I believe the frames are the same for all Series I and II cars. I’ve got a spare set of frames off of a Series II 2+2 in the basement. Using a 4’ ruler I took some pictures that might be helpful to you.
I aligned the edge of the ruler with the back edge of the square tube and although it doesn’t look like it in the picture the end of the ruler is just at the face of the flange in the third picture. The measurement I get for that leg, measured on that side of the leg, flange face to flange face is 32-7/8".
All this assumes of course, that there is no variance in frames.
I am reluctant to buy a new set of frames as these ones are brand new unused ones that just happen to be 25 years old. My next step is to go back and recheck to make sure I have the body dead level and the sheet metal positioned exactly as it should be with all the factory measurements checking out. Best case scenario is that I have something out of spec and correcting it will solve my problem. Then I will try to get the frames oriented to the body with those factory measurements as they should be. At that point I can determine if I am able to adjust the mounting points or not. Adjusting the sheet metal at the stage I am at is relatively easy but I have to make sure that it does not cause problems further on in the process. Lots of laser level and plumb bob work coming up.
Thank you for that measurement John. I will be back at the shop later this week and will check it against mine. Yours is a factory original? The part numbers are the same for the swb cars and the 2+2.
Sorry Larry. Looks like I did not answer your question. The lower outer mount is not in place yet. I am waiting to finalize the position of the frame flange before attaching the mount to the new sill. The new inner sill is properly lined up with the bulkhead as checked with a straight edge. Ideally the frame flange should butt up to the front edge of the inner sill leaving the width of a sheet metal panel between it and the sill. What is happening is that the frame flange is bottoming out against the front edge of the sill before the frame is fully in position.
Once again thanks for that measurement John. I checked the dustance on my old frame and it was 32 13/16 so very close to yours. I expect the difference is just the little bit of variability in our measuring technique. The measurement on my new frame is 33 inches measured exactly as I did it in my old frame so my estimate of 3/16 difference was pretty close. I then measured the 3 other legs and the measurements all were within 1/32 so probably easily handled. Do you think that a little bit of mig and bondo would fix my old frames? .
Edit. The fixing comment is not serious. I realize that you cannot weld on these frames.
I took my sweetie for a ride today, 29 years and some months since I last took her for a ride. We looked at each other and both marveled how much had happened in our lives between those two drives.
On a more mundane level, she helpfully reminded me that the car died on that earlier occasion and she had to walk home. In her pajamas. (Why was she in her pajamas? And how far was the walk?) Anyhow, today’s run went off without any mishap.
Cold and rainy with a prediction of snow. So I went down to the garage, turned on the heaters and broke out the polish and rags. Five hours later that’s done. Tomorrow I wax.
No to my E-type exactly, but for my E-type.
I designed and welded a bracket for a hoist on my 4-post lift.
Apart from making it easy to get a “dead” vehicle on to the lift, it also allow me to pull the E back on the lift without starting the engine for the 30 foot drive after a wash or whatever reason it’s been pushed outside.
When I reassembled the car after painting the right reverse light failed to work; it worked before I took everything apart. Not wanting to troubleshoot it at that time and figuring I’d have to remove the fuel tank to get at the wires, I bodged a repair by running a 12 v wire from the left to the right light. Yesterday I decided to snoop around. On a Series II you can get to the wires running from one side to the other by removing the license plate light. When I did so and pulled out the wires for examination I quickly found the problem. The wire connector for the 12 volt line had broken and the bullet connector/wire for the right light had fallen out. Installed a new double connector and all is well.
Yesterday, we had some clear skies, the sun went down at 3:15PM but the streets were dry, so I went out for a drive with my 15 yr old son and afterwards we took the hardtop off, changed oil and filter and took the car back to storage with the hood (top) down. What a blast! (Dec. 11th in Helsinki, Finland)
It hit 40 degrees under sunny skies so my wife and I took Daphne out for a spin to get all her fluids up to temperature and keep all those seals well lubricated. I will admit to putting the top up, but it doesn’t matter that much because she leaks air like a sieve at the top of the windshield…incorrect parts on top of windshield and the top itself…but the heater actually works well so we were nice and warm. My plan is to get her out on the road every couple of weeks throughout the winter as long as the road are dry and without salt residue. I am using a fuel stabilizer until my order of 20 gallons of Sunoco Optima comes in (95 octane unleaded with zero ethanol and three year shelf life) just in case the weather turns nasty and I can’t get her out on the road.
Any idea why is is that Optima would not be street legal, whilst something like 260 GT is? Both are unleaded, and 260 GT is 100 octane. Is it because Optima is not oxygenated?
