Washer fluid hose disconnected just under dash 420G

Trying to get my washer jets working, I managed to pull out the nozzle, bezzle, and brass 45 degree hose out from the top, and the hose accidentally popped back down into the tiny hole under the sheetmetal

I cannot access it, and the minimum appears to be remove A pillar, curved side wood, and top rail

Removing Speedo may help

I suspect most of the Sedans have a similar set up ?

In addition, I see the flow rate appears low, with the Lucas pump motor

Are they always this weak and weazy ?

I took a few apart and got them working, the one in the car must need the same,
I replaced the motor with one of my spares

Any tips on getting th hose back on the, and getting the bezel back over the wiper shaft, with the angled brass hose (which is threaded ) looks like it will not be straight forward

I have now cleared the small hole, with .015" guitar string, a pin was too thick, it flows air wen I blow through it

Hi Tony,
I think you’ve answered your own question here:
“I see the flow rate appears low, with the Lucas pump motor.”
Purists will be aghast, but I always upgrade my washer pumps with new, aftermarket units. Just depends on whether you want it to remain “original” or if you want it to work well. :slightly_smiling_face:
All the best,
Jay

Hard to judge, the Lucas and Trico pumps I know work well enough, the windshield gets wet, don’t need more.
The new replacements from India blast out more and last the same.
Often when the rubber impellers fail (if that is such a pump, don’t know) they bypass more and more, the jet becomes weaker. I wouldn’t block the line to see if it stalls because that may eat up the rubber. You could blow through and see if there’s resistance (although that’s not a good test either if just one or two showels fail, you might never know).

Mine has only ever delivered a 2ft squirt onto the driver side (perfect), and dribble at best from PS

The motors are ridiculously loud.

I first need to dismantle the system, and render it fully operational

If none of the spares I have generate enough pressure, I may add a hidden external pump, nestled down in there, but retain the original washer bottle, lid and pump housing

It only needs to reach screen mid height

getting sprayed by the car in front of me at the stop lights is ridiculous

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Tony,
I’ve done this recently.
Actually its quite involved, and I did it from the outside as well so as to make sure of a secure leakproof fit between the tubing and the brass bent piece.
It involves dash off, heater bulkhead ducts removed, loosening the wheelboxes and rack connections, glove box and instrument panel removed for proper access.
Best I talk you through it, if that helps.
Nick

Thanks Nick,

I am pleased to advise for anyone in future that I devised a cunning & successful method to get around the problem (thankfully)

In fact, it could have been done without removing anything !

Swing down the Instrument panel and you will be able to see the wheel box.

The gap is very small, and I could not get fingers in, nor see the thin water hose

( I will come back to this)

Next I removed the RH A-pillar wood completely, loosened the RH curved side wood, and removed 3 nuts from the top rail

This allowed me better access, but you are still blocked by the defroster vents

Things are looking grim at this stage, but I managed to get a visual on the hose, and realized I could make a small wire hook, and snagged it back into the behind instrument panel area

Now, a moment of true inspiration, I fed a 1.4mm wire down from the outside, finangled it into the right spot, down the throat of the water line, a neat tape, and was able to pull the wire back, grab the water line with needle nose pliers and pull it up through the very tight hole

Assembled it all with tiny O-rings

New motor runs strongly, but water does not make it to the 3 way (plastic) T-junction (located right behind all the wiring)

So the next stage is to work out why that is

It hopefully isnt much. I have about 6 original correct units and I got the motors working by just cleaning them internally

They all make a racket. I wonder if the impellor inside them gets worn and reduces suction/head.

Do you have any comments on original systems working Nick ?

If needed I will place a universal motor in their somewhere,

This could probably be done leaving it looking original in 2 ways I can think of

(The easiest would be to place a Universal pump upstream, hidden away, original unit would remain the same in appearance)

what you can do is not remove anything, fish around blind until you snag the water line with wire hook to get back into cabin, so you can do the rest.

If I made that sound easy, it isnt, but much better than the alternative

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So it is all back together and working

The LH one spurts 3" which at least means it works, the RH one is very wonky.

Think I may have damaged it as the nozzle unthreads from the union, I will rummage about my spares

An inline pump is almost a dead cert, I tried a very old universal item I had laying around, unfortunately it has a busted spigot, but it ejected many times the water the OEM Lucas unit.

I think the Lucas will serve ok as a primer, with the extra pump totally hidden on the inner wing

Not one originality freak will ever know, the original will still buzz away :smiley:

@nick_banks I will send you a PM some time soon, might be helpful to discuss, thanks for the offer

I am trying to move quickly to once and for all have a windscreen washer system that works well

So I have ordered this Universal pump $15

This “comment” left by a buyer convinced me to hit the “buy” button :rofl:

This pump was advertised as a transfer pump, but on installing it into a 1972 E type Jaguar we found out that unlike some other pumps that will only pump this one would draw liquid as well as pump,very good value.

When it arrives, I will plumb the original line into it, and connect a short line from the OEM, hopefully that will torbo charge the pressure

Here is a picture of some spare parts I located that shows the 3 parts, brass line that screws in, jet that screws in, and body

The one on the far left has near perfect chrome, they are mazak, and bubble.
It also has the jet mounted firmly in the body.

My existing RH one is loose and wobbly

This would be a definite upgrade :smiley: but i would have to risk extracting the original water hose back outside the body :grimacing:

As the other one appears to be now defective, I have little choice

The system seems to have some issues, its not easy to get flow through, I presume some engineer designed the back pressure

Yes I like to retain original systems and parts wherever possible

After a good chat with @nick_banks, I have done some further work on the original system and am pleased to report it can shoot water several feet now

I have yet to install my spare jet & nozzle assembly to replace the somewhat damaged RH unit, but will take pics when I do to demonstrate the “wire through hole” procedure

The aftermarket “universal” washer motor was no good, so I took the time to overhaul the original Lucas washer motor, its much larger than the universal

I have a few spares and they all give the most awful squeal, and Nick tipped me to lube the bushings the shafts ride in, I also polished the shafts, stator and brushes

I was rewarded with not only much greater pump power, but it now makes a Jaguar- like lower pitched growling sound that just says power :grinning:

Its a bit tricky to assemble the motor, there is some trick, took me a while to figure out, but I have forgotten already :thinking:

Tony,
Happy to be of help.
Somewhere I have a Lucas workshop instructions manual for the wiper motor which is a useful addition to the MK10 FSM.
I’ll post it if I can locate it.

An update with promised pictures to guide anyone in future that runs into the problem that they extract the squirter body from the vehicle, for various reasons, and find it pulls the thin water hose off, leaving it disappeared under the cowl

This will be the way around the problem without major disassembly

One issue is the hole in the body is just as tight as the expanded hose over the squirter brass pipe, so it will almost certainly pull of, unless you are very lucky

Disconnect your battery

feed the thin wire down the hole, male a loop to ensure it dies not pull through

wiggle it around till it emerges in the area shown in the next pic

This is accessed by letting down the instrument panel, and feeling up around the area of the wiper wheelbox

In this pic you can see the yellow water hose has been pulled through

This is done using another piece of wire, much thicker, about 12" long, and with a hook formed to hook the tube and get it into an area you can work with it

You will not be able to reach it with fingers, and barely see it, so its a true fishing expedition

feed the wire into the hose and make a warp of tape to secure it. Only one wrap around the hose, or it will not fit throught the hole.

work the hose back into its space at the correct angle

make sure its not crossed up before attempting to thread it back, the purple wire should be disconnected for space, and the battery, as if the metal wire touches the always live terminal, you will see your thin wire become incandescent :grimacing:

gently pull on the wire, and work the tube up through the hole

I ended up trimming the last 1/4" of the hose, as its expanded diameter did not want to pass

The first pic shows how to assemble. Replacement truly is a reverse of removal, so pay attention

After this full overhaul of the system, the motor is quiet and powerful, and the water jets now ejaculate, if thats the correct word, ~ 3ft, up from 3"

Aimed them to hit 3/4 the way up the screen

I would advise be careful what fluid you put in the washer bottle, as the jets are only 0.020" in diameter, and any mineralisation will cause them to deteriorate in performance

I made a thin paper gasket, and semi hard setting sealant around the base of the squirter, wiper post, and hose hole

I also replaced the squirter with one that worked better, and had much better chrome, the hold down nut was also a better one :smiley:

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