Water in all 6 cylinders

Although 4+ years ago the engine in our ’67 4.2 OTS had been totally rebuilt by an experienced jag engine guy fewer than 1,000 miles ago, I recently noticed a significant amount of steam coming from both tailpipes.

It got to a point where so much water was entering the cylinders that the engine would not start. I drained the cooling system and dried out the cylinders. Before replacing the water, it started right up and ran well. I refilled the water, started her up. She ran for about 3 minutes before the steam reappeared exiting both pipes.

Considering the low mileage and that the Jag has been covered in a temperature-controlled garage with antifreeze testing to +4º F since the rebuild, I’m hoping replacing the intake manifold gasket will be the remedy and not the head gasket.

I’ve pulled the carbs and intake manifold but surprised to see that the rebuild guy used a significant amount of ‘rubbery’ gasket sealer on both sides of the intake gasket.

Three questions:
1. Now that I’ve removed the old intake gasket and sealer, should I use sealer on the new gasket (both sides) and if so, what kind?
2. The gasket has different colors on each side. Should I care which goes against the Intake manifold?
3. Other ideas on how water got in there as well on how this could have happened are welcomed.
4. Assuming there is a torque setting for the manifold bolts, what is it?

Thank you JagLovers!

It would have been useful to pressurize the cooling system with a cooling system pressure tester, remove all the spark plugs, and put a hose down into each cylinder to hear if it was the head gasket leaking…

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Thank you but too late for that. I’ll follow your advice if the intake gasket doesn’t solve it. Should I use gasket sealer for the intake or better bare? If so, which is best? Although I don’t know how I’d use a torque wrench on the intake manifold, is that necessary? Thanks again.

Some sort of thin gasket sealant like copper coat or Hylomar doesn’t hurt. I never used a torque wrench on them but those studs are all about 15 to 18 foot pounds of torque.

You could do a reverse check: use an air fitting in each individual spark plug hole, with that particular cylinder at top dead center, and listen to the cooling system to hear any leaks that way.

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A leakdown test could also be helpful to r/o a bad head gasket.

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Good stuff, Paul
Will do the sealer and pressure test next week.
Thank you,
Bert

No, I just make it very tight using a 6-8" spanner. What’s more important is that you retighten al of them a few times after the first few hot/cool cycles You’ll shake your head wondering how they got loose again, but they do. Every one will go 1/8 turn tighter. Every fastener on the engine is like this. If you haven’t been doing it like this, it’s possible that’s where your problems started.

Cometic gaskets seal better and require no sealant. It’s all I use now.

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I had a similar but not identical issue after new purchase and engine rebuild. After two tries with gaskets and sealants I discovered it would not seal.I had to have the intake manifold machined flat. Coolant was being sucked into the engine and could actually be seen in the carb throats. All good now.

Is there any evidence of water in the oil?

Thank you.
You ‘guys’ are the best!
Bert
‘67 OTS

Me too! Found water in the carb from leaking gasket. Best advise is to remove manifold and flat face with files?? ALSO use a thread chaser on your the manifold studs. Makes reinstall SOOOOO much easier.

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I like to remove the studs with double nut locked , now its easier to clean the head surface. Seems like everything ends up needing a die and or tap to clean the threads. I reuse the bolts ,studs and nuts whenever possible.

Hi Michael,
Filing the manifold did not work for me as it is a long piece. ( it may work for you ) There was corrosion but you could see the warp.I found fitting and removing the manifold and SU’s three times was a tad tiresome. I used new gaskets AND sealer each time and it did not seal until it was machined flat.



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It can definitely be refaced, just not easily at home. A good engine machine shop can do it in a jiff same way they do heads and blocks and from the looks of yours I’d be doing exactly that. You have direct paths of corrosion linking the water ports and intake. Every last bit need not be removed, but you need very clearly delineated lines of unblemished aluminum between all the holes

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Was the head re torqued after a few heat cycles?