I ran across a quick easy fix for this ‘‘common problem’’ the other
day and thought I’d pass it along. See page 269 of Kirby Palm’s XJ-
S book for more background on the issue. I found an assortment of
replacement door hinge pin bushings at O’reilly’s, and as it turns
out, one of the pairs of bushings is a perfect fit. These are brass
and should last the lifetime of the car. Cost is less than $3. Hope
this helps someone out.–
1989 XJ-S V12
Parkville/MO, United States
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1 Like
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
2
twerth wrote:
I ran across a quick easy fix for this ‘‘common problem’’ the other
day and thought I’d pass it along. See page 269 of Kirby Palm’s XJ- S
book for more background on the issue. I found an assortment of
replacement door hinge pin bushings at O’reilly’s, and as it turns
out, one of the pairs of bushings is a perfect fit. These are brass
and should last the lifetime of the car. Cost is less than $3. Hope
this helps someone out.
Excellent! Two questions:
Part number please – or at least what door hinges the kit is
supposed to fit.
How did you install them? Did you disassemble the linkage and
install them with the flange on the inside so they are trapped and
can’t come out? Or did you install them the easy way, just poked
them in from the rear? And, if the latter, how do you keep them from
falling out?
– Kirbert
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Mon 13 Dec 2010:
The brass tubing you can commonly find in model shops is also an
easy fix. These are sized so that they fit inside eachother snugly,
but still rotate. Just buy two sizes and flesh it out with some
washers.
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In reply to a message from Kirbert sent Mon 13 Dec 2010:
No part number or specific model. This was just an assortment with
four or five different sizes on a card. It was in the aisle with
all the ‘‘Help’’ items (i.e. door handles, brake adjusters, vacuum
tees, etc.).
I’m in the middle of changing cam cover gaskets, so I have
everything disassembled. For me it was easy to install them from
the inside out so they’re trapped. I also installed a couple of
washers with each one so there is no slop (front to back) on the
linkage. It works really well and looks professional. I think this
is how it should have been done in the first place.–
The original message included these comments:
Part number please – or at least what door hinges the kit is
supposed to fit.
How did you install them? Did you disassemble the linkage and
install them with the flange on the inside so they are trapped and
can’t come out? Or did you install them the easy way, just poked
them in from the rear? And, if the latter, how do you keep them from
falling out?
Visit the Jag Lovers homepage at http://www.jag-lovers.org for exciting services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On Line Books and more !
In reply to a message from twerth sent Mon 13 Dec 2010:
T&M hardware also has them, in the nuts and bolts section. no part
no. any ‘‘real’’ hardware store should have an assortment of
brass and nylon bushings. did it a couple years ago so dont evan
remember what it looked like, but I did work as purchased, perfect
fit.–
john rinaman '84 xjs 5 speed
zelienople,pa, United States
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I went to Oreilly’s today and bought the 8 piece door hinge kit. None of the bushing in it fit tight enough for my liking. I instead found this bushing online which I think will be a much better fit;
It is Bunting Part no. EF050806
Flanged Sleeve Bearing,
Inside Dia. (In.) 5/16,
Outside Dia. (In.) 1/2,
Length (In.) 3/8,
Flange Dia. (In.) 11/16,
Flange Thickness (In.) 1/16,
50,000 Max. Pv,
Temp. Range (F) 10 to 220,
SAE 30 Oil Lubrication,
Powdered Metal Bronze (SAE 841),
Package Quantity 3
yeah, I used the rubber OEM type from SNG Barratt. Heated up a bit to make more pliable and easier to force into place.
Some good info in the archives about people developing ways to use brass or whatever and have a “keeper” clip.
I purchased some aftermarket throttle linkage bushings years ago and even after heating them up with my heat gun I was unable to insert them into their openings in the plate. After trying several times I eventually gave up and purchased the OEM bushings from the local Jaguar dealership. The OEM bushings were easy to insert. Clearly the OEM ones were made of a different material. I don’t have the tools or skills to machine the brass ones as suggested by others, and decided that the OEM bushings were the way to go for me.
Paul
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
11
Rubber bushings will work, but I don’t recommend them. Rubber bushings are the traditional choice for throttle linkages dating from the days when a throttle linkage included a shaft that fit a bushing on the firewall at one end and a bushing on the engine at the other. The pedal was connected to a crank near the firewall end and a link to the carburetor was connected to a crank near the other end. With such a setup, the engine could bounce around on its rubber mounts without affecting the throttle position.
The XJ-S does NOT have such a throttle linkage; it uses a cable to connect the pedal on the firewall to the engine. The throttle linkage bushings in question are for a shaft that is securely mounted to the engine at both ends, there is no relative movement and hence no need for them to be rubber. And, of course, as bushing material, rubber is – well, it’s not optimum. Hard plastic or nylon would be better. Sintered bronze would be better. Pretty much any rational material choice would be better. And better is more important than you might think, as having minimal “stiction” in a throttle linkage is a good thing when driving.
Why did Jaguar use a rubber bushing here? Because somebody involved wasn’t thinking. It’s a mistake, pure and simple.
And yeah, replacing the bushing without disassembling the bracket from the back of the intake manifold is difficult. If you can chuck up your new bushing in a drill or lathe, cut a groove around it, slip it in from behind and snap a clip onto it, great. If not, just go ahead and take the bracket off. Then it’s EASY to install the flanged bronze bushing in the photo above, just slip it in and bolt it back together.
I should have searched a bit more, as I ran into the same problem when trying to use the 8 piece door hinge kit (Dorman 3874)
none of the bushes has the right size, and the list on back of the card confirm this
the smallest ID is 8.7mm (either OD being either 1.24cm or 1.25cm, or 1.24cm), the last one is 9.5mm (OD 1.25cm)
I measured the diameter of the shaft, and found 7.92mm , which matches the 5/16 posted above
using one of those would be better than none, but would leave too much play
my car is a 6.0L, MY 93.5 : could Jaguar have changed this from the older cars ?
(I doubt it, but this would explain why some the bushes are fine)
I’ll try and find some brass tubing, or 5/16 brass bushing
thanks Greg for confirming : those are the ones I had in view
ordering from France adds shipping costs, but not too much for once (about 5$)
I’ll try and order 2 or 3 packs if the shipping stays the same
I reckon the doorman kit changed since Kirby’s suggestion
Only thing I’m concerned with, is any corrosion that could cause them to bind.
When converting to these, do they need lubing once a year?
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
17
Nope! The bronze bushing won’t corrode. The shaft might, but moving the throttle every now and again will keep them clean. Of course, it wouldn’t hurt to apply a drop of oil every now and again.
the add say “powered bronze” and " Extra Lubricant with PTFE" so should be safe and last longer than rubber/plastic
same make / product in different size :
For stop, start and slow speed applications 841 EXTRA is the recommended choice. These bearings contain SAE 30 oil with a finely dispersed PTFE. The PTFE in the oil greatly reduces friction and helps to develop a full lubrication film which is especially required on start up. A smoother and quieter operation, an easier “break-in” period and longer life can be achieved.
seems the right choice for our application, I may ask the question about future maintenance (type of oil they recommend)
they also have “dry” range :
No oil for lubrication, therefore cleaner and no out gassing
Able to withstand high heat sources, Approximately 700 F
What if I make a small batch of those bushings from Teflon (PTFE)? With a C-clip for easy installation?
Extremely low friction coefficient, no lubrication needed, resistant at temperature interval ranging from -190c to +250c, good chemical resistance.
Should last for a long time without any maintenance.
good idea : those should be easy to turn on a lathe
I reckon the C-clip is only needed to be able to fit them without taking the rod out, back to front
If removing 3 screws, the end plate gets out and you can insert them front to back
I’ve only fitted the radiator banjo and chain tensionner plug , and I’m about to install the half moons and upper oil banjos : I’m going to need more of our parts soon :
