Depending on the bearing and location, I’d sometimes used punches to get the old one out and after tapping the new one enough for it to sit square and firmly, I’d use the old bearing to drive the new one in place. If the bearing sits deep, be sure to stop using the old one before it gets stuck. Use punches or sockets to finish the job.
When I removed the old bearing races I went to the bench grinder and removed a very small amount of material from the outer face. I could then use that race to seat the new one without fear of the new race sticking.
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Not quite Today, but nearly. Moved my completed shell to the paint shop. This is the first time the whole thing has moved as one, albeit on a trailer.
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Almost a shame covering up that craftsmanship with paint.
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Wow. That’s awesome.
HEY!!!
It’s on wheels!
That counts.
Sorta…
THAT is a beauty of a body. I am intrigued.
Fiddled with the bonnet, trying to get it aligned AND the pegs/catches to work.
All day.
Claims have been made that it was fine when removed, and that nobody belted it with a sledge hammer or drove over it while in storage.
I have my doubts.
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Par for the course: took me the better part of a whole day to get Tweet’s to close well, and its bonnet has NEVER been hit or apart.
I agree!! that is amazing to me . Put a polisher on it and call it done[
Cheers Jim
Today 10mile warm-up drive for oil and filter change. Lubed Speedo cable. Checked refurbished water pump for leaks - none. 
Tomorrow visit customs office for pickup of a Fiero fan to fix the heater box.
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You will loooove the Fiero mod!
I hope so. Ever since I have the car, the heater has been bypassed. I‘m fixing that now, since a planned trip to england with davidsxj6 is coming closer and our most beautiful summer weather is fading.
Trying to clean grim from '66 FHC front hubs, ordered new SNG BJ gaiters/retainers.
I’d hate to undo the factory caliper metal bolt safety ties, brake pistons not leaking but bearings need replacement; slight drag on wheel rotation. Original '66 BJs. Already replaced suspension poly bushings + rebuilt CW rack and new rack bushings.
Patrick
'66 FHC
Completed working on the pedal box. New master cylinder and rebuilt clutch
with new pedal spring. Installed into car have been at it for 2 weeks.Very satisfying.
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why would you have a drip tray or is it a mirror
I bought it years ago, before I had the engine rebuilt. Now fortunately, it catches nothing, but I leave it there so if something does drip I can easily catch and identify what it is.
I was bored one day so I broke out the rotary buffer and polish and polished the drip tray. 
Brought my body shell back from the blasters today. There is a surprising amount of brazing and lead on the body. Pretty happy with the results. Shell is pretty solid above the sills. A few “lace” spots but not much. Check out the welding job on the floor. I actually have a receipt from the body shop that replaced the floors a few years before I bought it. Looks like they employed the only welder in the world worse than me.
The leaded areas are filler. The brazed areas are structural. Examine the brazed areas well. They’re all higher up in the monocoque so are not especially prone to rust damage, but they are subjected to stresses from body movement if the sill box sections have been compromised by rust. If so there can be hairline cracks that are hard to see but will telegraph through the final paint. You don’t want that.