gas tank causing the float
bowls to run somewhat dry upon accelleration then return closer to
normal at lower revs. That would explain why your fuel pressure
changes. You are correct at setting pressure at 3 lbs.
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