Those are awful. It’s never good to use individual filters, because each one has to be sized for the entire flow of that inlet. If you couple three, six, or even all 12 of them within the same filter, the same filter area serves all the inlets at different times. Much more efficient. I think K&N makes a racetrack-shaped filter that neatly surrounds all six inlets on one bank.
And those don’t look like filters, they look like screens. That’s not good either.
Yea you’re right, I just grabbed a quick photo from google didnt look close enough 
good to know though, Like with the manual transmission stuff I am going to have to learn a lot of stuff in order for this to work. But thats what I like about it.
Ok I just got the throttle bodies in, and it looks like I will be able to use the factory bosch v12 injectors with literally no modifications!!! 
I also 3D printed some intake adaptors for mocking it all up.
Sweeeet! Are you gonna use two long through bolts to hold both the throttle body and the adapter to the head? Or are you gonna countersink the holes in the adapters and hold them to the head with short socket head screws?
Not sure yet, I’m going to try a variety of methods out and see which is best. for now though I am going to make a 2 piece 3D printed clamp that lets me use the original studs to hold it on so I can start making the throttle linkages. i’m going to try and model that stuff this week .
Slightly odd request but can anyone take a measurement for me? I want to know th clearance between the top of the stock intake manifold and the hood. I know it will be tight for ITB’s so I am trying to decide if I can get away with vertical ITB’s even if I have to modify the cross member to sink the engine down a little, or do I need to lean the ITB’s over like the Jenvey kit (https://store.jenvey.co.uk/throttle-body-kits/jaguar/jaguar-v12-e-type-sf45-kit-ckjr04-kit)
Ok well, It looks like I probably won’t be able to run an air filter… but it looks like I can fit these ITB’s under the hood. But I do know that the intake runner needs to be much longer in order to work well. I am thinking that I will have to lean it over. It is entirely possible I have bitten off more than I can chew.
Another Idea would be to cut off the plenum from the stock intake manifold and mount the ITB’s on the end of the OEM intake runners, thus giving me “proper” runner length and clearance for an air filter
Those things look pretty short. I don’t think you’ll have any trouble provided you don’t put tall horns on the intakes.
You’ll want to construct a box of sorts around the ITB’s to hold a racetrack-shaped air filter. Once all the air inside that box is filtered, the intakes themselves can be right up to within an inch or less of the top cover.
You do understand, I presume, that the arrangement you’re working on will really suck at low-end torque. It’s a setup for high revs.
Yea, I assumed that it would be pretty bad down low. What do you think of my idea to chop off the plenum on the factory intake and put the ITB’s on each runner? that way you get good torque and more room for air filters and velocity stacks/horns.
That’d work, especially if you make sure they’re all the same length; the outer end runners are a tad longer on the OEM intakes. Still, I wouldn’t go that way because it’d look too much like the stock setup and would probably perform pretty much the same as well.
Yea, I really like the look of vertical ITB’s kinda like webers. Unless I did something like this Toyota V12 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iyw20RCk8Yo that looks pretty cool imho.
Thats where I fell off on the Porsche dipper at .31in my XJR its a circuit called Hampton Downs just south of Auckland
or maybe a single large TB, each bank with long runners, and large plenums to give it easier tuning, more low /mid range torque!
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or this setup worked well at Daytona 24 hr races, SLIDE Plate throttles, made of Magniseum weight saving!
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or this setup.
.Those last 2 look great!.. But they cant fit under the hood which is a requirement for me. Thanks for the suggestions though!
Have you considered how to provide vacuum to the brake booster with the ITB’s?
Bill White put together a similar setup, and he connected a tiny tube – looked almost capillary, like 1/16" or so – at the base of each ITB. Connected all 12 to a vacuum storage tank, making sure all 12 tubes were the same length. Ran everything that needed vacuum from the tank. He noted that you cannot just pull vacuum from one of those intakes because it’ll screw up its resonance and that cylinder will run completely differently than the other 11.
Might be easier just to buy a 12V vacuum pump.
Yup I was going to do exactly that. I’ll probably add another set for idle control or i’ll just adjust it like bikes do a physically open the throttle bodies a little like a Carb.
On DKW’s, at least the cars, it would not have worked to have it on the tranny, and the 4-speed on the tree worked pretty well.
On the MUNGA–4WD–the same tranny was close enough tot the floorboard, they did put a shifter on the 'box: unfortunately, the gate near the 'box was about 2 square inches, and by the time it translated up to the shift knob, it was about like the Volvos!
