What did you do to your E-Type today? (Part 1)

Looks good.
Do you have the A/F numbers, and the torque numbers?
Did you by chance run a before/after?

Looks like 1.875 FI valve seats.
Bob
889076
Plymouth, Mi.

My pleasure!!

Gang, Steve-O mentioned to me, he hadnt even driven an E yet: take pity on him, and give him motivation to do his “minor restoration,” willya?

Somebody treat him to a drive in yourn’s!!!

Hi Steve,

Yes, it went from 198bhp to 230 bhp and the torque went up too. Goes like a rocket.

It is here.

http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=11907

Hi James,

Those are huge gains with S3 headswap and injection congratulations. I should have went with the s3 head save me a tonne of $ in machine work. Can’t imagine what my total gains will be, having added spicy cam and high compression pistons(aiming for 10 to 1). I’ll have the compression number hopefully end of next week.

Where did you get the filters from?

Hi,

Yes, she goes pretty well considering the budget. Of course the sky is the limit.

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/airboxes-and-airfilters/pipercross-airboxes-airfilters.html

The filters are ITG "sausage " filters from Emerald. Bit like these ones above. Of course you also need the bits below as well.

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/engine-management-ecu-ems-conversion-kits/generic-throttle-body-conversion-kits-for-6-cylinder-engines.html

Very interesting post & your modifications are well thought out and extremely well done. I am, however, a bit perplexed at your rear wheel HP result. I am under the impression that one loses approximately 40 HP crank to rear wheel readings. With all your modifications a dyno reading of 260 HP would seem more appropriate. Is there more tuning to come?

Hi Geoff, you can separately order the long support channel that lies into the reaction plate, MRE 14 LH or RH S1/2. I was asking Martin Robey about it, because I made one side of the floor myself and all so this part, but I am not satisfied about the long piece.
Can’t pay for it, because Martin Robey doesn’t have Paypal and I have to send money by Bank of phone them with credit card numbers etc. Difficult for me.
I think the hole floor comes with the long pieces.
Frank.

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Thanks for the clarification Frank.

Hello Stephen,

I built the engine so I could put on serious miles, as opposed to outright high rpm performance.

Speaking the the boys at Emerald, they have seen many E types and most dont make 190bhp in the real world. They still go well because they only weigh 1,100 kgs. Some make loads of power of course. That can cost plenty of money and compromise longevity.

I want to be able to use the E type when I want, even long journeys without worrying about breaking down.

Reliability, bottom end torque, good mileage and flexibility was what I really was after and I have that now I hope.

I am not planning any more upgrades at the moment.

I think if I wanted more mpg I would need to up the compression and re-port the head. I dont really want to do that yet. Maybe I will experiment with my next one!

I still had some tire rub on the rear snubber mounts and the snubbers themselves. So, It’s easy to fix.

Jack up the rear and remove the tire/wheel.

Place a plastic shopping bag over the exposed splines and hub, tie or tape it to keep it from being blown or knocked off.

Break out hour handy belt sander with a 36 grit. Hold it parallel to the bracket and rubber snubber and start sanding. You’ll be amazed at how quickly you can remove an un-necessary 1/4 inch or so of the bracket. Use the sander to bevel each end so if the tire does contact the now reduced bracket it doesn’t hit a 90 degree corner. Splash some black paint over the just sanded metal.

Remove the runner snubber and nail it to a piece of plywood, drive the head of the nail below the level of the rubber. Use the belt sander to reduce the thickness of the snubber. There is a molding seam in the center of the profile, use that as your guide.

Put everything back together, blow the swarf out of the wheel well , remove the plastic bag and remount the wheel.

This takes about 30 minutes per side.

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Two days and 200 tools later, I successfully removed my first IRS! Lord, gimme a beer!

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I’m thinking several :beer::beer::beer::beer: Congrats, it’s worth the trip and the “fun” is just starting!

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Snow someone tells me.

The first dry day since (a) the snow stopped falling and (b) the rain had washed all the salt away… so out came the E for a little bimble around Wiltshire’s finest roads. 45 miles in a circuit, some dual carriageway/highways, some two lane, some single lane.

Note for the weekend, the idle is a little lumpy. I’ll need an excuse to get into the garage, so that is it.

Out with the old liners in with the new T TOPS. Intake ports almost done, a lot of meat came out to accommodate the flow required for the bigger valves. Getting closer…

This is the first year since the latest E restoration I haven’t got the car out of hibernation the last week of March. We had snow here in Niagara today. It didn’t last but it’s indicative of the miserable spring we’re having. Still shooting to get the E out of its cocoon early next week.

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Dino- how did you know how far you could open these ports up without hitting water jacket? I was always concerned with that when I ported my head.

Got these pics on the progress of my RetroAir Install:

imageimage

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My friends a CJ gave the engine shop the directions on which areas are the meatiest and which areas that are not so thick. I’ll be sharing the flow test results next week. 311 grams was removed!

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