What did you do to your E-Type today? (Part 2)

Well, certainly nothing compared to Scot’s accomplishments recently. In amongst dismantling everything in the new to me garage so I can paint before I have the floor epoxied, I finally replaced the UD needles I used at 9000’ with UB for sea level elevation. If I don’t have to center the jets, I’ll add some ATF to the dash pots and get it tuned today. With the storms that have been here all week, yesterday raining constantly all day, and power still out, finding things to do without needing electricity has been troublesome. I do have a generator, but at 2.5 gal, per hour, I’ve run it only a few hours a day. Run the furnace in the AM, open the garage doors, and make dinner at night. Oh, but PG&E is going to give everyone $60 credit! Let’s see, that’s about 6 hours of propane. :person_shrugging::roll_eyes:

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Scott,

Looks like you have a project with good bones (well, some missing) that was fortunate enough to find someone with plenty of love and deep pockets to revive it to its former glory.
We’re all cheering for you.

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Excellent post Nickolas.It is great to see someone enjoying their E-Type and recognizing it. Being present in the moment.
Question: As cold as it was during your drive, did the engine ever get to temperature?

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It was around 6°C, ~43°F Bill. Yes, it got up to operating temperature no problem. No surprise, really. That’s the job of the thermostat.

Going up to 10°C today, 12° tomorrow.

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On our black 2+2 Vicki and I took the original drivers door hinge (wore out) and bought a new one some 425 and installed the new one…works good fit. 2/9/24
Mitch
Some tricks…the hole in the drivers door where the door mirror fits allows one to use an orange ratchet strap to pull and lift the door…on a hard top one can drill a hole for a hook where the corner chrome reveal fits…of course one can close and latch the door before the final tightening of the bolts…of course, if one wants perfection with door gaps then will have to use the razor blade trick

Filled my rear differential with Redline (54 oz). I took the tie plate out to change the gasket with a Cometic one with the IRS still on the car. It required a bit of bending to fit it and I used cut up chop sticks
to align the holes and set the gasket . Overall it wasn’t to difficult.


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are you saying you are able to remove the cover plate? or did you just slide it back then fish the gasket up in there?

No you can’t remove the cover plate, you can rotate 360 degrees and clean it off. The Cometic gasket is ply able enough to bend it a little and place it in position.

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Confirmed.
My diff cover plate leaked and I installed a Cometic gasket with the pumpkin in situ.

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Well, I went to AAA in Monterey to get the car registered from out of state. Girl at the desk at my appointment time said they don’t issue registration and titles for vehicles older than 1985. Didn’t someone just go to them and get the Vin Verification and registration?

Oh well. Went to the DMV office and had no issue with VIN or registration. Good to go!

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Cleaned my ground and balanced crank prior to fitting crank plugs. Had to clean up the threads in the crank using a 1/4 bspp tap. Used loctite and staved the plugs in place just to be sure.

The crank flywheel face was squared off to ensure the flywheel sat flush and square to the crank also the rear scroll removed for the later stretchable oil seal conversion.

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Would the plugs not be in the crank to balance it?

Is it just the lighting (or something else) or does the grind on the crank seem “insufficient”?

Looks like oil to me

It’s covered in acf50. Given the plugs are all the same and in opposing points on the crank I suspect it’s negligible

Impossible to tell from that picture, but given the source of the information, I have the highest expectations that it was done correctly.

Looks great. Would you be able to elaborate on the stretchable seal modification. I saw a listing for something like that on the Rob Beere website but am interested in the actual process. It sounds like a very sensible modification but what is required to perform it?

From Robs Beere site…

After 7 years in our testing programme we are now releasing this unique product

  • All new ‘Stretch’ spec rear crank seal
  • Designed & made for purpose by the Worlds leading seal manufacturer
  • Fits into all rope sealed Jaguar engines (6 & 12)
  • Direct replacement - fits straight into original rope seal groove
  • Only modification is to grind the scroll rope area of crank
  • Available for 3.000" & 75.00mm ground crank


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Now if only someone would re engineer the hood hinges to some kind of two stage cantilever design


Broke the steering column down for paint and recessitation of some very dry and crusty bearings.

On another note, i have some significant side play in one yoke of the upper u-joint. Since these are pressed bearing caps, I gather that I can tap the caps in a bit tighter to eliminate the play. Any naysayers?