Robert Woodling wrote:
Thanks to this list I am finding out just how much I do not know about engine
rebuilding.
You and me both!
I used an engine assembly lube that I picked up at the local NAPA store
(Sta-lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly-Graphite).
I didn’t find out that this stuff existed before I put everything back
together. I just used liberal amounts of motor oil… and am hoping for
the best.
Anyway, my source of perplexion is that once the crank was assembled and the
carrier nuts were torqued appropriately (I double checked the torque with two
different wrenches) the crank is harder to turn than I expected.
I had the flywheel on, and I could easily turn the crank by hand at the
flywheel, I was actually able to turn it by hand until I had 9 or 10 of
the pistons back in it.
Is the resistance attributable to the
formulation of the assembly lube?
I talked to a guy who has built MG race engines, he had a friend put one
together once that had so much lube in it that it was stuck. He
disassembled it, cleaned it off, and it was fine. So I guess the answer
is yes, I have heard of having so much lube or whatever in there that it
can actually lock up the engine… of course that is second hand.–
Robert
73XJ12 (to be HE)
My Jaguar page at: http://members.home.net/obstinate
Thanks to this list I am finding out just how much I do not know about engine
rebuilding. The manufacturer literature for Triumph motorcycle engines
specified the use of Loctite 271 on the big end nuts so I assumed that would
carry over to the big ends and main bearing carrier nuts on the V12.
Fortunately for me Kirbert alerted me to my error, and even more fortunately I
read his e-mail before I reinstalled the crank. Thanks again, Kirby!
Now for the latest puzzler:
I used an engine assembly lube that I picked up at the local NAPA store
(Sta-lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly-Graphite). The ingredients list
heavy mineral oil (what, maybe 90W Castrol? :)), Lithium Soap, Calcium
Dinonyinaphthalene Sulfonate, and Zinc dithiophosphate. I have no idea what
the last two are but I thought someone might be interested, or maybe even be
able to pronounce them!
Anyway, my source of perplexion is that once the crank was assembled and the
carrier nuts were torqued appropriately (I double checked the torque with two
different wrenches) the crank is harder to turn than I expected. When I
assembled motrcycle cranks with motor oil they spun freely. Now I will admit
that a 12 cylinder crank is much more massive than the 3 cylinder Triumph
crank, but I still expected it to turn with little or no resistance. I did
check to see that the resistance is not from the rear main seal. Has anyone
else used an engine assembly lube? Is the resistance attributable to the
formulation of the assembly lube?
I am contemplaing using this assembly lube for the big ends and smearing it on
the cylinder walls when installing the pistons. I am conserned that the sum
of all these surfaces coated with this rather viscous goop will make the
engine very hard to turn by hand.
What say all you experienced souls out there? Am I thinking to much? Should
I clean this stuff out and use Mobil 1 instead?
TIA,
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com.
>I used an engine assembly lube that I picked up at the local NAPA store
>(Sta-lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly-Graphite). The ingredients list
>heavy mineral oil (what, maybe 90W Castrol? :)), Lithium Soap, Calcium
>Dinonyinaphthalene Sulfonate, and Zinc dithiophosphate. I have no idea what
>the last two are but I thought someone might be interested, or maybe even be
>able to pronounce them!
>Anyway, my source of perplexion is that once the crank was assembled and the
>carrier nuts were torqued appropriately (I double checked the torque with two
>different wrenches) the crank is harder to turn than I expected. When I
>assembled motrcycle cranks with motor oil they spun freely. Now I will admit
>that a 12 cylinder crank is much more massive than the 3 cylinder Triumph
>crank, but I still expected it to turn with little or no resistance. I did
>check to see that the resistance is not from the rear main seal. Has anyone
>else used an engine assembly lube? Is the resistance attributable to the
>formulation of the assembly lube?
>I am contemplaing using this assembly lube for the big ends and smearing it on
>the cylinder walls when installing the pistons. I am conserned that the sum
>of all these surfaces coated with this rather viscous goop will make the
>engine very hard to turn by hand.
>What say all you experienced souls out there? Am I thinking to much? Should
>I clean this stuff out and use Mobil 1 instead?
>TIA,
>
I did several small and big block Chevys in the late '70s. The engine guru
that I got advice from at the time swore by that moly-graphite lube for the
top end, but insisted that the only thing you should use on the crank
bearings was motor oil. I’m sure I asked why at the time, but for the life
of me, I can’t remember what he told me. I do know that at least 3 of the 5
engines I built are still running, one with 190K on it. I’d definately check
with a local engine rebuilder or speed shop before proceeding.
Regards,
Keen Young --90 XJ-S Rouge–
At a wild guess because it’s more likely to block an oil passageway
there
John
Keen Young wrote:
…snip…>
I did several small and big block Chevys in the late '70s. The engine guru
that I got advice from at the time swore by that moly-graphite lube for the
top end, but insisted that the only thing you should use on the crank
bearings was motor oil. I’m sure I asked why at the time, but for the life
of me, I can’t remember what he told me. I do know that at least 3 of the 5
engines I built are still running, one with 190K on it. I’d definately check
with a local engine rebuilder or speed shop before proceeding.
Regards,
Keen Young --90 XJ-S Rouge–
–
This mail is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and
grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to
be considered flaws or defects.
Robert,
I don’t think it is a good idea to use moly on the rings or
cylinder walls, the rings won’t bed, just use plain engine oil.
Regards,
John Ashcroft
'80 XJ -S
Melbourne, Australia.----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Woodling robertwoodling@netscape.net
To: v12-engine@jag-lovers.org
Sent: Monday, June 07, 1999 8:07 AM
Subject: [v12-engine] Pre-assembly lube question, 271 lesson
Thanks to this list I am finding out just how much I do not know about
engine
rebuilding. The manufacturer literature for Triumph motorcycle engines
specified the use of Loctite 271 on the big end nuts so I assumed that
would
carry over to the big ends and main bearing carrier nuts on the V12.
Fortunately for me Kirbert alerted me to my error, and even more
fortunately I
read his e-mail before I reinstalled the crank. Thanks again, Kirby!
Now for the latest puzzler:
I used an engine assembly lube that I picked up at the local NAPA store
(Sta-lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly-Graphite). The ingredients list
heavy mineral oil (what, maybe 90W Castrol? :)), Lithium Soap, Calcium
Dinonyinaphthalene Sulfonate, and Zinc dithiophosphate. I have no idea
what
the last two are but I thought someone might be interested, or maybe even
be
able to pronounce them!
Anyway, my source of perplexion is that once the crank was assembled and
the
carrier nuts were torqued appropriately (I double checked the torque with
two
different wrenches) the crank is harder to turn than I expected. When I
assembled motrcycle cranks with motor oil they spun freely. Now I will
admit
that a 12 cylinder crank is much more massive than the 3 cylinder Triumph
crank, but I still expected it to turn with little or no resistance. I
did
check to see that the resistance is not from the rear main seal. Has
anyone
else used an engine assembly lube? Is the resistance attributable to the
formulation of the assembly lube?
I am contemplaing using this assembly lube for the big ends and smearing
it on
the cylinder walls when installing the pistons. I am conserned that the
sum
of all these surfaces coated with this rather viscous goop will make the
engine very hard to turn by hand.
What say all you experienced souls out there? Am I thinking to much?
Should
I clean this stuff out and use Mobil 1 instead?
TIA,
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com.
I just used oil on mine. The only thing I used moly grease on was the
two-piece rope seal; the one I bought was already graphite impregnated,
but I reckoned a bit more slip wouldn’t be a bad thing till it bedded
in.
I did mine without the flywheel, but put two long bolts in the flange
end of the crank that the flywheel bolts to, and then used a pry bar to
turn it over. It was fairly easy to turn with no pistons, but got
progressively harder work as the pistons were loaded.
Touch wood, so far so good. After 1300 miles, I tried kicking it down
in anger yesterday. Seriously wow! Now I remember exactly why I did
all the work. It seemed to get from 80 to 110 mph in no time flat, with
no fuss whatever.
Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-v12-engine@jag-lovers.org
[mailto:owner-v12-engine@jag-lovers.org]On Behalf Of Robert Woodling
Sent: 06 June 1999 23:08
To: v12-engine@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [v12-engine] Pre-assembly lube question, 271 lesson
Thanks to this list I am finding out just how much I do not
know about engine
rebuilding. The manufacturer literature for Triumph
motorcycle engines
specified the use of Loctite 271 on the big end nuts so I
assumed that would
carry over to the big ends and main bearing carrier nuts on the V12.
Fortunately for me Kirbert alerted me to my error, and even
more fortunately I
read his e-mail before I reinstalled the crank. Thanks again, Kirby!
Now for the latest puzzler:
I used an engine assembly lube that I picked up at the local
NAPA store
(Sta-lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly-Graphite). The
ingredients list
heavy mineral oil (what, maybe 90W Castrol? :)), Lithium Soap, Calcium
Dinonyinaphthalene Sulfonate, and Zinc dithiophosphate. I
have no idea what
the last two are but I thought someone might be interested,
or maybe even be
able to pronounce them!
Anyway, my source of perplexion is that once the crank was
assembled and the
carrier nuts were torqued appropriately (I double checked the
torque with two
different wrenches) the crank is harder to turn than I
expected. When I
assembled motrcycle cranks with motor oil they spun freely.
Now I will admit
that a 12 cylinder crank is much more massive than the 3
cylinder Triumph
crank, but I still expected it to turn with little or no
resistance. I did
check to see that the resistance is not from the rear main
seal. Has anyone
else used an engine assembly lube? Is the resistance
attributable to the
formulation of the assembly lube?
I am contemplaing using this assembly lube for the big ends
and smearing it on
the cylinder walls when installing the pistons. I am
conserned that the sum
of all these surfaces coated with this rather viscous goop
will make the
engine very hard to turn by hand.
What say all you experienced souls out there? Am I thinking
to much? Should
I clean this stuff out and use Mobil 1 instead?
TIA,
Robert Woodling
'84 XJ-S
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com.