May be an incredible autocrosser, eventually!
[http://www.youtube.com/watch?
v=fpdcSeUKbvQ&feature=related&safety_mode=true&persist_safety_mode=1
]
or
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In reply to a message from Wiggles sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
hey, guess what? The guy on that video is on this forum, and it’s
me 
Since that was taken, I have driven the car and dyno’d the
car and now am painting the car. Check out my build blog:
http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Cool car Mark,
What couldn’t find a Bugeye Sprite ;-‘’)
Paul,Mark
Type in brainsboy on this site and you tube, This Kid put one in a
Miata!
Darrell–
The original message included these comments:
hey, guess what? The guy on that video is on this forum, and it’s
meSince that was taken, I have driven the car and dyno’d the
car and now am painting the car. Check out my build blog:
http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
–
78 XJ-S 95 X-300 http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1287957641
Delavan Wi., United States
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In reply to a message from Darrell G sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Mark
Great build but why not toss the carbs and put some FI on there?–
Mike Blair 2x94 XJS(6.0 Coupe&4.0 Convert)+85 HE&96XJ12
powhatan/Va, United States
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In reply to a message from eyedoc sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Eye Doc;
I agree that FI really makes sense… I suggested so earlier…
However he may not feel ready to tackle it…
His idea of mounting the carbs will pick up some power…
However if you view his build he is really into it… Some
extremely clever ideas. Plus sound, logical, thinking…–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Mark.
I read through your whole blog… You have some really clever and
original ideas there… I like how you think things through and then
take a path.
Your idea of raising the carbs will improve things, however…
Open the throttle wide open on your strombergs… Lift the piston
completely out of the way… See that obstruction there on the
bottom? You need that to make Carbs work. My best guess is those
strombergs flow somewhere around 200 CFM each. That’s actually
pretty good, that’s 800 CFM! Possible only because the piston
makes the carb smaller at low speed.
The ports also need to be small enough to keep fuel
suspended/mixed in the air.
Now please look in the fuel injection manifold… notice how much
bigger stuff is? That’s because fuel is squirted right at the
intake valve. You now have 1200 CFM to feed that little 326 cu.in
engine…
You’ve shown the ability to create and modify… If you buy the
fuel injection system off a early XJ-S or XJ12 you’d be amazed at
how simple the system is once you eliminate the non-
esentials…Plus you can use your O2 sensors to tune it and it’s
even possible to hook a couple of turbo’s to it and make 500+
horsepower for less than $250. Yes! No exageration! and it’s not
some finicky about to blow up motor. Idle smoothly, No need for
mufflers (turbo’s quiet the noise) Keep RPM under 6000 simple to
tune…
I’ll walk you through the process if you would like… PS I
regularly see Jaguar Fuel injection in the junk yards go unwanted.
Ask and I can give you where, when, and how much to pay…–
The original message included these comments:
me
car and now am painting the car. Check out my build blog:
–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from eyedoc sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
EFI is definitely a possibility now that more than a few
knowledgable Jag people say it’s not difficult and the parts are
available. What I really have to wrestle with is that this is a
race car in a class with a light minimum weight (1850 lbs incl.
driver) and I am 450 lbs over that, much of it due to the V12. I’m
going to do my best to be competitive with the existing engine but
spending $1000 or more to gain maybe 50 hp is not cost effective.
At my current weight, I have to make 360 ft/lbs just to match the
acceleration of the car that has won the last 4 years, nevermind
dragging all that extra weight around corners, too. I am hoping my
intake changes and getting more rpm out of the engine will get me
the power I need and if I have done my homework, the car should
handle pretty good, too.–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Mark,
$1000? Wow! Can I sell you about 4 for that price? You can buy
whole rusted cars for less than that and have a spare engine.
You’ll find the weight is about the same as with Carbs plus or
minus a few ounces. …
Are turbo’s allowed in that class? Used Turbo’s and intercoolers
from say a Volvo sell for $75 including the intercooler…
To make it work you will need fuel injection and something called
a FMU ($85 new, much less used) The potential is for 500 horsepower
on your engine… (you will need to add heavy duty valve springs. I
buy mine from Isky)
One final point, If you get really sticky tires and good brakes
the stock oil baffle system will allow all the oil to surge forward
away from the pickup. Group 44 baffled the heck out of their oil
pan and drove it once around the track and loaded back it up… next
time it was raced they had a dry sump system in it… Broadspeed was
forced to use the original oil system (with baffles) and simply
replaced engines like popcorn…
Think your baffling system through completely!–
The original message included these comments:
knowledgable Jag people say it’s not difficult and the parts are
available. What I really have to wrestle with is that this is a
race car in a class with a light minimum weight (1850 lbs incl.
driver) and I am 450 lbs over that, much of it due to the V12. I’m
going to do my best to be competitive with the existing engine but
spending $1000 or more to gain maybe 50 hp is not cost effective.
At my current weight, I have to make 360 ft/lbs just to match the
–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
I was basing that $1000 on the current crop of V12 EFI stuff for
sale on e-bay. $200 for a left manifoldm $200 for a right manifold,
then I still have to get injectors, etc and a computer to run all
of it. I am using my last dollar to get the car painted, depending
on how this season goes, I will seriously explore EFI next winter.
Turbo/Supercharging is allowed-I only wish NOS was because I have
it on my truck and love it.–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Hi Mark
I was watching your video. What flywheel do you have on the car?
BR
Philip–
My website: www.jaguardiy.net
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In reply to a message from jagwit sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
I have an aluminum flywheel from XKS Unlimited–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Wed 30 Mar 2011:
Mark;
Don’t buy piecemeal,or E-Bay where the only way to win is to
spend the most… That’s the expensive way! Buy whole cars…
(running or not it doesn’t matter… most of the time the problem is
something simple like a short in the wiring harness or most common,
bad ground!.
Let me know when you’re in the market, I’ll help you find whole
cars… (not over night natuarally but it seems I’m connected to
several a year)…(what state are you in? I’m in Minnesota) Best
time to buy is right around Holloween… They are worried about
storing it another winter. You wouldn’t believe the prices I can
get cars for at that time of year… Best deals are bad
transmissions, rusty, or smashed up. Take the stuff you want,or
can E-bay. Haul the rest in for scrap* and chances are pretty good
it’ll only cost you a few hundred dollars…I’ve actually come out
ahead reasonably often…
Easiest system and best for racing is the earliest years… 1976-
77-78 On those it’s not so much fuel injection as timed fuel
squirting. Very easy to modify and they have the biggest fuel
injectors…(get the worst mileage, as if that mattered)
Before you change the existing camshafts please get a video of
your tach during a run (s)… then time the amount of time you spend
at various RPM… what you want to do is buy smart…
There are a lot of items out there that while they will make more
horsepower they will slow you down… Camshafts for example seldom
increase power in the range you use the most but instead increase
horsepower at peak RPM… Since there is no free lunch that top end
power comes at the expense of low and mid range power…
There is a computer program out there, Well worth the
money…Called Engine Analizer…(costs about $100 to download) I
used to waste too much money listening to others and buying stuff
that in the end didn’t make me faster… about 15 years ago I
stumbled onto that program and Wow! what a massive improvement…
I started to buy cost effectively!
There are other similar programs out there but they can’t be
customized as closely and often take averages etc. instead of real
numbers…
It’s actually scary how accurite I can make the computer program
match the actual engine performance…
I was building a lot of engines back then. and if I put in good
numbers I could be within less than 2% of what the engine did on an
actual dyno!
Towards the end The only reason I was dynoing engines was to break
them in and check for problems before they went into the race car…
I was basing that $1000 on the current crop of V12 EFI stuff for
sale on e-bay. $200 for a left manifoldm $200 for a right manifold,
then I still have to get injectors, etc and a computer to run all
of it. I am using my last dollar to get the car painted, depending
on how this season goes, I will seriously explore EFI next winter.
Turbo/Supercharging is allowed-I only wish NOS was because I have
–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Thu 31 Mar 2011:
Awesome info, thanks. I am in Manitoba, Canada so not that far from
you. I’m going to see what happens this season then I’ll have a
better idea which direction to go in the off season. I have a buddy
who owns a Brit car repair shop so I just need to put a bug in his
ear if I am looking for a car to strip the efi parts off of.–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Thu 31 Mar 2011:
Mark;
Hunt the junkyard sites as well. My favorite is carparts.com but
pick-n-pull.com and pick-a-part.com also work…
Start now watching the sites… Like I said even junk yards scrap
a lot of good parts. (I got 3 free XJ-S V12’s that way… the parts
sold off them didn’t justify the space required and I knew the
owner)I simply agreed to give him equal scrap weight…
Here’s the trick… when you notice a car has been at a junkyard
for more than a year offer dimes on the dollar for the parts… It’s
still more than they get by crushing a car as long as they don’t
have to pull the parts…
Carparts.com has prices listed… They pull parts for you (and will
ship) … the other two sites are self service. Prices at those
sites are astonishingly cheap! They don’t care if the fuel
injection is off a Ford or a Jaguar… 1 price!
If you get the fuel injection, take the distributor… depending on
the year you’ll also want the ‘‘computer’’ (it’s not really a
computer there isn’t a single chip in the early ones… they are
more like electronic timing devices (a good thing except to techno-
geeks)
I hope you have a Haynes manual. That not only lists the parts
you need, it also has pictures to help you identify them…
Take a big part of the wiring harness. The fewer splices in the
wires the less chance for short for a cold solder joint. Yes in
spite of myths you can splice wires in the system…
It doesn’t take much to match wire color codes… Depending on
your comfort level with wiring you can cut out some surplus
wires… (never eliminate a ground though, if there is one truth I
found with Jagaurs it is that they tend to be the areas of the most
problems)…
If your the type that isn’t comfortable around wiring, don’t
fret… there is bound to be somebody nearby who is reasonable. Heck
he might be willing to trade say a run in the car for sorting out
your wiring for you…
Few more points…
Don’t use solderless connectors! Slide a piece of shrink wrap
tubing over the wire and solder the wires together. Then test and
if there is zero resistance then slide the shrink wrap over the
connection and heat up the shrink wrap.
Get as much of the wiring harness as you can. That will allow
you to stagger connections…Makes a neater wiring package!
Do not assume that any connection is good… you’re working with
wiring that is up to 40 years old. Assembled at a time of labor
unrest… with a company know to be extreme in their frugality…
and a extremely long history of poor wiring… test!–
The original message included these comments:
Awesome info, thanks. I am in Manitoba, Canada so not that far from
you. I’m going to see what happens this season then I’ll have a
better idea which direction to go in the off season. I have a buddy
who owns a Brit car repair shop so I just need to put a bug in his
ear if I am looking for a car to strip the efi parts off of.
–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from marksawatsky sent Thu 31 Mar 2011:
Mark,
One further comment? Please rethink your lack of a front sway bar!
I’m trying to think of any way no sway bar will work and for the
life of me I can’t come up with a solution…
I have an extremely short wheelbase (88 inches) Car that I
autocrossed. I used an inch and a quarter tubular sway bar. Not
only that but the arms were extremely short (guessing, less than 10
inches?). Wickedly fast and nimble…
With as wide as your tires are it’s critically important to keep
them flat in the corner… notice the chamber gain in your front
geometry? any roll at all is going to cut your contact patch to
motorcycle size… Then if you try to elminate roll with stiff
springs, chassis flex will beat you…
I’ve been down the swiss cheese route before… The weight saved
wasn’t worth the added flex. I now use thinner wall material to
save even more weight. That and triangulate, triangulate, and
triangulate…
Surprised you aren’t using the engine as a chassis stiffner…
Plate across the front and one across the rear. Pick up upper and
lower rollcage tubes at suspension pick-up points. Completely
eliminates chassis flex across engine bay. (don’t use transmission
similarly, allow it to move around if you expect it to last)–
MGuar
Wayzata Minnesota, United States
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In reply to a message from MGuar sent Fri 1 Apr 2011:
The general consensus on the D/E Mod discussion group is that sway
bars are only needed on Mod cars to adjust balance. cars that Del
Long has built have won 13 National Solo Championships and he
doesn’t use sway bars at all. My early calculations using this
calculator http://www.racingaspirations.com/?p=292 tell me that my
suspension was softer in the rear, making a rear sway bar
necessary. I have a rear sway bar, it’s a 3/4’’ hollow bar good for
only 75 lb/in spring rate but it’s enough to put my car into
understeer. Since making those calculations, my weight balance has
changed and now my car is softer in the front, I will need a front
bar as well. My chassis had a torsional stiffness of 1600 ft/lbs
per degree and since then I have seem welded it and added braces so
I’m not very worried about chassis stiffness. I also have only 2
1/2’’ of compression on the suspension and the natural frequency is
2.5 Hz, it’s pretty stiff. The front bar is going to have to be
very short so I need to find a good source of custom bars, but
first I need to drive the car and see where I’m at.–
The original message included these comments:
One further comment? Please rethink your lack of a front sway bar!
–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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marksawatsky wrote:
The general consensus on the D/E Mod discussion group is that sway
bars are only needed on Mod cars to adjust balance. cars that Del Long
has built have won 13 National Solo Championships and he doesn’t use
sway bars at all.
I dunno what a D/E Mod is, but there’s more to this story. On any
conventional automobile, running without sway bars would be stupid
and dangerous.
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Tue 5 Apr 2011:
A bit OT but relates to sway bars…
This is where the Land Rover Discovery 2 is a real jewel -
at least those with ‘‘ACE’’ (Active Cornering Enhancement).
ACE is an electronic/hydraulic system whereby the sway bar
function is replaced by an active hydraulic system with a
ram on both front and rear (solid) axles. It has a
hydraulic pump that generates pressure for the rams and
electronic sensors and controllers control valves to keep
the body ‘‘level’’ when on-road. Its quite weird to
experience such a tall and unwieldy vehicle handle like a
go-kart on-road.
When off-road (in low range) valves are opened so that the
sway bar functionality is completely disabled for max
off-road performance and comfort.
The system does add quite a bit of weight to the car though.
Some modern cars have this function integrated in the
shocks now.
Best regards
Philip–
The original message included these comments:
I dunno what a D/E Mod is, but there’s more to this story. On any
conventional automobile, running without sway bars would be stupid
and dangerous.
–
My website: www.jaguardiy.net
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Tue 5 Apr 2011:
D Modified and E Modified are SCCA Auto-x classes and there is a
Yahoo discussion group for them. I guess cars in these classes are
not conventional because only some run even one sway bar. Many race
cars resist roll with stiffer springs and only small sway bars to
adjust balance.–
The original message included these comments:
I dunno what a D/E Mod is, but there’s more to this story. On any
conventional automobile, running without sway bars would be stupid
and dangerous.
–
check out my build http://ultimatemgbbuild.blogspot.com
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marksawatsky wrote:
D Modified and E Modified are SCCA Auto-x classes and there is a Yahoo
discussion group for them. I guess cars in these classes are not
conventional because only some run even one sway bar. Many race cars
resist roll with stiffer springs and only small sway bars to adjust
balance.
Only if they’re running on a flat surface, no dips or bumps. Running
springs stiff enough to eliminate the need for sway bars on a road
course would be stupid, might as well eliminate the suspension
altogether and just bolt the wheels directly to the chassis. And
you’re certainly not saving any weight, as such springs would be
seriously massive.
Many race cars run very small sway bars, but that’s because their CG
is about six inches off the ground, they don’t need much. For the
weight of the car and the height of the CG, their sway bars are very
stiff indeed. When you run tires wider than 8" or so, sway bars are
that much more important, as you have to keep the rubber flat against
the road, not rolling up onto a corner of the tire.
– Kirbert
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