What Parts should I pull of a Carb V12 motor if I have to scrap it?

I have 2 x V12 engines from S2 XJ12.

Its possible or even likely they will have to go to the scrap metal yard

What Parts should I take off for re-sale ?

I presume the distributor would be one

Oil pumps: new ones are in excess of UD$2100.

Cam sprockets… what else, @Craig_Balzer?

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There are a lot of people interested in pre-H.E.'s. Just wait a minute or two, somebody will probably volunteer to take the entire engines off your hands.

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I am in Australia

One is in front of a 5 speed Supra gearbox kit, and was my daily driver for at least 5 years

I certainly dont want to throw that out !

suits any V12, was in an XJS previously, and at least one guy on this forum had one in an E-type

havent heard from him for a while, but I do remember his name, as it is similar to a very famous porn star from back in the day :grinning:

his name doesnt come up on the @ symbol Jon Holmes

If you decide to part out the one engine I would reckon these parts will be of use to a Jag-Lover:
NLA = No Longer Available
Prices taken from SNG Barratt 04FEB22

Distributor (as you already said) (British Vacuum Unit in NH will rebuild (all new bushings, bearing, et al), new cap, and install vacuum advance for ~$250
Ignition Amplifier
Ballast Resistor Pack

Air Filter Housings and Trumpets - NLA (can be pricey – I’ve seen on eBay for couple hundred $$)
4x Intake Manifolds
4x Induction Housings (NLA) or
2x carbs on a pair of Induction Housings
4x carbs or
2x carbs still connected to a pair of intake manifolds
Any combination of the above
fuel anti-return valve (just forward of driver’s side pair of carbs) $34 new
All the steel lines (fuel, air balance, small, thick, etc) bridging over the block between the carbs and intakes - many/several are NLA
Throttle pedestal and 2x long and 2x short throttle linkage arms (NLA) with pivots
2x steel T-fitting nestled between each pair of carbs. The long arm of the tee is barbed; the 2 short arms are smooth. $44 new

2x front thermostat housings
2x rear water rail housings (NLA) or not available on-line

A/C Compressor
A/C Compressor mounts
A/C Belt Idler

Alternator (new and refurbished - $350-500; still need a core though)
Voltage Regulator
The 5-6 relays (which may not be present on block; may have stayed with car)

Oil Pan (if engine is out of E-Type, nice return ($$), if for XJS, plenty around)
Oil Pan bolts
Oil Cooler (NLA but aftermarket) and 2x elbows ($135 for after market) (flows the coolant thru itself thereby reducing oil temp by 20°C while raising coolant temp by 2°C) NLA but after market available
Oil Cleaner Assy (holds oil filter) aftermarket available
Oil Feed Pipe - also takes oil pressure sender; if the feed for the block is behind LR exhaust manifold, not so nice, if the feed for the block is below and behind the throttle pedestal, if have something NLA
Dip Stick and housing tube

Water Pump (rebuild kits available but need core)
Water Pump Bolts
Water Pump Pulley

Cam Covers (if they have the cast-in “Jaguar” just behind the timing chain “bumps” = ~$350-400 for the pair; otherwise, ~$100 for the pair)
ConRods NLA
ConRod Bolts/12-point Nuts (I have found 1 source for new ConRod Bolts at ~$28 each)
Crankshaft - used $260; aftermarket new $5,250
Crankshaft Pulley - NLA
Crankshaft spacer NLA /oil pump drive gear ~$90 new
Crankshaft Sprocket (if not worn)
Jackshaft Sprocket (if not worn)
Harmonic Balancer (even if it needs rebuild, you’d need the core; Damper Doctor charges $350 for rebuild)
Tappet Blocks
Head studs - 26 on each head; 52 total
Cam Sprockets (if not worn)
Short Block
Timing Chain Cover

Exhaust manifolds (new are ~$275 - if not cracked used are just fine)
Exhaust manifold shields



I have a similar situation with an early v12 bottom end I would like to see go away. It had an expensive overhaul by a shop of unknown ability. When I took the heads off and sold them they were good. If someone is in the Atlanta/ Charlotte area it might be of interest. It’s from a '75 XJ12, not a later H.E.

I knew you’d have a comprehensive list!

It’s his Christmas Santa List!!! Ho Ho Ho…

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Thanks very much for all that Craig

How practical is it to attempt to remove the head studs by double nutting ?

Years ago, both myself and a pro Jag mechanic could not get the head off a V12

He derided my suggestion of removing the head by doing this, said you couldnt get the studs out that way.

I have done it plenty of times with the XJ6 engines

He ended up slicing & dicing it with an angle grinder, and replaced it with another used head (which evidently were available then)

weird thing is, I needed it done due to a bent valve.

When the job was done, the valve on the exact same place was still bent. He brushed me, and said it would “settle”, when it did not, he charged me to do the job again. That was the last time I ever went to a “Jag” mechanic, he had 30 hears Jag experience, but I think he somehow f*(&%d up & lied to me , and ripped me off

We may have a plate tool in our Jag club to help with the V12 heads, but we may not, I will have to check

Your concerns about removing the heads are well founded. No one can answer the question of how practical this approach is. There are way too many variables to make any sort of estimate: age of the engine, previous tear downs, miles on the heads/engine, frequency of oil changes, frequency/timing of coolant replacement, ad nauseum. As you likely know, the biggest challenge is working the heads up and off the 26 studs.

Extracting the studs can also be problematic - aside from the challenge of extracting 52 studs, galling can require repair of a/some/many stud hole(s) to make the block of value to someone.

If you should choose to proceed in removing the heads, there are plates that make the process much easier, as you say your club may have. I used a plate tool to remove my heads; borrowed it from JCNA.

So – it depends on your comfort level with risk vs gain. Your options are

  • remove the heads and studs to sell them separately
  • remove the heads to sell them separately and leave the studs alone (in the block)
  • leave the heads in place and include them with the sale of the (short) block and let the new owner deal with it/them

I think the best option for all concerned is to sell the block in one piece - you get a fair price and the buyer gets a (near) complete engine.
If you decide to part it out, you may get more money but you end up spending a lot of your time dealing
with multiple buyers; and you will likely end up with a handful of unsold bits and pieces.

Good Luck with it all

I’ll say it a bit more simply: if the studs are not badly corroded, and they are not damaged, don’t even try to remove them.

Well good and bad news on the VDP DDS…put it up on the local Facebook Marketplace, and began receiving offers within 5 minutes, the second guy that contacted me was building a Ferrari replica, we haggled a bit, and I agreed to a sale for near my advertised ask, he transferred the money immediately .

Within an hour, I was deluged by offers, some up to twice the agreed sale price.

Unfortunately, I consider myself honourable, so stuck with the initial deal

The interest seemed to be mainly in the Supra conversion, as I suspected

Now what to do with the remaining V12 engine !

I did advertise it all here on the classifieds first

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I just noticed this thread

[v12-engine] Head studs

which to my mind is strongly suggestive of trying to double nut the head studs, cant see what you have to loose if the alternative is overtorquing the head studs to rip the block studs out,

I suppose one or more might snap, but that would be the time for re-appraisal

I suspect I would get offered ~$A500 for the whole engine,
so if I can get the heads off, the bits would be worth several times that.

I havent decided what to do yet, if we have the special head removing plate, I will try that first

I will consult with our Jag Club V12 gurus on the matter