Value and collectibility question

My experience has been repros of the body parts that rust out are generally available or can be shop fabbed of you have the tools, time and ability, but expect many, many hours of labour. Repros of many of the chrome pieces are also available, though the quality is variable. Better to have originals and a good plater to send them to. Many smaller parts are hard to find and expensive, so how complete the car is should be reflected in the price.

The answer to your question goes to your motivation. Will it be a labour of love that you will enjoy then keep, or are you thinking about cashing out at some point? The upshot is a fully and well restored ‘54 XK120SE roadster will fetch maybe $150K or less but could cost you more than that to get right, in which case the true price of admission may well be a negative number. What it’s worth is relative to what you see in it.

Was wondering after hearing all the great answers here, does an all original in excellent condition with very low milage and only thing done is a repaint of original color worth more than the restored?

Those are sometimes known as “preservation” cars, depending on how much can be documented as original.
Market price is always whatever a seller and a buyer can agree to.

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I have two other restorations going now, I know it takes deep pockets and time. The xk would be cleaned and put in my basement until the other two are done (2-5 years). so the question is will there be others out there for less money to start a project, or is this something I should jump on now? Even in the shape of the XK now I consider it a work of art and just seeing it every day would make me happy. she does still have the side curtains and roof, her husband did start to take it apart so kind of a basket case, but only 3-5 baskets ,lol.

lotsa variation…restorable cars as well as in cost to restore…so much “depends” what is there, condition, what needs to be done, and if the restore is to be complete, nut and bolt, body off, engine rebuilt…and all back to 99.99 Concours…(there is always that something)…lets say a car with most “still there” is $45K USD…and it costs 15K for engine, 10 K for other mechanicals -gear-brakes-clutch -cooling. 6 K just for interior soft kit, 5 K more for rest of interior and install, bodywork??? paint? wheels and tires…how much labor your self, how much paid to a shop at $70-$120 hr (todays rate range), how many hours? 250 hrs? $25,000? Is it $80K to restore or 120K? what will the value be in 10 yrs? up-down-same? say it is a near concours car at $115K ?? Other ones may come along…find one that has as much going for it as possible…but no reason to pay for things you will re-do anyway.
Nick





some finds…
Nick
and on the trailer, reported to be 670083 as found

Red OTS is 660123, I believe.

Sorry, but do those numbers refer to? “670083” & “660123”

Alloy cars. They’re always about double and greater the current price of whatever other '120s are selling for due to their rarity, all aluminum bodies built over an ash frame, etc.

fro Simon Kayatt…those are chassis numbers…commonly used to identify a car…and will indicate body type (Open two seat -OTS, or DHC is drop head coupe, or FHC=fixed head coupe (hard top) and right hand or left hand drive etc. when preceeded by an S it is the special equipment car=hi lift cam and most noticeably wire wheels. Listings of chassis numbers with year and type are found in the back of many of the XK books. Nick`



Well Let me introduce you to 675179, engine, body matching could not find chassis number at this time.

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May I ask how much was this car in this condition without any restoration.

Best,
Simon

So is it still in the seller’s garage? Or yours?
Appears to have originally been pastel green, non-metallic being correct for a '54 car.
The chassis number is located on the left hand chassis rail by the master cylinder.
chassis ID 007a

Interesting that it already has a page on xkdata that was created for it in 2006. You can add information and pictures to that page.
h ttp://xkdata.com/cars/detail/?car=675179

that chassis number may be where shown…or may be where the arrow is in the pic…or just a bit further ahead…often gunk obscures…
Nick

IF…now yours…or for whomever…if it has not been run, engine turned etc for a long time…ask lots of questions here before doing anything…and seach archives here for starting up and what to do after a long storage/layup. Many steps and checks…especially for engine so as to not damage. Nick

Yea: we can refer the OP to @c1nicole:persevere:

Still, In the seller garage. I saw this car 3 years ago, all I saw was the tail light at the time. Finally got her to sell it. I hope it will be coming home this weekend.

if your are now the new owner…congrats and yippee…another one to be put right and on the road ! Consult here often…if you did not check for the engine to turn…by hand…then…don’t… until checking in here…lotsa willing help here. on everything…it looks like a great car to restore.
Nick

now that I am a owner of a xk120, what kind of restoration should I do, back to original (concours), better than original (no over spray, better gaps ect.) or driver (paint what ever color I want, disk brakes other up grades? I know I am now going off topic but, who sells quality sheet metal for the xk 120?

A) check bank account
B) choose.

As for availability of tin parts, I’ll leave that to more experienced members.