What did you do to your E-Type today? (Part 1)

Frank, sorry for the late reply, I have been away on family business. The body was made professionally, I am but an assembler.

Regards
Pat

Hopefully this will give the painted frames some longevity!

I have used Waxoyl on all my E Types and it does what it says on the tin.

Frames are now in colour Silver (RAL 9006)

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Underside prepped awaiting etch primer, light stonechip and colour

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I forget his name, but that’s what the restorer in the Practical Classics series did on their E-type restoration. He filled the tubes with Waxoyl and then hung them holes down for a few days to drain out the excess into catch basin.

John, I have done that in the past and despite leaving them hanging for months whilst I done other restoration stuff, once assembled and the car complete and on the road waxoyl would still seep out even a few years later, especially on a hot day.

Pat

Not much to do on mine today as I am waiting for delivery of my body panels so I welded up some tooling to press out the missing drain channels on my doors. A little bit of smoothing with a file and they should work fine. Fortunately there was one slightly mangled channel still hanging on one of the doors that provided a pattern. Nice to do something other than cutting and grinding out rusty metal.

Perhaps I missed an earlier reverence but what was the motivation for a flat floor on one side and recessed on the other?

I used 3M rust fighter in my frames. I think it’s basically the same stuff, wax suspended in a volatile chemical. Haven’t noticed any coming out. It’s pretty goopy stuff once it has dried out. I also have it sprayed in the bonnet nose and other cavities. I didn’t let mine sit though. I filled them part way and rolled the stuff around then drained. If it collects for too long at one end maybe a plug of dried stuff can form?

Pat can correct me, if Im off the mark: passengers’ comfort doesn’t count in a hi-perf car!

Erica, the original I belive was flat floor and on occasion it raced using a side exit exhaust, to achieve this it is necessary to have at least the LH side flat floor, or the exhaust would be lower by the amount of dish in the floor.

Whilst I have no intention of outright racing the completed car, (perhaps a couple of track days) someone in the future, when I am long gone, may wish to do so.

My wife accompanied me on many E Type trips, but I suspect will be reluctant to do so in the Low Drag given its lack of creature comforts. Its missing even the basics of heater, radio, noise deadening and only has one wiper positioned for the driver. Given this plus the side exit opportunity I went for the LH flat floor option.

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Hi Phil

The fuel pump is 255 racetronix’s pump with all wiring, we attached it to the emerald ECU. Installed a fuel pressure gauge and a washable fuel filter(good for life). All the lines was changed to black Vibrant performance braided race lines and fittings. Basically improved and cleaned up the fuel delivery in my Jag. As for the impact fuel cut off, we are still looking into it not much out there in terms of good quality set up, I don’t race the car so not sure how much I’lll look into.

Thank you .

With best regards
Philip Dobson

Yesterday took a 70 mile run around the Niagara Peninsula in glorious sunshine, though it was a bit cool it was cozy with the windows up and the hardtop on.

As I type this, 13:25 on November 15, 2018, the weather map looks like this:

Skies are clear here in Niagara at the moment, but not for long … all that ugly blue stuff on the map is snow. We’re about to get a big dump, which means the salt trucks will follow. So, what I did with my E-type today was an oil change then tucked her away in storage for the winter.

Bummer.

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let me know when your next run is… most likely spring

End of March, Dino.

Now to get going on the XK120 again.

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I spent an enjoyable day installing new gutter trim and bonnet beads. The gutter trim fit reasonably well as delivered, some adjustment, maybe 2-3 hours worth, to the curvature was required.

Today I began to remove the carb out of the car to rebuild. If I do one at a time it might not be
overwhelming of a project. Will clean and replace parts in the kit.

How did you attach the gutter trim, John? I need to do mine after I get the windscreen hockey sticks in place. I am planning to glue my gutter trim on with the 3M adhesive since most of my end tabs are broken.

–Drew

I used the black 3M weather strip adhesive. I found the end tabs, even on new trim pieces are crap Two broke after just one bend. after I got them situated where I wanted them I used a bar clamp at the “B” pillar to hold the trim in position and then carefully removed the front half from the car, applied adhesive to the body flange and replaced the trim, using additional clamps to hold it in place. Then I repeated the process with the rear half of the trim. This left about a foot of trim with no glue behind it but that doesn’t matter as long as the rest is stuck down.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words.

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Other than I used urethane, exactly how I did mine.

And…towards the thousand words…one can never have too many clamps.

Hi Drew,
I did the same as John above, although I used silicon sealer and clamped the trim as in John’s photos.
The silicon has held up, so far.
Good luck.
Chris
Cape Town

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