What did you do to your E-Type today?

(Nick Saltarelli) #2208

The leaded areas are filler. The brazed areas are structural. Examine the brazed areas well. They’re all higher up in the monocoque so are not especially prone to rust damage, but they are subjected to stresses from body movement if the sill box sections have been compromised by rust. If so there can be hairline cracks that are hard to see but will telegraph through the final paint. You don’t want that.

(Geoff Allam) #2209

I am planning to go over the shell this weekend to decide how much I have to cut out so that I can order replacement panels. I was planning to order robey replacement panels for the floors and monocoque metalwork panels for the sills and shut face panels. Because the car has previously had floors and sills fabricated in a bodyshop I have no idea where the panels actually belong. I have heard glowing comments about the accuracy of the MM panels so my plan was to use them to help set the body shape. Fortunately my doors are original and the bulkhead has not been worked on so they provide me with some landmarks. Interestingly on a cursory inspection I can see a number of areas where the feather edges of the lead are lifting so that will require removal.

(Martin Scherz) #2210

Today, drove the E to England with davidsxj6. Visiting the National Trust White Cliffs of Dover a speed bump in the parking area jumped up and pushed the exhaust back. It held up til about near Woking (Hi Marek!) on the M25 in traffic so we fixed it nicely at a rest area.We are scheduled for a tour on friday at JLR Solihull, British Motor Museum on Saturday, and Bicester Sunday. Fun days. One problem we still are figuring out is where to stow the Old Speckled Hen we plan on taking home.

(LLoyd (just a rithmetician)) #2211

Ouch… I think we’ve all been bitten by some type of speed bump. I’ve been lucky to ease over and scrape… so far!


A step backward, after making a wrong turn, is a step in the right direction.

Kurt Vonnegut

(Paul Wigton) #2212

Happened on Tweety, on the lead seam on the left upper rear wing: SEVERELY ticked me off.

(Nick Saltarelli) #2213

In my case it was the other side, also in the rear. I noticed only as I was doing the final wash before paint. Had to remove the primer, body solder and braze in the area then reweld and re-lead followed by the usual epoxy, high build, glaze and blocking. It added days to the job, but I was delighted to have found it before the final paint.

(Steve) #2214

you sure you don’t want to come finish mine while your in Big D?

(Nick Saltarelli) #2215

I’m up to my eyeballs restoring my XK120, Steve, so I must decline :slightly_smiling_face:

What’s Big D?

(Paul Wigton) #2216


Where I am, at the WORST airport Ive ever been in.

(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #2217

Just checked in at the hotel in Scottsdale and this is what I saw behind me.

See you in the morning Paul.

(David Langley) #2218

And who would that be parked in the fire lane…? :grinning:

(Paul Wigton) #2219

Red curb… red car.

Zatta problem?


(brueland) #2220

Congrats Ole, thats an gorgeous piece of modern art!

(Craig Balzer) #2221

Bill Bilotti

From whom did you purchase the remote bleeder kit?


(67 OTS mailed check Patron) #2222

A few us did a back road, 2 lane hilly, rural road trip to burn out the carbon on our way to the British Car Show on Sunday.

I returned to figure out why my fuel and oil pressure gauges we’re quite right. Grounding out the fuel gauge terminal brought my gauge up from 3/4 to full tank were it should have been. Already ordered a new fuel level sender. Also, my newish 0-100 psi gauge was never reading correctly. We thought it might be the teflon tape that prevents a good ground from the sender, so I attached ground wire to the sender with a hose clamp, but that didn’t work. Finally realized that the 10V stabilizer was only supposed to have 2 leads off the 10V terminal - temp and fuel, not 3. Moved the oil pressure power wire from the 10V side to the 12V side and my pressure gauge now reads much better.

(DINO) #2223

Photo shoot. My love for British sports cars and British racing green 38 years strong

(Erica Moss) #2224

Somewhere along the way you switched from Adidas to Nike though.

(DINO) #2225

Love your attention to detail!

(Bill Bilotti 1966 S1 OTS (in boxes)) #2226

Classic Jag, Rob Beere kit

(Geoff Allam) #2227

Started cutting out any rusted areas above the sills and welding in new metal. As I was warned by Nick Salterelli the leaded areas can hide problems. Unfortunately the areas I found involved areas where multiple panels joined so they both required multiple patches with flanges to be manufactured. It was very satusfying to finally get started. Next comes flipping it over and removing the remnants of the floor. image|375x500