That’s funny, I spotted that too; but decided not to say anything. I’ve got the same thing going on with one if my Series III XJ6’s; and limited adjustment due to corrosion. There’s a big Jag Autojumble in the England someplace this fall. I guess it’s pretty spectacular. I’m trying to get my life together so I can go.
Cheers!
Mark
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The oil consumption would be excessive, David - even given the conditions…
However, as Carl says; if you top up to the ‘full’ mark, the xk will use a quart in a jiffy. Ie, don’t try to keep the oil at the ‘full’ mark, it’s a waste of money, and will just soot up the engine. There is plenty of oil in there…
How did you detect (and fix) the coolant leak? With increased coolant temps, more coolant is expelled the usual way…
Fran k
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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This is a sign of bore/ring wear more than valve gear sealing. The more worrying thing is that you say oil pressure drops when the front goes down (braking or downhill?) if you don’t top up the ‘missing’ litre but this should definitely not happen with > 6L in the sump. Too much oil can cause foaming and pressure drop in extremis.
Frank, it dribbled. The coolant ran down the hose that enters the tube where the transmission cooler is in - I had the hose because I bought the whole set when the hose on the other side had developed a leak. Back then the weather was horrific so I only changed that one, and recently did the top ones only while cleaning up. They swell and then develop hairline cracks. I am that lucky!
Strange - absolutely no corrosion visible on my bolts…
David
Are you implying that I could run too much oil? But that would mean that my measuring method is extremely far off and that would be strange. If anything there is not enough inside. Bore wear for sure.
David
If you have drained and measured, probably not. However, if your tube and/or dipstick are damaged then it may be possible it skids over the sump baffle instead of entering the small hole. In such cases, the level can read low and owners over-fill by a significant volume. If the crsnk strikes the oil it foams and bad things happen to bearings…
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Indeed, David - the system is pressurised to some 15 psi, and in some cases leaks only occur under pressure. Like at loose hose clamps - or indeed cracking hoses…
As an aside; with enough coolant loss; the dash gauge sensor looses contact with coolant - and reads coolant rail air temp. Remaining constant, the driver may be unaware of coolant loss until the engine starts loosing power just before it seizes. So you are right in being hose alerted…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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In that case I’m probably good. I put a groove on my interim rod that is located where the original would be flush with the block (think E-Type dipstick). I know that the groove is in the right depth because I measure at every oil fill and it seems right. Also I imagine that if the oil foams either something would be happening to the oil pressure or a refill of a quart would not help. The quart always helps! Others have reported same. One explanation I have read from somewhere is that the suction tube to the oil pump has a small leak. But I have never had a look at an XK bottom end. Thank you for the headsup and explanation.
Frank, I know that from experience (BMW, same hill, when I just had my license. The hot water finally reached the sensor for a second and the needle swung into the red).
High oil consumption or not, compared to @MartinScherz ‘ E it is moderate. In his case it is rings and all the seals, to be rebuilt soon. I’m looking forward to it. If I still have mine after that I can use that experience (and help) 
Maybe the consumption fixes itself someday… when it’s empty. Let’s not hope for that.
My indicators, by the way, also have a self-fixing tendency…
David
PS.- Arguably, when I give it hell it does leave smoke. But only visible in headlights at night. I assume this is rings plus enrichment at full throttle.
Hah…I understand.
Yes, milling the ribs off is hardcore.
No coming back from that.
It would be tremendous amount of work.
I find painting these things alone a lot of work. Restoring the air cleaner box properly really took a heck of a lot of time and effort. Dents, filling, old paint removal, finish, etc.
I’m basically going to do this.
One tinkers so often on these I’m tired of worrying about scratching the black paint every time i remove cam covers.
Belongs to a fellow in the forum who’s been very helpful and kind.
I’m not going to mention name as it was a pm and out of respect for discretion…but had to show ya.
My motivator…just perfect.
Wow! That ‘s lovely. How’s the triple SU’s working out? Or is it still a work in progress? What’s in the pictures looks great! Is that an intake from a 420? I do like your cam covers. I will agree the machined “Jaguar looks much better than the sticker. The cam covers were truly a score.
Ouch on that one. that is how I lost the 4.2 in my car circa 2002!!!
Carl
Not my car as said…unfortunately.
The SU carbs would be a dream.
Yes, looks like 420/X intake no doubt.
Anyway, yes, really like the polished look.
Harkens the earlier models i feel.
Sorry, I missed that about not your car. I too like the polished look, but I have too many XJ’s that need attention. Ugh.
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Verizon Wireless 4G LTE network.
Almost forgot about the pictures. Here goes one…
The acorn nuts have not changed in colour or shine after touchup. In the last picture you can see the plugged dipstick hole and the sad remnants of a microfiber cloth from refilling last Saturday. I relocated the injection wiring when I painted the rail, one head stud leaks a small amount that you can only hear when the heat is rising after shutdown. It is the one that can’t be torqued sadly. Apart from that everything is in good shape, when I compare it to the first picture I ever made (as blurry as Marks when I find it, but looking worse). Apart from the also relocated coil everything is original for the most part but for the positions of the struts and various bits and bobs. I want to make a ignition lead holder in the next weeks, D Type style.
How do yours look?
All the best, David
Very late edit, @MLee I found a before picture…
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Several possible factors, David…
One already mentioned mentioned by others; with leaking inlet valve seals oil accumulates and is burnt off as you floor it - grey smoke. And indeed the acceleration enrichment being too generous - black smoke.
Worn rings is certainly a possibility, it will explain the high oil consumption. A compression test, ‘dry’ and wet’ may reveal something…?
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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Both highly possible, both explored thoroughly.
Valve seals would smoke slightly after overrun. But they only do it once after standing and when cold, and not when I take it slow.
Rings would maybe produce a lot of blowby, possible but I don’t see a gusher of vapors from the crankcase when opening the throttle, and more importantly I have done a compression test.
Good consistent results dry. We omitted the wet test as the values were so satisfying. But I will look into bore glazing, as the physics of it are not yet clear to me.
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Indeed, that would be as described for leaking inlet valve stem seals, David…
If so, it is not really critical - while the seals should routinely be replaced when the head is off anyway. Changing the seals without removing the head is perfectly possible, but requires some work…
An additional task; check and clean the crankcase venting system - without venting the crankcase pressure will rise and will increase oil consumption…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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CV system is unclogged and clean as a whistle, Frank. Exhaust valves might be the culprit then, is there any way I could figure out? Not that I care deeply. Not that I don’t want to know.
Here’s a couple of ways I’ve taken a peek at the condition of the internals. exhaust valves. pull the plugs and position a cyl on the exhaust stroke, pop a bore scope down the spark plug hole. most cameras have a little mirror accessory that allows reverse and right angle viewing.
Carbon build up can be examined by taking the air pump off, and look down the holes on the intake side of the head. again bore scope. if there’s excessive build up, once you get the air pump plumbing off the head; and the holes are clogged, then there’s something going on. valves are running too rich. I’ve taken a 1/8NPT tap, and ran it down the threads to clear the carbon off. For me, it was because I wanted the allen head brass plugs to fit flush with the surface of the head. Not so much as a preventative maintenance item.
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I doubt if the exhaust valves are involved, David - or indeed valves as such. Valve problems would show up in the compression test…
Frank
xk6 85 Sov Europe (UKNZ)
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