That’s a really fantastic looking rotisserie.
I’m anticipating hearing some Strauss while it is rotating…
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Reassembled the front end . New bushings, upper/lower ball joints (yep, old school with shims ) seals, cosmetics…
Thanks. I got the idea from one in a the classic jaguar blog. . I wanted something that wasn’t too long. Had the hoops rolled out by a metal local metal fabricator and then used 1/2 inch pipe for rigidity. The spokes are 3/8 threaded rod and are attached to the hoops with pipe hangers and to the body with angle flanges. Seems to work well so far. Just have to make up a base with rollers so that I have the option of rotating it in position. Figure I am into it for about $400.00 Cdn. so pretty happy.
is that plating or paint?
Today, after struggling yesterday for 2 hours trying to put the lower left Shock mounting bolt through,… I took it out from the rear and put it in the troublesome front shock lower bush first, and it went in about three minutes.
What a sense of humour this little car has.
Paint, Eastwoods Silver Cad. I could not find a reputable outfit in town and didn’t want to ship out all the parts in fear of them getting lost.
For me a big compromise but that’s the decision I made. I did sandblast everything prior to painting (2 coats).
Same stuff I used: looked great!
Any opinions on how well the silver cad paint stands up vs nickel plating?
I have no experience but I’m guessing not as good. Anyway most of us drive these cars for fun and in good weather so even paint should last better than average. I guess the silver lining is that scratches and wear can be easily touched up.
Marco
Paint is paint. It’ll hold up till it doesn’t, which on hot parts won’t be too long. The zinc on mine has held up for 18 years on the not hot parts since I’ve kept it coated with ACF50. It’s pretty baked off the caliper pots and yoke. Nickle holds up much better but it has its issues as well. It’s very thick and can make parts hard to fit.
How did you delete the chrome accents on the RetroAir vents? My kit is being installed by a shop now. Can I do this later or do I need to get a message to them?
Thanks!
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I took the evaporator over to their shop in Dallas and asked them to swap out the vent panel. I suspect they’d send you the plain version in exchange for your “chromed” one. Your installer should be able to make the swap.
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A friend used nickle and rust was popping through before very long. I used Eastwood Alumablast followed by a couple coats of their hardened clear coat (can’t recall the name).
I think mine cost me about $250. I cheated and bought a couple of used 1000# engine stands on Kijiji - the Canadian equivalent of Craig’s List. Worked for me. But your’s looks awesome.
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I am replacing ALL plugs in the castings because of one leaking on the outside of the secondary intake. There appears to be one sandwiched IN BETWEEN the two intake castings. Are the 8 studs threaded on both ends?
Hi Nickolas, good idea to use a couple of 1000# engine stands on kijijji. I have to make some stands myself, it came with the car(e type 3.8L FHC 1963), but I have to finish it, before I go to the South of Europe for a couple of months to finish my Villa on the top of a mountain in Monte Negro.
ROAD TRIP!!!
“… I go to the South of Europe for a couple of months to finish my Villa on the top of a mountain in Monte Negro.”
When I saw it I immediately thought of this:
Oil pressure was great, water temp stabilized BUT the top hose from the block to the reservoir is cracked. Well it irks me as that hose has less than 2000 miles on it. Now the question is wether to go silicone or go stock, again.