So is it pretty easy to rebuild this Water Pump? I’ve never done one before. I would at least be able to grab quality parts.
It’s about the same as rebuilding any water pump, I would think. That means you need a puller to get the pulley and the impeller off, and a press to put them back on. Given those items, pretty easy. I did mine with no puller and ended up breaking my impeller, which led to me using a Chevy impeller.
If you rebuild your own, not only can you use that better seal with the Viton diaphragm, you can also use a gortex sandwich gasket between the housing halves.
1 Like
And what do you make of some original bearings having a small hole and new ones not?
I guess it was a different thread where I explained that recently. To recap: I think the original setscrew had a little pin on the tip that fit into that hole, positively preventing the bearing from moving in the housing. You could screw in a zerk and grease it, but that wasn’t necessarily a good idea. Later bearings had a flat rather than the hole, which I guess means you should either grind the pin end off the setscrew or get a different setscrew.
The Jaguar water pump bearing is installed in an aluminum housing while Chevy and other makes of the time generally pressed it into cast iron. So perhaps Jaguar was concerned it could slip and wanted to make sure.
1 Like
Industrial standard? Hadn’t thought about the seals being anything other than automotive specific. Most motorcycles nowadays are water cooled. Each manufacturer has special tools to pull and seat the mechanical seals. Some are very nifty in that they get into small spaces and very little disassembly is needed.
Perhaps there are some industrial tools for tight spaces available for seals that fit the V12 engine. I liked your post for using a plumber wrench. I removed a stubborn A/C fitting with your device. It did not eliminate scrapped knuckles and cursing but it did minimize it.
I don’t know if it’s done much in automotive… but has anyone experienced using electric pumps
Yes, apologies, I found that thread. Sorry you had to repeat it again. Stuck with that poxy EAC2655 hose now, as it’s totally unobtainable in the UK and the angle of the elbow is too tight for just a regular 25mm or whatever ID that is to use just generic hose. AND the UK doesn’t have places like Carquest or Pep Boys or whatnot with hundreds of possible configurations hanging from the wall to try your luck. Not to mention I can’t find the Feba filters or a decent alternative. No home mechanic culture. Anyway, I digress.
I don’t know if it’s done much in automotive… but has anyone experienced using electric pumps
Got an E pump on the HE engine in the 79 coupe. Plus E fans of course.
Not a stroll in the park. You need make a blanking plate to cover the OEM pump area. Then make brackets to mount the E pump, and search for hoses you can cut down to fit it all together.
On top of that you need a totally new arrangement of belt to drive the Alternator, aircon and PS pump.
I did it with the engine out while rebuilding it. A lot of time and effort involved. It does clean up the front of the engine and changing the E pump and single drive belt is much easier than dealing with the OEM setup.
As I understand it, this is one way to go electric. Another is to just use the OEM water pump but drive it with an electric motor with its own belt drive rather than drive it off the crank.
I have a BMW with an electric pump. Wish it didn’t. A belt driven water pump usually gives you warning when it’s about to fail, either by weeping coolant, or a noisy bearing. They normally don’t fail catastrophically and leave you stranded, if you are paying attention. An electric pump just fails and quits working. You aren’t going anywhere. The BMW pumps generally are known to fail between 75,000 and 125,000 miles. I changed mine proactively at 75,000 because I didn’t want it to fail on a long trip, and it was a royal PITA. You’d think they’d make it easy to change since they could mount it anywhere, but they didn’t.
I’ve never heard of or seen a belt driven electric pump for a car. Not saying they don’t exist, but not a common solution.
Here ya go:
Interesting. I love the claims:
-
Alleviates Power Drag
-
Does Not Drain Horsepower
Some people will believe anything.
There’s no such thing as a free lunch. It has to get its power from somewhere. And converting engine energy to electrical via the alternator and back again via the motor by definition will have more power losses than than powering it directly, assuming it’s turning the pump at the same RPM. The only way it could consume less power is, if in a high engine RPM situation, the pump can safely cool the engine at a lower RPM. This design still requires a drive belt, with it’s attendant losses and complication, so why bother? Dumb, dumb, dumb.
Most OE electric pumps have smart controllers, varying the pump rpm based on need. I don’t see that here.
What do you know, there is even a kit for it.
Not much advantage for the average XJ-S V12.
The point raised by jal5678 about the BMW E pump prone to sudden failure is a good one.
As it turned out the E pump I put on my V12 started leaking through the seal very quickly. It was actually made here in Melbourne. I phoned the factory and spoke to the owner.
He explained the early pumps ( like mine ) had a problem with a silicon loaded seal that would distort and leak if the pump was left lying around for 6 months or so after leaving the factory. In my case I bought it 2 years before it was used. He offered to send me a new pump with bomb proof seal for $30 so that was O.K. It has been on the car 20 years now but not seen much mileage.
The E pump is just under the Tefba filter on the mid RHS of the photo.
There lower rad hose to the pump was not fitted at that stage, and there are other items changed since the photo was taken. That single PK belt can be changed without moving anything else. The E pump would take about 20 minutes to remove after the coolant is drained enough.
I checked my notes and the pump is a Davies Craig EWP80 rated 80L/min at 13.5V.
When I tested it at 14.5V it was drawing 7.5A = 108W = 0.15HP.
Instead of using a Davies Craig controller I let it run at full speed above 1500RPM, and below switch a series resistor to drop the current to 5A.
One time I did some experimenting and the most critical aspect of the cooling system is how much air you can get through the rad, assuming the pump and rad combination is up to scratch and circulating a decent amount of coolant.
