Hooked wire is a possible solution……. Otherwise maybe a disassembly of the centre pivot holding the linkage from the motor from the dash side …enabling you to poke a wire down into the void ….worst case you’ll need to take off the dash top and fiddle around in the wiper linkage holes with a fishing wire
Could end up needing 4 hands .
Maybe another way is to feed in a new hose from the engine bay side …… but in order to be able to fish it up to the top on the inside ……insert a stiff wire inside the hose so you can “ shape its direction” …. Having got hold of it on the inside and assuming you can find the inside tube …… add the original to the new one with strong tape and slowly pull it out
Work backwards. Make sure you have a little more hose than needed and push it in the cowl. With a little luck and cuss words grab it and pull thru until you have enough to connect it to the tee. Then pull it out from the cowl and cut to length. You may have a better chance of grabbing it from the inside than trying to blindingly push it thru a small hole with your arm stuck in the tight fuse holder opening on the dash.
However, IIRC, if there is no hardura under the dash of the bottle side you may have a clear view of the opening to push it out from the imside.
Brought the E from storage to its new home on a Uhaul trailer. Its spot in the garage was full of cabinets, and I mean full, that the previous owner used for his wood shop. And they were built to withstand Armageddon. Over the three weeks I’ve been here, each evening after working on the house I set out with pry bar, 8 lb sledge, Sawzall with demo blade, and have been hacking away to create enough floor space that I can start arranging tools and get the E inside. Still a few more days. But as I pulled off the car cover yesterday, I noticed first that the front of said cover around the grill had been chewed immensely. Opened the bonnet to get the battery on a charger and droppings were on the fan box and a few more inside where I had lain the left floor mat so the footwell could dry. Oh did I mention it has rained continuously in New Mexico and much of AZ since March?
So by the time the weekend is finished, I’ll have it inside, working to get there while taping and mudding drywall in the house. And maybe the 9th load to the landfill. And enough traps to get the buggers
I grew up in AZ in the 60s. When one drove into Kingman, there was this very evident yellow and black sign that said, “Kingman is for men” or something like that. I always worried about that sign.
Repaired my sun visors today, they had disintegrated around the hinge blade so that they were just floppy. When I restored my car I just recovered the originals with the roof lining wool cloth. For the repair, I slit open the wider end and with a bread knife split the foam moulding inside, I was then able to withdraw the hinge blades. I cut 2 pieces of alimium sheet approx half the size of the visor & appoxy glued those to the hinge blades. Reinserted the now extended blades into the split moulding & superglued the split ends of the cloth covering. Quite satisfied with the result, they now pivot firmly on the arms & stay up!
Ok, I’m finally getting around to posting this. Obviously it’s no longer done today but now a few months ago. After getting my car back from a five year restoration by a well known marque specialist, I noticed a glaring fitment issue between the heater plenum and bonnet air duct. I can expect some tweaking is needed when mating non-standard parts, and some tweaking was done, but the results were less than stellar. The fitment issues were caused by changing over to an aluminum bonnet, use of a poorly made new air duct, and a plenum that not only houses the fan and heater core but now also an evaporator.
Here’s a pic of all three components before mods. See how the circular gasket is crushed on one side but not the other. The uncrushed side exposed the plenum to air heated by the exhaust and the crushed side covered a large area of the inlet screen.
In order to gauge how everything fit together, I made a rectangular cutout from a cereal box which surrounded the D-shaped air inlet. I put tape on top of it and lowered the bonnet down. I then lifted the bonnet up and this was the result.
The gasket material I ultimately used was similar to the original circular gasket. It’s very soft, which was needed because the clearance was very tight in one place, almost pinching the gasket. So far, it’s working but it sticks a bit when opening the bonnet.
Yesterday I panicked. Driving home after a day of visiting relatives, I was quite close to home when I noticed the oil pressure gauge showing a pressure drop.
In the garage at tickover with a hot engine the pressure was showing almost zero.
But there was plenty of oil flooding the exhaust cam, so there has not been a catastrophic crankshaft failure
Today I thought, how to test the gauge / sender? Simple. Using a spare male compressor fitting (helpfully the sender has a thread identical to a BSP thread) I plugged it into my air compressor. With 60psi into the airline the gauge read about 30-35.
Sender. It is always the sender. Quick way to test the gauge is to touch the loom connection to earth. The needle will immediately pin itself to the right past the 60 mark.
A new sender is already on its way. This will be the fourth in 20 years.
I feel your pain, although I had the reverse. Last year on the autobahn at 190 kmh in the XJ6C I thought I had a blockage in the oil filter or something as the oil pressure shot way up! I could figure it out it was the sender as I could see the idiot light flicker at traffic lights when the A/C compressor kicked in.
