I have seen discussion of GORETEX? gaskets and different head and
intake gaskets. Just wanting to know what is the best…
You can read my book!
Short version: OEM head gaskets are metal-fiber-metal but some
(Payen?) aftermarket versions are fiber-metal-fiber. The metal-fiber-
metal are the ones to get, and they are very reliable in an
unmodified V12, no need to look for something better. Assemble dry.
Intake gaskets are available as a 12-piece set (several different
varieties) or a 2-piece set with a part number that starts with NNA
or something like that. The 2-piece set, made of a thick pink
fibrous stuff, is the way to go, although it’s recommended that you
cut it into several pieces before installation – especially on a pre-
H.E. where the 2-piece gaskets can make it difficult to change spark
plugs. Apply a gasket dressing during installation, and retorque all
the manifold nuts a coupla weeks later.
The good valley cover gasket is a rubbery thing that’s black on one
side and red on the other. Don’t accept anything made of paper.
This might also be true of a couple of other gaskets in this
The cam cover gaskets are available in paper or gortex-coated metal
foil. Don’t use paper. The gortex-coated metal foil gaskets are
very good but remarkably expensive, and should be used only with
aluminum half moon seals. OTOH, another perfectly workable plan is
to omit the gaskets altogether, seal the cam covers with Loctite 518
sealant, and use the OEM rubber half moon seals. Either way,
slightly longer bolts with flat washers and split-ring lock washers
Most of the other engine gaskets are available in a gortex-coated
metal foil version. These should be insisted upon. Paper is
unacceptable for any joint involving motor oil, since oil seeps right
through paper. Gortex gaskets should be assembled dry.
The tappet block installation onto the head doesn’t involve a gasket,
but it’s often a source of leakage – partly because the ROM
recommends Hylomar which is not an appropriate sealant for this
location. Use Loctite 518 in this joint, and make very sure your
bead – and it should be a bead, don’t just paint the entire part –
makes a circle around each bolt hole and that it’s located in places
that will meet faces on the mating part.
Some of the bolts holding the sump to the bottom of the engine need
to be installed with sealant applied to the threads. Otherwise
you’ll have oil seepage through the threads.
Anybody think of anything I’ve forgotten?
and how do I
ensure that is what I get when ordering over the internet or on the
Always a challenge. They all happily insist they are genuine Jaguar
parts. Might as well start by insisting upon no paper gaskets at all
and see how much argument you get. I don’t think there are any paper
gaskets in the modern Jaguar/Ford gasket set, although it appears
that the throttle body gaskets may have gone back to paper after
having been gortex at one time. Paper isn’t too bad for the throttle
bodies, since the only thing that might leak is air.
BTW, if you buy a rebuilt water pump, it’ll come with paper gaskets
built in. You’ll want to argue about that, because you can’t just
pop it open and change the gasket; it would require another rebuild.
You should insist upon it being built with gortex gaskets.
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