What did you do to your E-Type today?


(David Jauch) #2510

15 is low. Don’t mind the oil grade for troubleshooting now, it should still give much more pressure, especially cold. Not good, remove the assembly again (sorry) and see what’s wrong.
When my (XJ) valve clogged… twice - the oil lamp would just flicker at idle and above 900-1000 rpm it just went off and started to register. 15-20psi was the highest I saw.
You could have forgotten something like a shim but I know the E’s valve is weird. And maybe the symptoms are not from the valve but one of the o-rings is not correct and there is a similar drainage path.
Is oil splashing around the cams?


(Scott Johnson) #2511

Yay! I finally own a E-type and get to start posting in this thread. I haven’t brought the car home yet, but I have one of the wheels. I should have taken a before photo, but suffice to say, after 20 years off the road, there was a fair amount of grime and a bit of rust.

Four hours with a toothbrush, 000 steel wool and degreaser yielded significant improvements. Still have a ways to go but I’m really enjoying this. Hope to get the rest of the car home next weekend.


(Doug) #2512

You’re a sick man Scott. Thus you will fit in on this forum perfectly :wink:


(Scott Johnson) #2513

:grin:

I was just really pleased to see that I can make them at least look tolerable. New wheels are not something I wanted to spend money on. Just ordered new Vredesteins tonight, so hope to have it rolling on four round tires soon.


(67 OTS S1) #2514

a trick is too coat the inside of the wires with some sealant to prevent the hub grease from coming through and messing up your hard work.


(Scott Johnson) #2515

Thanks for the tip, Michael!


(Jerry Mills) #2516

Boy, are you ever right


(LLoyd (just a rithmetician)) #2517

“Lilly”, “LIL E” very clever. You must be a rithmeticican :wink:

Politics is perhaps the only profession for which no preparation is thought necessary.

Robert Louis Stevenson


(Bob K - 1964 FHC) #2518

Paul - Thanks for the suggestion. I probably should have just ordered a replacement valve, spring and spider when I ordered the rest of the parts, but those three items all looked healthy. But as you point out, they might not be. So, question back to you: how would you recommend pinching off the return hose? Its a pretty thick hose. I could see putting a C-clamp on it and tightening down, but I wonder if that would crack the hose. (I also thought about putting a cork in it, but I expect that a cork wouldn’t hold too well inside an oily rubber hose.) Maybe I sacrifice the hose for the benefit of science and replace it once the experiment is done?

Thanks,

Bob


(Ed Overmyer) #2519

Hi Scott,
Try Macquires chrome wheel cleaner. Spray on and rinse off, very little scrubbing. It took maybe 10 or 15 minutes a wheel.
I was sold on this stuff years ago when I cleaned the back side of the original wheels on my FHC. I don’t think they had been touched before. The bonus was there was no rust under the grease & grime.
Ed


(Scott Johnson) #2520

Thanks, Ed! I’ll give that a try. There is fair amount of surface rust on the spokes so I might still need a bit of steel wool, but maybe not.


(Erica Moss) #2521

Try Naval Jelly instead of wool. Brush on with a toothbrush and let stew for about ten minutes, agitate with the brush some more and rinse off. I never put steel wool on chrome, not even 000 stuff. A coating of wax will fill in the flaws and keep more rust from forming.


(Robert Thomas 68 FHC ) #2522

Scott, I could be wrong, but my recollection is that rust on the spokes can affect their strength quite a lot by the pitting caused by the rust. Not sure I fully understand the engineering but it made sense. You may want to look into it


(Scott Johnson) #2523

Thanks, all, for the excellent suggestions.


(1967 FHC) #2524

I cleaned my original wire wheels with 0000 steel wool and baby oil and they looked great. John Blake cleaned them when he put on my tires a couple of years ago and they looked even better. Now I use that spray on chrome wheel cleaner and hose and dry it off with a soft towel.

–Drew


(67 OTS S1) #2525

PO decided to prevent rust by leaving naval jelly on the wires. Needless to say there was no rust, nor chrome.


(Paul Wigton) #2526

There are special clamp-off pliers made, to do it: if a c-clamp breaks the hose… it needed replacing.

Flat-jaw Vice grips, not too tightly applied, will work, too.

My spider looked perfect, with only the barest shiny bit on one side of the sealing surface. I could measure no wear.

Put a new one on, and, BOOM! OP went to perfect.


(Jerry Mills) #2527

Today I completed getting my lights all set. Converted to LED. Got rid of the old style humming florescent at 40w a bulb and on to the new brighter 17w. Each fixture has a pull chain switch for selective area lighting. Much better.


(Paul Wigton) #2528

The LED lights are da BOMB!

Instant on, no more humming, and WAY longer-lived.


(Steve) #2529

I’ve been swapping all of my bulbs out for LEDs over the last few years. I think they’re getting tricky in learning how to make them poorly so that they fail more often than the old incandescent ones. Seems like I’m always fiddling with the ones in the garage flickering and half going out.