Two wires going to it, two metal lines (brake?) going to it, has rubber cap on top that says Tudor. Up behind throttle pedestal. I’d like to undo one of the metal lines to move some wiring, but don’t know what’s in it.
Thanks
The picture shows the infamous oil pressure sender.
There are no brake lines in the vee of the V12
Greg,
Beneath the rubber cap you will find your oil pressure sender that provides oil pressure readings to your dash oil pressure gauge. It has a White-Brown wire. Next to it is the small conical shaped oil pressure switch that turns on the oil pressure warning light when there is no oil pressure or it is very low. The switch has a Black-Brown wire.
Metal lines? Pethaps you have mistaken the two sleeved wires for the oil pressure sensors for metal lines?
Paul
Interesting picture. There is no rubber cap on my OP sending unit.I wonder if that means a PO has replaced the sending unit? Hope so!
Looks like the plumbing for the air injection has been removed too.
Greg- while everything is so accessible you might take a look at the wiring coming from the ignition amp- that would be the shielded coax that can cause trouble.
Dave.
Thanks! There are def two metal tubes going to it, but that explains it, they must be oil lines. Should be a simple pressure fitting I can remove and reattach. I took out air pump over the weekend, so much room! I will check wires, thanks. I am going to install elec fuel pressure sender, is an extra port nearby?
Hmmm, looks like the metal connections are not serviceable. What I’m trying to do is raise the wiring, which I’ve done with injector harness. But see that little wire behind metal line? Im guessing that goes to auto trans. If I could get that above metal oil line, I could raise wiring.
I have not had to mess with the lines you show on my own car, but I suspect that they are for lubing the cams, and you might not want to disturb them. You need a better expert here!
I think I read that there is another fitting where you could tie in another sending unit. Whatever you do, don’t break that oil “manifold”.
I misread your last post. Fuel pressure sender, not oil. No. Most popular idea is a tee fitting tied into the line from the fuel rail to the “B” bank regulator.
Dave,
There was no rubber cap on the Oil Pressure sender in my wife’s 1990 XJ-S convertible (5.3L V12 with Marelli ignition) when I cleaned up the engine bay a coup k e of years ago, but there was one that looked just like the one in Greg’s picture in my Series III 1990 V12 Vanden Plas saloon (5.3 L V12 with Lucas ignition). I am the fourth or fifth owner of both cars so I have no idea if the rubber cap or evenbtge oil pressure senders were original or not.
Paul
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These are oil feed pipes that go to each valve cam.
Ahh , thanks I will NOT be touching that
Actually, you should be touching that. As explained in the Book, banjo bolts #4 in this diagram are defective, the cross hole is drilled too close to the head. The result is restricted oil flow to the cams and tappets. You should remove those two banjo bolts, modify the cross hole as described in the Book, then reinstall with new copper washers #5. Even better: Replace those banjo bolts with longer, as those barely catch any threads in the soft aluminum tappet block.
And while you’re at it, you might want to do the same mod to the banjo bolt on top of the radiator.
Ok thanks. I will put that on the list.
You can contact me for upgraded banjo bolts if you decide to replace those. I produce them in small lots in my free time.
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is this something I can do with the engine in place, and without removing the throttle pedestal?
You can do it with the engine in place, but you definitely have to remove the throttle pedestal.
Not a hard job though, don’t mix the butterfly rods though…
And if you remove the rail even better, and then maybe a good chance to change you fuel injector hoses ?
Aristides
Sounds good. And what will this mod achieve? Better lubrication in top of motor, correct?
Yes, better camshaft lubrication and less oil leaks. Original setup uses paper-thin copper washers that don’t seal well. It is impossible to use thicker washers with original bolts because cross-drilled holes are already off-centre. Using thicker washers with original bolts might block oil flow completely.
Not trying to butt in here but have any of you guys tried replacing the copper washers with stat o seals? I’ve replaced all copper washers on my TR6 and they have held up for at least 8 years now.
We use them to build aircraft wings and seal very well. AVailable at McMaster in SAE and metric sizes.
Gordon