[v12-engine] V12 head removal tool measurements

I have started making a head removal tool. Piece of steel
cut to size, holes for the main head studs being drilled.
But I need the position of the studs for the cam carrier
with sufficient accuracy. Have anybody already made such a
tool and thus have the measurements ready, or do I have to
go the labourious way of measuring in three dimensions
starting out with a gasket?–
PEXJC
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In reply to a message from PEXJC sent Mon 11 Mar 2013:

I’ve dismantled two V-12’s into their smallest components.

To remove the heads on the fist engine I built a plate such
as you are trying to do and popped the heads. On the second
motor I removed all of the studs first and took the heads off.

My general conclusion is that no matter which way I did it
the studs are going to get damaged, and will have to be
replaced.

It’s faster to remove the studs first and smack the head
with a block of wood and hammer than to eloquently lift the
head off the block.

If you are going to remove the studs then get a good stud
puller device and a long (24’’+) wrecker bar to apply a
steady even torque to the stud puller

Have fun–
The original message included these comments:

with sufficient accuracy. Have anybody already made such a


1987 XJ-S, 1988 XJ-S Tremec TK500. AJ6 Torque kit
Toronto, Canada
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In reply to a message from Repairman sent Wed 13 Mar 2013:

I really wouldn’t do that!

It doesn’t happen too often but I have had studs shear when
trying to remove them. Not nice. If you don’t need to replace
the studs anyway I would stick with a tool to pull the head
off. I have used mine on many occasions (and it has been
loaned at least a dozen times) with no damage to any studs.

Here is a link to the tool I use:

http://tinyurl.com/c6cb9e3--
The original message included these comments:

It’s faster to remove the studs first and smack the head
with a block of wood and hammer than to eloquently lift the
head off the block.


Neville - http://www.XJ13.eu, XJ13 in-progress.
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In reply to a message from V12 Racer sent Wed 13 Mar 2013:

Yep, I’m using a similar tool:

[http://www.flickr.com/photos/94019258@N08/sets/72157632985463539/]

Can send you the drawing in MS Visio if you want.

BR
Philip–
My website: www.jaguardiy.net
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In reply to a message from jagwit sent Wed 13 Mar 2013:

OK, so that link threw a tantrum, lets try this:

BR
Philip–
My website: www.jaguardiy.net
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Neville,

I am wondering if you intend replicating the ZF transaxle / upper driveshaft
link, with its associated problems, or whether you will allow the addition
of an upper link and sliding driveshaft?

I wondered also whether the original bolt pattern on the 4 cam was the same
as the later bolt pattern (to the bell housing).

And while I am wondering … how about the front hub carrier. Is there a
stiffer option that you can use other than the standard e-type. Ie Is the
XJS carrier stiffer and appropriate?

Rgds
Mark

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In reply to a message from PEXJC sent Mon 11 Mar 2013:

Hi
I have just removed the heads on my V12 cobra by using three
of the DIY tools described in Kirbert,s book that I made
myself.
The secret before pulling the head is to unstick the head
studs from the head.
This is accomplished by removing the dome head nuts and
putting on a hex nut to protect the stud threads
Use RTV silicon from a cartridge gun to create a small dam
around the head stud to retain penetrating plus gas fluid
clean the surfaces with degreasing liquid first.
Fill the dam with plus gas penetrating fluid to soak the
stud overnight
Use an air hammer with a fork attachment on the stud nut to
vibrate the head stud in the head applying more plus gas
until the stud can be seen to move slightly from side to
side.
Assemble the head removal tools and use as per Kirbert,s
book
I removed both heads using this method without any problems
or damage.
I have uploaded a picture to my album to show the method
Hope this helps
Peter–
The original message included these comments:

I have started making a head removal tool. Piece of steel


v12jag cobra
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In reply to a message from v12jag cobra sent Wed 13 Mar 2013:

The dimentions with a drawing for the head jacking tool is
available on page 75 of Kirby Palm’s Help for the XJS Owner
available on the Jag-Lovers site. You will need four if the studs
have a lot of crud just using two will strip out.

The tools bolt onto the Cam Shaft Bearings along the top of the
head.–
Michael J.
Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, United States
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In reply to a message from Mark Eaton sent Wed 13 Mar 2013:

Hi Mark

I am exactly replicating the upper driveshaft link. Although there
were some problems early in development, these were solved by 1967
by the use of a different mounting arrangement for the ZF output
shafts. I was lucky enough to come across a pair of original XJ13
ZF output shafts which I had modified so they now take advantage of
the improvements made in 1967.

The bolt pattern on the 4-cam is completely different to the later
5.3 (and 6.0) litre blocks (unfortunately for me!).

There is no reason to believe the E-Type front hub carrier wasn’t
up to the job. There were no associated problems during testing. It
also means I can mount the steering rack using the upright mounts
present on the S1 uprights and so was able to replicated the
steering geometry of the original. Besides, I want to stay as close
to the original as possible.–
Neville - http://www.XJ13.eu, XJ13 in-progress.
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In reply to a message from jagwit sent Wed 13 Mar 2013:

Nice Philip. If you also add the socket head screws I have on mine
you will have the perfect (and very effective) tool. My tool has
been used on over 20 different engines now and works a treat.

The screws bear down on the tops of the rods that sit on the studs
and take up any slight variance between lengths of protruding studs
(which does seem to happen regularly - even on factory-built
engines) - either left-to-right or on the same side.

My tool is with a friend at the moment but I do plan to draw it up
in CAD and will make the drawing available via this forum. With
laser-cutting of 3/4 steel plate from CAD files both readily-
available and relatively cheap it should be easy to fabricate a
similar tool for little cost.

One thing I want to do is add holes for a range of different heads.
Although the flat tappet chest cover on the V12 lends itself to the
use of such a tool, does anyone think I would be asking for trouble
if I drilled mounting holes at an angle so it could pull heads off
6-cyl XK engines with the same tool?–
Neville - http://www.XJ13.eu, XJ13 in-progress.
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In reply to a message from V12 Racer sent Thu 14 Mar 2013:

does anyone think I would be asking for trouble

if I drilled mounting holes at an angle so it could pull heads

off 6-cyl XK engines with the same tool?

Thinking about it … yes, I think I WOULD be asking for trouble!–
Neville - http://www.XJ13.eu, XJ13 in-progress.
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In reply to a message from V12 Racer sent Thu 14 Mar 2013:

As promised, I have drawn my tool in CAD (SolidWorks 2010). I can
export into whatever format you need if you want a copy for free -
email me off-list if you are interested.

There are lots of laser-cutting companies online who can take a dxf
(or dwg) file and cut out the two steel plates for you (complete
with all holes). All you then need do is assemble the nuts/socket-
head screws/threaded-bar etc and weld the threaded bar into the
bottom plate.

http://tinyurl.com/cprftut

http://tinyurl.com/blzuxbc--
Neville - http://www.XJ13.eu, XJ13 in-progress.
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In reply to a message from V12 Racer sent Fri 22 Mar 2013:

I should add the holes for the adjusting socket-head screws are
sized for a 7/16’’ UNF tap so you will need to tap these as well.

I have drawn 20mm plate for the top and bottom plates but you may
be able to get away with slightly thinner steel (if you haven’t
eaten enough spinach to lift 20mm plates).–
Neville - http://www.XJ13.eu, XJ13 in-progress.
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In reply to a message from V12 Racer sent Fri 22 Mar 2013:

have a v12 head puller jig which I would be glad to part with - it
is extraordinarily effective- heavy at 37 lbs but very easy to use-
will send pics if you would like–
whattrouble?
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Hi Philip
Do you still have the Visio Drawing of your head removal tool is there any chance of a copy I need to make the tool to remove the heads on my 6.0 XJR-S

I should have. Will have a look. Please send an email address in the mean time.

Hi Philip

Thanks

Its colingoode2000@yahoo.co.uk

Herewith the drawing for my head tool. I’ve attached a pdf file for the head puller here. The drawings is a long way off proper engineering drawings, but these got my tool made somehow. I offer NO GUARANTEE as to the accuracy of the dimensions and I DO ENCOURAGE anyone using these drawings to CHECK THE DIMENSIONS first. Even on my own tool, I could see that some holes were a bit off but not so much as to present a problem. (I only had a 1m ruler to measure with…)

The drawing shows holes for both top and bottom plates as viewed from above. Blue and purple go only in bottom plate. Red and orange go both in top and bottom plates but is threaded in top plate only (requires smaller holes to be drilled in top plate).

The Yellow bolts pulls the lower plate towards the upper one and the Red studs push through the bottom plate on the head studs. The 4 nuts between the two plates is only to prevent your fingers from being squashed between the two plates.

Any questions, please ask.

Visio-head pullers v3 shared.pdf (156.3 KB)

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I don’t know the age or condition of your engine but Neville is very correct. If you are here in the US, you might want to check the Misc. ads for “Merida” it is very simple and works well.
The Studs really are the quandary. Best, JW

Hi guys,
I used a single plate version of the plate that is shown in Phillips post.
It worked a treat and is simpler and cheaper to make.
If you used the dimensions from Phillips bottom plate you would be away. Use high tensile threaded rod to avoid problems.

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