What are the metal bits in my oil filter? Any guesses?

I soaked up and out all the oil looking for artifact. Cam lobes look new.
Other side off today. Pan off next weekend.
Then break pump apart.I will determine depth of tear down after findings.

It mustn’t be on center so the tappet can turn, the perspective is deceiving and it left the factory this way so it can’t be wrong.
Cam lobes are very strong on these engines.

That’s why I said: “this far off center”.

This on looks so much farther off center than the others look (i.e., the cam lobe to the right, which looks more what I was thinking it should be like).

I picked that one as the photo view was more vertical and more centered between the two cam lobes, reducing the effect of perspective.

I marked center of the tappet on the left one to show how for off from center it was compared to the other one to the right.

It could all be an optical illusion due to perspective, but it looked more off center than the others.

I am virtually positive it is, because only one cam lobe can’t be that far off center.

I think it’s perspective and if it was a bit off what it should be (this is a forging, so almost impossible) it wouldn’t worry me… but it does look off perspective or not.

I’m pretty sure that it’s just perspective. Remember that the top of the tappet on the left is much further from the camera than the one on the right because the left valve is fully open, whereas the right one is closed.

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That was my thinking too, with a … but … (strange things pop up every now and then).

I took off the right cam cover and Is Blue silicon supposed to be squirted and plugging
Area circled in yellow?
It was. I removed it.
Same blue snot as was in oil canister.

Aren’t the cam lobes supposed to be a bit off center (not what it appears to be on the photo) ? The idea being that the tappet will rotate fractionally every revolution to avoid uneven wear to its guide.

No: that’s just yet another example of how not to use RTV, which can be used quite successfully and not dangerously.

That’s my thinking also.

In some of the photos, they look that way (“a bit off center”), while in other photos some look ‘quite a bit off center’ (almost all the way to or beyond the edge of the tappet).

Which had me thinking ‘is the cam shaft the correct one’?

Note that the latest picture also seems off center. It can’t be the wrong camshaft and it is forged so moving and grinding the cams would have been very expensive.

Who put a red fog over the entire engine?

There’s usually too much RTV… many don’t know how to use it and it ends up plugging the relief valve.

Don’t lose the chemey hose clamps.

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Yes,red fog even on perfectly good original interior also. A shame. It apparently was taken to bare metal and abandoned at a body shop for a very long time with all glass out and bonnet off. A quick crap red over everything,masking nothing,I assume to protect it. As I remove the red with my strip it ,the body is beutiful, no rust anywhere .
It is a 73,000 mile car that got lost annd picked apart upon 56 federal inditement’s of the original owner.

Certainly not. There is a special rubber seal that is supposed to sit in that slot called a “half moon seal”. It’s not supposed to be filled with silicone. Those holes are oil returns to the sump, so not surprising you found silicone clumps there.

Sad, but - sounds like a very enjoyable restoration!

Thanks Erica.
Off with the cams now.
Lord knows what else is wrong.
David,
Indeed, a fun recommission.
Saved from the dismantlers.
Luckily, lots of E-Type original parts around to piece it back together.
It has been enjoyable gathering its lost bits.
I have most now to complete it.
I still need the FHC door chrome window frames and just a few small bits.
I have been thinking of dry ice blasting the chassis to freshen original surfaces under and on top.
Maybe it will remove the overspray.

It is risky as it is too easy to get through to primer, especially on the frame rails and bulkhead, but it is faster. If you have a really good man for the job, he needs to be very careful. On the linksges and suspension and maybe even the interior this could be the best way to do it.

Looks like blue silicone devil got a hold of the oil pan too. No drips but it must have been a leaker for a spell. Caked on like black ,clay mud on bellhousing/tranny.
Hopefully the engine is not “rebuilt” by the blue devil fix all.
It Appears oil pump housing bypass big nut has been cleaned and possibly removed. Clean like the head.The oil filter bypass hose is almost kinked in half like a water hose in the garden that won’t flow.
Fishy….
Anyhoo new oil pump on way just in case.
I will pull pressure relief valve ,hopefully not full of blue snot.
On dry ice, sounds like fun to do myself.
Archeology.

Probably want to just unbolt that entire adapter housing. It’s just four 5/16 bolts. That way you can dissemble the valve on the bench in a controlled setting for examination and cleaning. Clean the mating surface on the block and tape over it for now.

Yes, since he’s dismantling everything either way this is a problem for later. Assume Mr. Blue Devil was everywhere.