I’d make a gasket as well as silicone.
The surface finish on both the block and the filter housing is really smooth, I just used a smear of RTV and tightened the bolts, in retrospect I should probably have done what Wiggs recommends and nip the bolts up and tighten after the RTV has ‘set’
Okay, thanks for all your help. I’ll go this route with my mechchanic then.
Thanks a lot Gary!
So you also did the mod? Did you just use high quality rtv or did you DIY yourself a gasket?
Also, did you cut the old bolts off or did you buy new ones? if so do you know the tread size,lenght and material? My hobby mechanic is wondering if the original bolts are aluminium or steel. And he asked me to write into the forum if anyone knows the proper lenght and thread for those bolts after you do this mod. Like this they could be bought instead of needing to be cut off.
Cheers and ty for all your help
You will need to replace the bolts as the old bolts are not threaded the length of the bolt, see photo. The bolts are steel, M8 x 1.25. I used old bolts from my collection (I don’t throw stuff out!). They just happen to be allen key bolts, that isn’t important. I added washers under the heads.
No gasket, as has been mentioned by previous posters. Just generic black RTV that I think comes from the hardware store. No leaks. All operating perfectly.
The old and new bolts compared.
Clean up the face of the block.
How the filter housing looked when it was removed. The mass of silicone was not how it came from the factory, in my opinion.
Gary, ur so much help. thanks a lot!
After christmas i got back to work. Ran the car again and indeed the big mess comes from under the oil filter housing. So good news, its not an engine out job!
I hope tomorrow i can remove the oil filter and then the housing.
The engine definitely need a good wash after that… There is soo much oil below it dripping everywhere now Maybe I’ll spray some petrol on everything down there.
Thanks again Gary for your pics. without them i’d never had the courage to start working on such a leak.
Today i removed the part sucessfully.
Right now the Oil cooler part is still in the engine, hanging in there loosely from below.
My question is how can i remove it as easily as possible.
Is it posible to cut the oil cooler lines at the rubberized part?
update: i managed to pull the steel wires out from the rectangular thing.
Then i went under the car and simply cut the plastic oil cooler lines close to the actual cooler. this was i managed to pull most of the tbing out and i can continue with the oil cooler delete.
Of course i have to remove the actual oil cooler as well, but I dont have the time right now and im not sure how to remove it properly.
So far im happy. now i need lots of cleaning, sadly its still winter and i cannot turn on the water yet… maybe soon in 2-3 weeks
Change the oil pressure sender while you’re in there to save headaches later!
okay, where is the oil pressure sender?
The oil pressure sender is screwed into the engine block, it is located quite high up behind the inlet manifold. It is not easy to see it and quite awkward to access, you either need a crow’s foot type wrench or a purpose home made wrench to remove it.
I put everything together today with a high quality silicone sealant (liqui moly)
The car is now not leaking anymore and even the oil pressure seems to be better!
Thank you all for your help here. I even managed to do it on my own without a mechanic! Im stoked