[v12-engine] Head studs

It would appear Jaguar is no longer supplying engine studs
and we are now in the aftermarket arena

Does anyone currently offer Jaguar V12 engine studs? And if so, are
they equivalent to OEM, better than OEM, or cheaper than OEM?

And if not, are there any engine studs for other engines that might
be used in the V12, perhaps by shortening them or something?

Perhaps it’d be helpful if someone with V12 studs in hand can
summarize the dimensions: how many of each length, etc.

– Kirbert

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !On 13 Apr 2013 at 5:37, Repairman wrote:

In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Sat 13 Apr 2013:

Allow me to get my notes…–
The original message included these comments:

Perhaps it’d be helpful if someone with V12 studs in hand can
summarize the dimensions: how many of each length, etc.


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Fri 19 Apr 2013:

There are 26 studs that hold down the EACH head

C.32331(2) 7/16’’ DIAM, 5 3/8’’ LONG
C.32535(5) 7/16’’ DIAM, 7 7/8’’ LONG
C.32332(2) 7/16’’ DIAM, 4 3/4’’ LONG
C.32534(5) 7/16’’ DIAM, 8 1/2’’ LONG
C.32679(6) 3/8’’ DIAM, 5 0/0’’ LONG
C.32680(6) 3/8’’ DIAM, 2 3/4’’ LONG

The 7/16’’ studs have a 1’’ thread cut at 14 TPI
The 3/8’’ studs have a 3/4’’ thread cut at 16 TPI
These ends go into the block

The 7/16’’ studs have a 3/4’’ thread cut at 20 TPI
The 3/8’’ studs have a 3/4’’ thread cut at 24 TPI
These have nuts/washers.

The 7/16’’ studs have Steel Acorn nuts/spacers
The 3/8’’ studs have steel nuts/spacers

The spacers are 1/8’’ thick, also steel

The 7/16’’ stud Acorns are tightened in 3 stages:

Stage 1 = 25 LB/FT
Stage 2 = 40 LB/FT
Stage 3 = 52 LB/FT

The 3/8 stud nuts are tightened in two stages

Stage 2 = 20 LB/FT
Stage 3 = 28 LB/FT

The nuts are tightened wet. Jaguar uses engine oil.

The tightening pattern is start at the middle and work
outwards on the 7/16’’ studs, stage one, then do stage 2
middle outwards on all nuts, stage 3 middle outwards all nuts

ARP has a thread cleaning tap set 911-0006 to clean out the
threads in the block, about 100$

On to the end of the 7/16’’ taps add a 10mm(?) 12 point long
socket with 1/4’’ extensions to get the taps deep into the
thread holes.

Grainger sells cleaning dies to do the threads, 22$ ea. :

HXD36NC, 3/8, 16
HXD38NF, 3/8, 24
HXD716NC, 7/16, 14
HXD716NF, 7/16, 20

Liberal amounts of vegetable/cooking oil to help cleaning,
cleanup with alcohol, acetone and a vacuum

Jaguar no longer appears to be supplying the studs.
Aftermarket Studs on average cost about 11$ each.
600$ for a full set, thereabouts.
Not sure who supplies these aftermarket studs

After dismantling two motors and successfully removing 112
studs, my observations are the 7/16’’ studs can have multiple
pits up to 3 mm deep. Some can be cleaned up and reused,
others discarded. 3/8’’ studs in general are good, but
because the ends are not covered by Acorns like the 7/16’’
studs such that the exposed ends had more damage. Some 3/8’’
studs were bent and discarded. I suspect previous owners had
messed with the 3/8’’ stud nuts as they are easy to reach. If
you plan to remove the heads, plan to replace some of the
big studs, or all, depends on your comfort level, having a
spare motor can save you a fortune in studs, however of the
112 studs removed to get 52 good studs I still purchased 16
new ones. Why you ask ? My ignorance of having never done
this before allowed me to damage the studs with the stud
extractor tool, and a lot of the big ones were pitted

Torque:

7/16’': Jaguar torques to 52 ft/lb wet

Grade 5 wet 44 ft/lb, dry 55 ft/lb.
Grade 8 wet 58 ft/lb, dry 78 ft/lb.

3/8’': Jaguar torques to 28 ft/lb wet

Grade 5 wet 26 ft/lb, dry 35 ft/lb.
Grade 8 wet 37 ft/lb, dry 49 ft/lb.

It appears Jaguar torque specs are less than Grade 8’s so
I’m currently looking for Grade 8 polished stainless
high-hat Acorns for all 52 studs and stainless washers

Hope this all helps–
The original message included these comments:

Perhaps it’d be helpful if someone with V12 studs in hand can
summarize the dimensions: how many of each length, etc.


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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2 Likes

In reply to a message from Repairman sent Fri 19 Apr 2013:

There are 26 studs that hold down the EACH head

Awesome report, most comprehensive, thanks.

– Kirbert

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !On 19 Apr 2013 at 16:22, Repairman wrote:

In reply to a message from Repairman sent Fri 19 Apr 2013:

If it makes any difference in finding studs that will work:

It wouldn’t concern me in the slightest if replacement studs
were threaded farther down the stud than the OEM.

It wouldn’t concern me much if the upper end had coarse
threads rather than the fine threads found on the OEM studs.
Of course, one would have to replace the head nuts to
match. It would also be nice to know how to adjust the
torquing specs to achieve exactly the same tension on the
stud, but if that data weren’t available I’d probably just
use the same specs and aim for the high end.

Finally, it wouldn’t really concern me too much to use
generic studs, as long as they were either Grade 8 or
‘‘alloy’’ – something with serious strength.–
Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Sun 21 Apr 2013:

The new studs have arrived. They all weight 10-25 grammes
more than the existing studs

The reason they weigh more is that the shoulders on the old
studs no longer exist. Now the diameter of the stud is that
of the shoulder

This makes for a really tight fit into the holes in the
cylinder head. The old studs would just rattle thru.

As I still had 15oz. of 400 grit lapping compounded
left…A rag covered in lapping compound and pulled thru
makes the insertion a little easier

I’m sure the head will go on ‘easy’ but with the way the
coolant and crap wicks up/down the old studs it may be a
royal pain to remove these thicker studs–
The original message included these comments:

Finally, it wouldn’t really concern me too much to use
generic studs, as long as they were either Grade 8 or
‘‘alloy’’ – something with serious strength.


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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I’m sure the head will go on ‘easy’ but with the way the
coolant and crap wicks up/down the old studs it may be a
royal pain to remove these thicker studs

Perhaps not. The crap is gonna fill the space. With the OEM studs,
you end up with a collection of crap that fills all the way to the
narrowed stud, which will sort of “wedge” itself into the hole. But
if the stud is full diameter, it should pull right through the crud
without wedging.

All that said, I can’t recall EVER hearing of anyone having the
slightest bit of trouble getting a head off a second time. I think
that, once they see how the crud builds up in there, they decide the
Barrs Leaks is a bad idea and never use it again, so from then on
removing a head is simply a matter of removing the nuts and lifting
it off. The gasket itself never seems to stick.

BTW, where did you get these thicker studs?

– Kirbert

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !On 27 Apr 2013 at 7:14, Repairman wrote:

In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Sat 27 Apr 2013:

Well then, works for me, lets see what happens

Coventry West, GA–
The original message included these comments:

BTW, where did you get these thicker studs?


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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Coventry West, GA

BTW, where did you get these thicker studs?

What are they sold as? Generic replacements, aftermarket upgrades,
what? Cheaper than OEM studs ever were, or more expensive?

– Kirbert

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !On 28 Apr 2013 at 6:57, Repairman wrote:

In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Sun 28 Apr 2013:

These are their everyday replacement studs. Average price
for the head studs was about 11$ each.

They look like they have been galvanized, have a zinc like
color. The original ones look polished.

Hopefully you are correct that the heads will pop off easier
next time round–
The original message included these comments:

What are they sold as? Generic replacements, aftermarket upgrades,
what? Cheaper than OEM studs ever were, or more expensive?


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
–Support Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php

Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !

the new partnumbers for main studs are as follows:

C32331(2) 7/16’’ DIAM, 5 3/8’’ LONG new NAB2646BA
C32535(5) 7/16’’ DIAM, 7 7/8’’ LONG new NAB2646AA 198mm long
C32332(2) 7/16’’ DIAM, 4 3/4’’ LONG new NAB2646CA 4-11/16“ ca. 120mm long
C32534(5) 7/16’’ DIAM, 8 1/2’’ LONG new NAB2646DA 216mm long

cheers Nick

just snapped the last one while 3rd step torquing AAAAAAARRRRRGGGHHHH

1 Like

just snapped the last one while 3rd step torquing AAAAAAARRRRRGGGHHHH

Oh man. My initial reaction was a pained laugh. I then uttered some choice words in sympathy.

We can all sympathize with you. These cars will test your patience, or drive you insane. Either way you will never be the same.(smile).

Thanks Bernard

luckily I was able to unscrew it out of the lower thread without disassembling the head - this saved a new head gasket and much of work

Greetings from Germany

You can obtain the studs from JAGDAIM PTY. LTD Melbourne Victoria OZ

Re Timeserts, GM/Cadillac uses them to reclaim head studs on the Northstar engine; if good enough for GM, good enough for me. I think the Northstar are M11x1.5, so not the same as Jaguar.