Got the car back after several months.
New PS pump and lines and a new Rack/Pinion. Also a fresh alignment. Finally, we think AC maybe ok with the new drain lines— but it’s January so who knows.
Car drives great!
Car is getting real close to being done in my opinion. Need to redo the stereo and then it’s on for a complete detail and ceramic coating.
Any idea how to adjust the steering position (up/down, forward back) on a 70 S2?
Thanks!
Hi David,
good to hear you got the issues sorted out.
My S3 has the knurled Bakelite “nut” just below the steering wheel boss which, when lose, allow me to adjust the steering wheel in and out. Believe that is on all series, but not 100% sure.
Up/down is a mechanical adjustment where I’ve read others have inserted washers between the mounts and the bracket on the column. No personal experience.
Hope to see you on the “East Coast Oil Leak” in June.
Cheers … Ole
Thanks. Figured out the in/out. Way easier than expected :-). I’ll look at up/down another time.
I did move back to static, modern, seat belts va the inertia reel. I didn’t like the way the reel mounted on the back. If my daughter was seated in the back she could very easily smash her head against it, so back to the static belts.
Finished up installing the floors, inner and outer sills, prop shaft tunnel and lower front bulkheads on my 67 ots. I have nothing but praise for the combination of Robey floors and inner sills combined with Monocoque Metalworks outer sills , closing panels and rear bulkhead dishes. I had a few fitting problems but those were due to my lack of experience and the car being twisted. Once I got that straightened, and after a couple of consults with Chuck from MM everything fit perfectly. FWIW. If you are using these particular parts and they are not going together properly you are doing something wrong. Figure out what it is and it will go together properly.
Next up is lower quarters and then doors. I have been warned that the quarters take a bit of tweaking. My doors have nice rust free replacement skins on them. Unfortunately this was done by the same shop that put the body shell back together out of line in the previous restration so it mat take a while. I can only hope that the poor fit of the doors was due to the wonky body.
Yep, fitting body panels is sometimes like black magic. The damned thing won’t fit one day, but the next it does. Patience is the key word.
Good luck and hope to see some pictures … Ole
Yes. It never seems to hurt to take a break and think about it overnight. Or stop for a beer or two. My progress has been a bit slow because I have a 2 year old grandson who comes first. Here are a couple of pictures of the train table I made him for his birthday. It is all white. The different shades are just the lighting. B
It took a while because I had to set up a temporary paint booth to spray it. A four post hoist and a roll of poly works quite well for that. image|375x500What did I do with my E-Type today? I took it out for some spirited mountain driving on its 50th birthday. Manufacture date January 27, 1969. Purchased new by my father in May, 1969. I drove it the way he taught me.
A rotisserie’s the only way to go Steve. Take lots of before, during and after pics.
We had a 25cm dumping of snow in last night, so I’m just staying in and planning my cars’ 50th Birthday party May 15.
Spent the day in the garage welding on the outer rocker panels. There was an ice storm raging outside… After many months of work they are back on and I can finally remove the cross bracing, which is always in the way.
What a coincidence. I did exactly the same thing on mine today. In your second picture what were you plug welding to? Did you place some sort of extra support in there? Normally the outer sill only contacts the floor along the lowest 3/4 inch or so. No Ice storm here but the temp went down to minus 34 celsius overnight.
I installed a hidden 1x2" steel tubing subframe so I had something beefy to weld to. It also helps strengthen the outer edge of the floor which was a bit cheesy. Here is a photo.
Nice mod! Had I thought of that, I’d have done the same on the one rocker panel I replaced.
Building the courage to start this step on my '69 FHC.
Q1. Did you build the support structure that is attached to the rotisserie? And do you have the details and dimensions?
Q2-5. What were the specifics on the plug welds? Size of hole you started with? Do you grind the weld spot flush afterwards? Type of welder/settings/wire, etc?
Q6. I see the bracing on the inside is bolted thru an existing hole but I can’t tell how you attached it at the front bulkhead?
-Steve
Q1. Did you build the support structure that is attached to the rotisserie? And do you have the details and dimensions? Yes I built all of it, including the rotisserie. The car sits on 2x2" 1/8 wall tubing, should have gone 2x3", that is why there are braces added. Where are you? I hope to be done with it soon.
Q2-5. What were the specifics on the plug welds? Size of hole you started with? Do you grind the weld spot flush afterwards? Type of welder/settings/wire, etc? I experimented with different hole sizes on scrap steel. 3/16-1/4" hole works well, smaller for thinner, larger for thicker. Hobart 140 (120V) MIG on high with .024 (.6mm) wire, C25 gas, clean down to bare metal, cut wire off for short stick out, position gun 4mm spacing, then trigger for 2-3 seconds . I grind them afterwards, but if you are good the hole fills and is flush
Q6. I see the bracing on the inside is bolted thru an existing hole but I can’t tell how you attached it at the front bulkhead? Used old bed rail that I pick out of trash, that included 90 degree end piece bolted to door mounting points, you are welcome to the bracing as I am done with it.
Your cockpit bracing is similar to mine, though I didn’t install rod stock cross members. Mounting at the rear is the same but I mounted the front part of the brace to the dash structure where it is most rigid. 1x3x0.125" rectangular tube and 0.25" plate.
Can you be more specific on the location of steel tube – please
Craig
