#1 and #6 should move together on an inline 6, so you can look at the piston at either end.
You have done the right thing by adding a provisional TDC mark on the damper, Mark, and no move the crankshaft position - until this is sorted. Your notion of 90 degrees may be at fault - using the cam alignment tool would relieve my anxietyā¦
The most likely explanation is that the cam chain was installed with the cams correctly aligned, but the crankshaft in the wrong position - either deliberately or by mischance. Or for that matter; with the crankshaft correctly at TDC, but the cams misaligned - weird. In either of those cases; the valve timing is wrong - and valve damage may ensue. This must(!) be sorted before proceedingā¦
However, there is also the possibility that the crankshaft damper is loose/displaced. Try forcibly to move the damper - without crankshaft turning. If damper does move independently itās ādelaminatedā and must be replaced. Also check if the pointer itself is loose/bent.
As the scale on the the damper is used for ignition timing it is of some pertinence to get the pointer aligned to the dampers TDC mark.
Using the #6 at verified TDC would position the crankshaft correctly - and with the cams properly set itās OKā¦so far. When the head is placed; #6 automatically become the āreferenceā cylinder, ready to fire - and the rotor should point to #6 cylinder.
However; you must clarify the points mentioned - there is something amissā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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If 6 (and 1) are at TDC, the notches at 90Ā°, the engine is fine.
You will need a new damper, but theoretically you can start it and even drive.
The worry is that the damper falls apart.
Internally, the engine should be fine. What is the valve damage from?
yes
close to the radiator
Thanks, I have yet to clean up the tops of all the piston heads to see if there is damage on number 3 piston.I have looked some but see no damage. I am happy with the idea that the damper was either installed incorrectly, or has moved out of place somehow.I am unsure if it is designed with being keyed where it should not move out of place. What a mind bender for me though!
thanks Frank, what do you mean by delaminated I wonder? When I removed the head, #1, and#6 are at top dead center, and the rotor in the distributor is at #6 sparkplug lead on the distributor cap. And how do I stop the crankshaft to remove the damper? One thing, the starter is removed
The damper consists of two parts bonded together by rubber. The inner part is keyed to the crankshaft and the outer acts as the damping mass - if the rubber ages it can debond and the outer then slips. No worry, it canāt be misaligned, but you should source another damper. If it ever fell apart you would be in for some damage.
The bolt is 33mm or whatever this translates to, and you have to remove the other pulley first. Good whack or use the starter to loosen the bolt.
Iād rather remove the camshafts and put some gasoline into the combustion chambers if the head is off already. If there is valve damage it will definitely show. Donāt clean the pistons with anything (!) that can cause damage to the bores and rings!
ā¦1 5/16".
I am so glad I came on this forum, you people are very helpful to me at a time of confusion with one thing ,or another. Thank you for your advise from your experience.
I have used parts cleaner on an old tshirt to clean with. What liquid will damage the bores and rings I wonder now?
Youāre absolutely welcome!
Iām talking about abrasives. Liquid wonāt do much harm, as long as they donāt rust so spray some WD-40 or similar on there afterwards. You will have some deposits in there though. I didnāt care much about them when my head was off but my engine is clapped out- it still runs!
Find a damper first before removing the nut.
Paul, no! Itās Ā¾ Whitworthā¦ 
right on. I wasnāt sure if it was eighths or 16sā¦ 1 5/16 it is.
Itās BOTH!!! 
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Clapped out? what does that mean?
My engine has head studs in terrible condition, 5 ones broke off, had to be repaired in a way that wonāt last (two were already repaired that way) and it has seen a low quality overhaul (including rebore) before it stood for a while. If anything else goes wrong a donor engine will go in and the block will become scrap or a coffee table. Same applies to the head. So I did not worry, made it work, look nice and tried to figure out how much abuse it can take. The answer is, a lot. The studs just snapped and pulled out, thankfully not your problem. The rest of the studs is still threaded into the blockā¦ new shorter studs threaded into an insert into the surface of the block still work, after about 10k km. Barely.
Nevertheless I made sure that I got most of the dust out and never use sand paper, careful with wire brushes.
Anyways, thatās what I meant with clapped out.
Thanks for the pics, wow! how do you get everything in the engine bay so clean? My sisters car engine area is oily, greasy bad. I am trying degreaser somewhat.And how do I put pics on this forum from my cell phone please?
Just find the Symbol with the arrow in the top of the field in which you type. If you have any issues with the uploadā¦ How do I: Add pictures to a post?
I use brake cleaner and a wool rag also goes a long way. Thank you. I like it clean.
This was how it went together and how it still looks. There are cleaner engines and more original ones but to me this is nice enough. It used to be very sad and rusty, I think I spent too much time on the exterior of the engine. But I enjoy that the most, and it is quick work.
That is very nice, a credit to your hard work over time.
I will attempt to remove the damper this coming weekend. I am in the electrical field of work.commercial,and residential. I work out of town often.Now ,for over a year. So, I stay in hotels, the company pays for the room cost. Thanks again, I will go sleep now. I hope to give updates of real progress on the Jaguar 4.2l.
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David fully explained the damper, Markā¦
With #6 and #1 at TDC the pointer should align with damper ā0ā - of not; the damper is adrift, for whatever reason, but delamination is the likely cause. Pulleys are bolted to the damper, and Woodruff keys fix the damper assembly, sprocket gear and oil pump drive gear to the crankshaft.
If the PO used the displaced damper to set the cam timing; valve damage is a forgone conclusion if the offset was large enough. You have of course absolutely verified that the #6 piston is really at maximum travel - and the degrees of damper offset. While you have confirmed damage only to one valve; did you carefully check the other valves as well? You would be lucky if only one valve is affectedā¦
The standard test is to roll the valve stems on a flat surface while watching for valve head wobble - any wobble means that the valve(s) must be replaced. And valves, old and new, should be be lapped in as a matter of routineā¦
With dist rotor pointing to #6 - at least you are near the correct TDCā¦
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
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That is kind of the question here.
The damper will put up a little fight, protect the radiator. Wedges and a hammer help.
Radiator is out of the vehicle ,condenser moved gently out of the way. I hope to remove the damper this weekend to check its condition.Jaguar Heaven in California,has a good used damper for $150. They dismantle for good parts,thats their game.I also was referred to Engels in Michigan for upper end, gasket set. They claimed Payen is the popular brand they sell.is this a good choice to accept ? help?
Also, how would I stop the crankshaft from moving, while I give it a try ,to remove the pulley big bolt ,33mm,or 15/16ths? The same?