@sawyer10702
I know, right?! Undecided consciously whether I have time for this crap now, yet unconsciously I continue on autopilot going through all the motions…I guess I’m doing this!
Appreciate the well wishes!
@Frank_Andersen
Yes, of course this is well understood Frank, thanks. But one must have a plan B, C, and even D…much like chess.
Genuinely appreciated all the responses and well wishes. Thank you. It had lead me down path once again recalling things and how to proceed.
For posterity and future searches, I wished to add the following final update for a while…
Evaporust did well removing and cleaning the block. Considered vinegar of course, yet preferred this due to the flash rust vinegar causes, nor wishing to neutralize after, etc… Didn’t wish to address after. Oxalic acid not safe on aluminum.
As a note, people online state vinegar will damage aluminum as it is porous, etc. This is incorrect, for the record. It will not as the aluminum used on car motors is an alloy, with an oxidation layer which resists the acid. Yet I wouldn’t leave it in for weeks on end personally.
As it’s a but volatile I chose evaporust due to its safety and outstanding known results.
Seems a plug on each side leaked due to not enough silicone on the temporary plastic caps…you only had one job!! sigh…
So the inner block was only bathed so high in the stuff…so will do it again later.
Flushed out again well, vacuumed out all water.
When dry doused all with PB Blaster.
The intake side is nice as due to block design pockets are there to keep the bolt end soaked in penetrant.
Exhaust side, no…so I reapply whenever I get the chance.
Intend to do this for a week or so as I can, while also heating with butane torch and applying and allowing to cool.
Removing the head is well documented. Not repeating.
Removed head acorn nuts…1/4 turn at a time. Important.
Low and behold one of the worn down intake side studs came out with the nut!
A nice sign!
The shaft rather covered in chalky oil residue and prevented corrosion…
ALSO, I intend to try a trick I saw.
Using small plastic water bottles, drill large holes in the caps, affix each with silicone over(around) each head stud, open end up…
When dry, cut the plastic bottle(s) down in half or more, and screw them into the upside down caps which are over the stud to create a cup for each head stud.
Fill each allowing goop to drain down without having to constantly refill.
I intend Marvel Mystery Oil as primary penetrant, but we’ll see.
As for remaining process should bolts break:
1: It IS possible to use the short studs, tapping the block holes, screwing in short studs as earlier models, and therefore replacing long studs entirely.
There are o issues regarding block structural integrity, etc. Simply grind the old studs down flat and use the short studs, tapping already existing holes in the block face.
I’ve been told this by a couple well regarded and well known Jaguar shops and restorers. An additional well respected source I came across online from JCNA noted it too.
(I won’t name them as a matter of discretion. I find it very rude those who post private emails for world to see or quote others within candid conversations).
It is apparently common practice. Surprised I have read of it nowhere else?
I see no great expense doing so…
Then one uses the earlier short studs as found on E Types and 420G/MkX models.
The difference I didn’t think to ask, happy merely it is a well regarded and doable option.
Don’t wish to be a bother but I may ask again what the difference is from short studs on later models.
From what I have seen it may be because there appears to be a rounded, bulbous end on them to key the head in place. Not the dowel one…it’s different I believe from what I have seen.
Nevertheless, it is what was told me so that is what I will research.
I will know when I see it and explore both types or ask again and post later.
2nd option: Replace long bolts as is well known and documented.
There is a fellow who has (had) a blog from 2009 by name of Corey Thomas.
Unable to contact him I am posting link here with full credits to him of course.
As it is so old, I am going to include some of the measurement details should it disappear as he included measurements and sizes I otherwise haven’t seen, especially helicoil.
Although I would prefer using time-sert.
Quote from Corey Thomas Blog:
" Removed the freeze plug to get side access to the area
Be prepared for a lot of coolant spillage including the corroded gunk - I left a container underneath in anticipation
Bought a Helicoil kit to repair a 7/16"-20 thread
Bought an 8pt (these are usually 6pt or 12pt) 5/16" socket for a 3/8" drive
Bought a 29/64" drill bit
Drilling
Modified the drill bit from a round shape to a square - sized to fit a 1/4" socket
I mated the 29/64" drill bit to a 1/4" hex socket facing the wrong way
I also mated a 1/4" extension to another 1/4" hex socket
To join these two, I used a 1/4" hex screwdriver bit which I cut the ends off - tape held these parts together from sliding apart
On the other end of the extension was a 1/4" drive to 1/4" hex adapter for the drill
I used tape wrapped around the tap as a depth guide and a magnet to clean out the area
Taping and Helicoil Insertion
Used a medium length 3/8" extension - the longer they are, the thicker they are which may not fit
I inserted the extension in the top of the block and mated it to the 5/16" 8pt socket that I inserted into the side access hole - from the freeze plug
I lifted that assembly then inserted the tap in the side access hole and mated that with the assembly
From there, it was simply a matter of using a socket on the top
The same was done for the coil insertion
Again, I used tape wrapped around the tap as a depth guide and a magnet to clean out the area
Throughout the drilling and tapping, I would spray SeaFoam for lubrication. I would also occasionally back-out the tap a bit for clean-up."
Of course this all should be improved upon, however it is only such description found and gives a good foundation.
A portable drill press is fundamental however, whether tapping block with threads or replacing long studs as per original. They can be found very inexpensively.
I intend to use natural earth (neodymium) magnets to hold the press steady.
These magnets are VERY strong.
With the head removed, the distance from top of block to base of stud is only 6.5 - 7inches.
12 inch left and right hand drill bits are readily available If tapping or preferably bolt removal necessary…so I don’t get his set up…
-
I forgot #3 …
Hoping for the best, planning for the worst.
Kind regards and hope this has been informative and helpful to those in the future.
It may be combination of various things to work of course. Speculating and preparing at this point.
Of course all this requires one with experience and confidence in their abilities.
Ciao for now
