[v12-engine] Evans Coolant for the V12

Has anyone tried Evans coolant in their machine? While in Au. saw
several race cars using this in their cooling systems. Claims were
that it was superior, ran cooler, to regular Glycol mix, yes
expensive but also stops all corrosion. Talked to my Radiator
service guy and his question was how do you remove all of the water
from the cooling system. Second is it more cost effective than
regular anti-freeze. Any shared experience with this product would
be appreciated. Best, JW.–
86XJ-S cpes,Ballet I,Act II,Lutz stg.1, AAV service
Fresno, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Wed 2 Apr 2014:

Dr. Q,

I have not used the Evans in my XJS precisely because I was not
sure how to entirely remove the water from the system. I do
however run Water Wetter with distilled water and 15% glycol mix.
The car definitely cools more efficiently and the corrosion
protection of Water Wetter is superior to glycol additives. I
learned just how much better Water Wetter is in cooling efficiency
in my 1980 Triumph TR 8. That car has twin electric cooling fans
drawing 14 amps each when running. The alternator load when they
ran was significant as is the drop in engine performance as well.
With the Water Wetter mix, the fans hardly needed to run at all. I
too live in the Central Valley. BTW, the only reason I use any
glycol is for freeze protection as Water Wetter offers none.

Jeff–
The original message included these comments:

Has anyone tried Evans coolant in their machine? While in Au. saw


Jeff 84XJS, 74 e-type OTS
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Wed 2 Apr 2014:

Try this,
http://liquidintelligence.com.au/
and talk to Peter Maher.
Damon Ross–
d r
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In reply to a message from d r sent Tue 8 Apr 2014:

Thanks DR, Pentosin makes good stuff…I use their cooling product
in my TDI. Will check into their product line here in the US.

I did find out that Evans has a pre-clean fluid that is installed
and is Hygroscopic…attracts water to eliminate all H2o form the
system before final installation of the Evans coolant. Jay Leno has
been using this stuff in his Bugattis for some 16 years and swears
by it. Youtube pics on Lenos garage.

Hows the weather down ther now???hot?

Best, JW.–
The original message included these comments:

http://liquidintelligence.com.au/
and talk to Peter Maher.


86XJ-S cpes,Ballet I,Act II,Lutz stg.1, AAV service
Fresno, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Tue 8 Apr 2014:

Just had the hottest summer ever and the hottest start to
April ever, rained the last 24 hours ,thanks for asking.
Liquid intelligence specifies using a prep fluid prior to
putting the waterless coolant in.
Water based coolant must be drained first then the system
should be filled with prep-fluid which is in turn drained
before final fill with waterless coolant.
The prep fluid is hydroscopic but also importantly makes
any of the resultant residue, that is inevitably left in
nooks and crannies after draining the coolant off(assuming
we are not doing a complete strip down of cooling system and
engine) , completely compatible with the waterless coolant.
If water remains it undermines the effectiveness of the high
boiling temp liquid.
There is a ‘‘marker’’ dye in Liquid Intelligence 115 that
turns green in the presence of water.
Corrosion will be eliminated, boil over on shut down a
thing of the past, no perilous instantaneous boiling of the
coolant upon the removal of radiator cap.
I am running it in an air conditioned XK150S and am
suitably pleased-. I am looking forward to not having to
deal with corrosion issues nor change the coolant
periodically - as we all know those periods, like the
passage of time, are upon us faster than we would like.–
d r
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In reply to a message from d r sent Wed 9 Apr 2014:

I have used EVANS, since 1992, 3 of my vehicles, never a
problem , never any boiling or bubbling noises.

follow there instructions on getting all water out,altho if
you put an atmospheric boilover tank it will catch most
left over water, but be carefull of the water spurting outof
vent,(been there). water boils easily, EVANS dont boil, it
just draws the heat away from hot spot areas.

system works best with a hi-pressure water pump,(tighter
clerances of impellor to body. and a LOW presure cap 5-6lbs.

had it in HOT running Mazda rotory turbo,for 8yrs, original
fluid, drained it out, still amber color, absolutly NO
corrosion, filtered it thru a cloth and put it back in!–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Tue 8 Apr 2014:
Just had the hottest summer ever and the hottest start to
I am running it in an air conditioned XK150S and am
suitably pleased-. I am looking forward to not having to
deal with corrosion issues nor change the coolant
periodically - as we all know those periods, like the
passage of time, are upon us faster than we would like.


Ronbros
daytona fl. / Austin TX., United States
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In reply to a message from Ronbros sent Wed 16 Apr 2014:

Thanks Ron, have been considering a licensed dealership and was
curious to find anyone with previous experience.
Is the water pump on the V12 sufficient to serve the system on the
V12?
Your thoughts and anyone else on the matter of the V12 water pump
performance greatly appreciated.

I like the anti-corrosion part as well as the increased cooling
effeciency. Obviously the overflow and expansion tanks would have
to be scruppiously cleaned and rinsed with prep solution. A freshly
serviced (rodded and boiled out) radiator, the heater core may see
some improvement along with rest of the cooling system. Fresh T-
stats, Lutz Stage 1-111 mods should really bring the system to a
durable and resilient system. Best. JW.–
The original message included these comments:

I have used EVANS, since 1992, 3 of my vehicles, never a
follow there instructions on getting all water out,altho if
you put an atmospheric boilover tank it will catch most
system works best with a hi-pressure water pump,(tighter
clerances of impellor to body. and a LOW presure cap 5-6lbs.
fluid, drained it out, still amber color, absolutly NO
corrosion, filtered it thru a cloth and put it back in!

Just had the hottest summer ever and the hottest start to
I am running it in an air conditioned XK150S and am
suitably pleased-. I am looking forward to not having to
deal with corrosion issues nor change the coolant


86XJ-S cpes,Ballet I,Act II,Lutz stg.1, AAV service
Fresno, CA, United States
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In reply to a message from Dr.Quail sent Wed 16 Apr 2014:

I was pleased to hear the actual use endorsement, too.

Just for the record, I think that the one thing everyone
agrees on with stuff is that it has lower, not higher
cooling efficiency–unless cooling efficiency is defined
differently than common usage of the word.

Specific heat and heat conductivity are both lower than
water/glycol mix (less heat absorbed from engine; less heat
given to radiator per liter of coolant), and viscosity is
higher (fewer liters/minute flow for a given pump, and
higher HP to drive the pump).–
The original message included these comments:

I like the anti-corrosion part as well as the increased cooling
effeciency. Obviously the overflow and expansion tanks would have


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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In reply to a message from Robert Wilkinson sent Wed 16 Apr 2014:

some interesting facts about evans, and how it works.

a major problem with jag v12 get overheated and leak at the
head gaskets=blown gaskets, that usually is caused by,what
is refered to as a localised hot spot,usually in the rear of
the heads, poor flow,etc.

the hot spot where the water is,boils and forces the
cooling effeincy away from the spot,no cooling at that area
air bubble,rapid heat rise softens the gasket,and things go
down fast from there.(can also expand the alumium,and loosen
a seat).

the evans does not boil into a pocket of air,375* temps. it
stays in contact with the metals, absorbing heat.

did you ever think about how nascar engines run at 250-300*
for 500 miles.

altho for racing some tracks dont allow evans, but we dont
race much ethier.

and in exremly cold temps it can get more viscous, pump is
important, but now we have electric pumps!!!–
The original message included these comments:

agrees on with stuff is that it has lower, not higher
cooling efficiency–unless cooling efficiency is defined
Specific heat and heat conductivity are both lower than
water/glycol mix (less heat absorbed from engine; less heat
given to radiator per liter of coolant), and viscosity is
higher (fewer liters/minute flow for a given pump, and
higher HP to drive the pump).


Ronbros
daytona fl. / Austin TX., United States
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In reply to a message from Ronbros sent Wed 16 Apr 2014:

Agree with everything you say. The hot spot thing is the
main advantage IMHO.

I have 200,000+ miles on a Corvair. It’s air cooled engine
runs at 400 deg F with no problem. So perhaps the higher
temps with Evans are of little concern. But hard to get
over the habit of wanting the old water pumpers to run cool.–
The original message included these comments:

the evans does not boil into a pocket of air,375* temps. it
stays in contact with the metals, absorbing heat.


Bob Wilkinson, 73 XJ6
Saint Louis, MO, United States
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Specific heat and heat conductivity are both lower than
water/glycol mix (less heat absorbed from engine; less heat
given to radiator per liter of coolant), and viscosity is
higher (fewer liters/minute flow for a given pump, and
higher HP to drive the pump).

In the particular case of the Jaguar V12, I’d argue that all of that
is of secondary importance to the issue of coolant boiling within the
heads. When the coolant around the valve seats turns to steam, the
local temperature skyrockets, and the seats fall out. If this stuff
doesn’t boil, it’s worth it – even if the engine runs at a constant
250°F.

It probably won’t, though. Our collective experience seems to
indicate that this cooling system has at least 50% margin, perhaps
more. The problems we’ve had have all been the result of
deterioration of the system – Barrs Leaks plugging the tubes in the
radiator core, “tobacco” obstructing the airflow through the
radiator, etc., etc. Put the system up to snuff and run this fancy
coolant, I’ll bet it’ll prove to be excellent.

Note: You’ll STILL want to pull the radiator every two years in
order to clean out the tobacco. If you can drain the coolant, strain
it through cloth, and put it back in when you’re done, that’d be
good. You should probably plan in advance; the earlier cars have a
horribly designed drain and the later cars have no drain at all. You
should install a suitable drain that can be directed into a container
before you even fill it with expensive coolant the first time.

– Kirbert

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !On 16 Apr 2014 at 15:23, Robert Wilkinson wrote: