My 120FHC is being fully restored and one item to complete is what to do with the original chassis plate. My options are
Any thoughts?
Regards, Graham
Its in good original condition.
Plan A - Leave it that way.
Plan B – if you work out how to repaint the black background paint – PROPERLY – and I mean thinness of paint and a period semi-gloss colour, and not a thick glossy black, then, restore it.
There is no plan C – DO NOT make/fit a replica plate
Roger
Email: rogerpayne@bigblue.net.au
agree with roger
but given the great condition it will restore beautifully
remove old paint non abrasive system and very lightly clean all high points with 4 0000 grade wire wool
use 3m invisible tape on surround strip and over number panels
lightly paint several coats automotive black and build up paint
carefully remove tape and then use 1000 grade paper to carefully remove paint from all the high points ie lines and words.
I have done a few
probably 5-6 hours work!
I would add, Wrap the wet and dry around a very flat block , I find ground lathe tool steel makes an excellent block and will help keep only the tops of the letters having paint removed.
And make sure the paint is completely dry and hardened first.
Given it’s fine condition I’d be inclined to a light cleaning - leaving the surface vertigris - followed by a light coat of clear. Preserve it. As is it’s part of the car’s history.
I would clean it and refit.
To clean it:
Make a solution of warm soapy water with some Ammonia added. (The Ammonia helps remove the tarnish).
Cut a 1" brush to about 3/4" exposed bristles, then scrub gently with the solution above…
Rinse and dry.
Touch up the paint (get the right paint, not sure what it is, probably enamel like Humbrol used to sell for modelmaking).
When the paint has thoroughly cured blend it with some polishing compound (Pumice solution cut down to a suitable grade).
Once it’s dead right give it a wipe with a gun oil like Ballistol.
(This is more or less how I do clock parts when I want to keep the original finish/polish)
On my 120 fhc the plate was in a similar condition as yours and I just cleaned it up and installed it. When I restore a car I like to keep one part in original unrestored condition. The data plate has great patina to remind you (and others) that the otherwise “new and shiny car” is indeed 60 years old.
Cliff
Thanks all.
I have taken the advice provided on board. I will post a photo once the plate is prepared and fitted.
Cheers, Graham.
I would agree entirely. I’m a real newcomer here, but I’ve restored a lot of cars over the years and the chassis plate, commission plate, engine plate or even a Mustang’s door tag are important parts of the car’s history which I would never touch. I’d give it a careful clean with warm soapy water and leave it at that. In my view, if a car has survived for 50 or 60 years, its identity marker is one part that should wear its age with pride.
I also suspect that with the current trend in car values towards provenance, originality and ‘patina’, a shiny new plate (or even a polished-up old one) will not be quite as desirable as it would have been 10 years ago.
Roger
I agree as well. JCNA judging does as well. There is no Concours deduction for plate condition.
As per Pat’s comment, and more relevant to Graham’s Australian situation, I actually wrote this part of the Australian ACJC Concours Rules/ Entry Requirements.
An original ID plate if present does not get judged for condition as a deliberate initiative to encourage restorers to keep their original ID plate ‘as-is’ and not feel any need to restore it, albeit if restored they don’t loose anything nor gain anything regardless of how well or otherwise its restored. Albeit if restored with a non-original finish you run the risk of a Judge mistakenly thinking it is a reproduction, and we do deliberately have a whole raft of additional ‘pre-entry’ requirements for reproduction ID plates re PROVING all numbers stamped on are correct/original for the car being presented for judging.
So a very deliberate policy to discourage reproduction plates totally, but leaving a difficult window open if someone has genuinely LOST their original ID plate, and indeed discourages, by not rewarding restored original plates. Some owners however want to restore their original plates, so that’s a personal preference, but personally (and as a Concours Judge) I always prefer to see untouched (cleaned only) original ID plate, regardless of its condition, so one in good original condition is a major bonus. although no extra points!
I agree: minimal preservation technique.
Graham, I’d also suggest that it’s probably not the best idea to post a photo of your chassis plate. Call me paranoid, but…
I attempted to proceed with absolute caution and tried various methods suggested. As things do I got drawn in further and further until…
For better or for worse here it now is.
Wow! Well done.
How long did it take?
5-6 hours not all at once
graham perfect job 9.99999 out of 10
Where do you want me to send half a dozen more!
1 million times better than repro and a thousdand times better than one just cleaned.
Keen to hear any departures you made from my instructions above or any new tips?
regards terry
I am now accepting bids for Graham’s postal address.
Was about a dozen attempts over 3 days with 1200 wet and dry under a running tap after spray painting it completely. I did mask the stamping and the outer border to reduce cleanup time.
First 11 attempts I would get 90 % done then stuff it up and start over again.
Cheers
Jordy’s IPhone
That will certainly drive the bid price for your postal address up.
If you can match, or beat, the highest bidder then your secret is safe.
don’t worry I know where Graham lives lovely view from the deck overlooking the bay.
I have spent a great day with graham looking at some of his other projects and jaguar collectibles
