What did you do to your Saloon today

I took him for an MOT - first one for 3 years and about 4000 miles.

Although he is exempt from the requirement to have one, I believe it’s a good thing to have independent experts poking & prodding from time to time as you are so used to your own car you often don’t notice things going wrong.

He passed with one advisory - slightly binding passenger side front wheel - probably a sticking brake cylinder or maybe even just an over-tightened bearing, as I have been messing about with the bearings.

So he did have a fault I didn’t know about :smiley:


I finished routing my dual master brake setup. Also bled the circuit (DOT5=silicone), tested (to some extent) vacuum assist using vacuum pump. Master is an adoption from Lexus (3/4"). The reservoir is … a temporary, I hope. Held with a magnet, no holes drilled !

So… I have brakes ! But no engine yet :slight_smile:

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One rear door stripped on my 61 Mark IX. Before and after.


Backed my 3.8S out of the garage, running on the left tank, stalled and would not restart even with choke on. Swapped to the right tank and heard multiple clicks, when stopped car fired right up. Switched back to left tank and within a minute car stalled. Went to the boot and could hear no clicks from the LH pump. Pulled cardboard panel off and removed pump, using my Dremel tool cleaned both sets of points, tested on a spare battery and clicked strongly, Reinstalled and car ran fine on the LH pump. Decided to do the same cleaning technique with the RH pump but this one was situated such that it did not need to be removed for this work. Tested good. I think periodic fuel pump points cleaning should be a regular maintenance item. Thank heavens for dual tank/pump cars, I would not have have been in a failure to proceed situation if out on the road.


I inspect them under high mag, and they are pitted full on from arc welding

This is caused by the spark produced when the FP coil inductance is switched by the points…a big fat spark every click

A capacitor will reduce this

I have added TVS diode 20V across all my SU pumps fixes…No spark

The points will still pull full current of 3-4 amps, but imo, this is not what wears them

The full electronic kit allows only milliamps to flow through the points

I do not know whether this helps to further reduce point wear, but I do not believe so

A break in inductive coils causes a back EMF of high voltage

That is what a TVS diode is designed to reduce

This is what causes the erosion

Inspect them like I said, I dare you, its shocking to see


There was a small silver cylindrical device clipped inside the black cover, is that a capacitor? Are they polarity sensitive? My car is converted to negative earth.

Yes, a big inductive kick and a spark that’s not very helpful. Have used the same method to protect power transistors switching inductive loads.


Not sure, but I would think so. At least the capasitors / varistors & diodes that come with the Burlen service & repair kits for the fuel pumps are.

My MKV is positive ground and I had trouble before I realized this and had it fitted correctly. I have not had any issues after a rebuild kit adding a varistor or diode into the circuit in any of my (ca five) SU fuel pumps in all my Jaguars.


That is the capacitor, I am not sure with the SU caps, but I would assume they were polarity sensitive, and also probably not overly effective when 50yrs old

A good working one does a fair job of suppressing spark, but the sure way is to observe operation with the plastic cap removed, you will see a spark…or not

I should have mentioned I fit a bi-directional TVS (Transient Voltage Suppression) diode, which is not polarity sensitive,

Any unidirectional diode will usually fail if voltage is reversed

I bought a “pack” of 10 for about $10 of eBay

As I recall, only electrolytic capacitors are polarity sensitive. It’s been a while since I’ve been involved in electronics, however.

Well the Temp fix did not work , new 0 ring on order !

I bet it’s from eBay🤣

lol , no you lost :tongue: :grin: not at £4 :scream:

Heater control valve 0 ring come today , just fitted it , quite a diffrence from old to new !!
Makes me think did I fit the right one 10 years back :thinking:


Door handle swap and door frame reshim.

Never been 100% happy with the door frame alignment following the respray, and the rear door handle wouldn’t alway open the door, and then I discovered that the front and rear handles are slightly different and different part numbers. Left side of the car is ok, so yesterday I took to stripping down both doors, swapping the handles, reshimming the doors.

Not too difficult- but the rear most door handle retaining nuts are a complete and utter pain! Got there in the end without removing the glass or frames.
And the doors close so sweetly now - result!

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Overhauled the pedal box today. Clutch pedal was clicking, so new springs all lubed reassembled and refitted.

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Hello Lesio,
One of my future projects is to install a twin brake system similar to yours. I have two questions.

  1. Have you installed a second vacuum brake booster.
  2. What is the diameter of the master cylinder.
    James Deane

No extra booster, I left rear brakes as a non-boosted circuit.
My new calipers added piston surface to rear brakes, so I was hoping boosting only front would maybe compensate for that brak balance alteration.
The Lexus master I used is a 3/4 inch dia., same as original Dunlop pump.

Thanks for the reply. When you get your car running again would you please reply to me as to the outcome of your brake update. I hope to learn from you for my upgrade.

Hello Paul,
I replaced my A/F adjusting screws with #6 - 40TPI socket head cap screws and use a long Allen key to adjust the mixture. I install all three needle in their dashpots and adjust their length with a vernier. I then set all the jets 1mm below their bridges, again using a vernier.
I then adjust all three A/F screws the same amount and tune to achieve the smoothest idle