What I’m hoping this will become is a casual list of the most challenging jobs on our cars. Once a topic is listed please resist the temptation to do a deep dive on any particular topic - rather, let’s Re-Link to previous threads that provide the detail on your topic.
I’ll start - installing/adjusting torsion bars seems to be frequently discussed, with a new thread occurring lately. There have been MANY discussions of this topic - with some ‘sub-discussions’ (like waiting to install the reaction until after the engine is in) - but here is one of the MANY links on this topic:
Well, having rebuilt the entire tub and bonnet of my '62 and then rebuilt every single mechanical part I guess I’m qualified to speak with a bit of authority on the subject.
The mechanical work was mostly straightforward and satisfying to do and nothing stands out as being especially problematic, just a lot of work. Re the torsion bars mentioned already, I re-installed them the way I took them off having marked all the spline positions.
The most difficult and time consuming job of the whole restoration was fitting the new body panels and getting them lined up and welded in properly so the car would end up being straight.
As for working on the car later, during the years I had it on the road, I changed shocks, driveshaft U/Js, the starter, did a valve seal mod and ring job (to correct what I’d done wrong the first time) changed all the hoses and other routine maintenance. No real problems.
But the most aggravating job I remember was changing the handbrake pads in situ with the car on jackstands. Probably a lot easier if one has a lift.)
One other thing that came to mind was researching the proper metal prep and paint materials and techniques…but that’s all changed now because much of the materials are no longer available.
Replacing those windshield spray nozzles…I have not been able to do it yet. I have big hands and I don’t want to take the wiper mechanism apart. Really…WTF… two little F…cken nozzles and you cant just screw in or off. No way to get to the under side to unscrew the darn thing off. If anyone lives near me …I will pay you to do it. I tried once and gave up.
Can you feel my frustration and anger…can you…can you???
Abe
Abe,
Stick two hoses through the top holes and one through the fire wall. Joint them with a T inside and pull the ends out in order to tighten the hoses inside. Check that the hose is not tangled up in the wiper works. Fit the hose ends into the nozzles outside the car and then press hose+ nozzle back into the body.
Regards
Chris
PM me if you dont understand
I have not had to play with torsion bars or heater tubes yet. So far my most frustrating jobs have been rear brakes (especially the fork for the parking brake pads) and replacing a broken hatch release cable and then getting it adjusted so the hatch would close well and have acceptable gap alignment.
I’m nearing the end of the seven year process and the installation of the interior easily tops my list. Getting the sequence correct, cutting, trimming, fabricating, …nasty glue…nasty glue removal chemicals, fitting, refitting, re-refitting, standing on your head for days…crap all over an already cluttered work space…endless nits. Makes me long for setting torsion bars or setting valve clearances, stripping paint…
Hi , certainly the torsion bars are a pain, however my biggest pain in the butt was reattaching the parking mechanism for the wipers. There is a clip that took me 3 days to figure out how to reattach it after losing one clip in the never never land of the space under the dash center and foot well. This area is inaccessible to magnets on a string or any visualization with mirrors.
Regards,
Allen
Fitting a kaleidoscopic propshaft so you can change the clutch without having to remove the bellhousing on ANY etype. It also reverses the polarity of the neutron flow, just to be on the safe side.
Fitting the setscrew through the forward-outboard fuel tank mount. Only took me 45 minutes after it took me 25.5 hours trying and before I figured out the angle of the setscrew through the tank bushes had to be very close to the angle needed to engage the threads in the captive nut. Ouch! The chewed up finger tips!
