Video...Engine Strip Part 4


(Jim XK140 FHC) #1

I spent 3 hours at CES today . Really useful for me , very helpful , just one complaint , no biscuits !
I think all is ok to rebuild as is ? I just need to check the original crank size spec and that of the piston?bore clearance.
Looking into shells , apparently there are two types, lead coated copper or aluminium . Which ones are best ?
Jim


(Paul Wigton) #2

Never heard of aluminum shells: for ages the bast majority—and Jaguar included— used babbitted copper ones.

Just be sure to install the shells, in the block and in the rods, unlubricated on the backside.


(Eric Capron) #3

Jim,

Looks like a nice machine shop. Interesting video. If it were my engine, I’d check the balance, clean up the pistons, fit a new set of rings and put it all back with some new shells. But then I’m really quite mean. You could have bored oversize and ground undersize but I it looks too good for that.

I think babbitting maybe a US term for what we call white metal. I’ve never heard it before but I think the material must be the same, basically an alloy of tin, lead antimony and copper (mostly tin).

Are you going to do more about cleaning the crud out of the block?

Eric


(Mike Spoelker) #4

For the main bearings I used King engine bearings. They were the closest I could find to the original tri-metal style. The part number was CMB711810. I use Clevite 77 bearings for the rod bearings.


(Jim XK140 FHC) #5

Thanks Fellas
I have poked scraped and flushed the block and gone as far as I can DIY . I have reverse flushed the radiator and I will try to get my mini camera in it to look at the tubes . I thought then use a coolant flush in the hole system .
I think I should replace the crank damper as that rubber can’t be much good now . Not sure yet about using the old clutch . If replace it I will modify for 9 1/2" . I am hopeless at making these decisions but have to sort this if I am going to to have it balanced .
I think all major internal parts are original . Wear and tear etc will have changed things somewhat but will the balance be miles out from when it left the factory ?


(Paul Wigton) #6

Likely not, but it’s small beans to have it rebalanced.


(Eric Capron) #7

And, it’s quite possible that your engine has been rebuilt in the past (although it does all look nice and original) but why take the chance?


(Jim XK140 FHC) #8

Yes , fair point , I will get it balanced


(Rob Reilly) #9

Love that Flex-Hone for doing the cylinder bores.
Babbit is the alloy family used in bearings, invented by Isaac Babbit of Taunton Massachusetts in 1839. The term babbit is preferred over the term white metal because the latter term may refer to various bearing alloys, lead- or tin-based alloys, or zinc die-casting metal. In the early days they were poured into the rods but Jaguars always used shell inserts.


(Lee140FHC) #10

I see you haven’t yet removed the rear coolant core plug, the drain tap or the main oil galley plugs. I would buy another dowel main stud to help locate the head upon reassembly…the head actually has 4 locations where a dowel stud can be used. I used 2 to locate the head, and made up another 2 to locate the Cometic gasket I used.


(Jim XK140 FHC) #11

Will do . Thanks for the tips

Jim


(Roger King) #12

My brother, a production engineer for Rolls-Royce industrial turbines, argues that it shouldn’t be called a Diesel at all…